Newb Questions

[A_Spruce]

Hey guys,

A quick introduction: I bought an 03 Suburban back in February with 144,000 miles on her. She was generally well kept and had good bones, she just needed some TLC to bring her back into top shape. Took her immediately to the shop I've used for the past 25 years to have them do a nose to toes inspection and change all the fluids. After less than stellar attention to detail from the shop, I'm back to doing minor maintenance and repairs for myself, which has brought me here.

Since this is the filter forum, I'll start with filter questions. I stopped using Fram filters back in the 90's when I was reading a lot of bad press about failures and problems. I never had a problem with the brand prior, but didn't want to risk damaging an engine over a $5 filter. I've used AC Delco ever since, simply because it's the OEM brand for the GM vehicles I have driven for the past 25 years.

The 03 Burb manual calls for a PF44, which has apparently been superseded by the PF46 and that has now become the PF46E. Seems to be a flip of a coin whether you guys like the E-core or not? This is an observation, not an attempt to rehash old arguments. I am simply looking for a good quality, economical filter for a 17 year old and now 147,000 mile engine.

When I bought the Burb, she was within 1k miles of an OCI, the oil looked and smelled fine, nothing out of the ordinary for used oil. Since the OCI in February, I've put another 2500 miles on her and the oil still looks almost new. Because I don't trust what the shop put in, I will be doing the next OCI at 3000 to 3500 miles or when the vehicle oil monitor indicates, whichever comes first. I will be using synthetic oil, which will be fodder for further questions here or in the oil forum, depending on what you guys prefer.

So, to E-core or not to E-core, that is the question.

Stay with OEM or move to something else and if so, to what?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Can you still get an oem non-ecore at the dealership? If so,that's what I would do.

 

[ZeeOSix]

What's your top 3 goals/requirements in an oil filter?

 

[TheLawnRanger]

They still sell the non-ecore at AAP for around $9. O'Reilly had them for around $5 until last fall when they were discontinued.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Fram XG 3506. Run for a few changes if you want. Fram XG filters are top notch and have nothing to do with the Fram of the 90's.

3000 to 3500 miles is way too soon in my opinion. I used 7,000 miles over the last 10 years with my 2008 3/4 ton Suburban with a 6 liter engine and I'm closing in on 200,000 miles using Synthetic 5w30.

 

[Rolla07]

Id be more focused on servicing the trans than overthinking the oil/filter.

 

[A_Spruce]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm not willing to buy from the dealership unless I absolutely have to. When I priced out brake pads the dealer was 4 or 5 times higher than any place else for the same thing.

My requirement of the oil and filter, obviously, good lubrication an engine protection are at the top of the list. I think that overall the Burb has been well cared for mechanically. Maintenance is a big deal to me because it prevents future major failures, which is why I plan to use synthetic oil from now on. IMHO, a good quality oil and filter will go a long way towards another 150K worry free miles.

I plan to extend OCI to 5000 miles after this first interval on my watch, simply because I don't know what was in it for those first 144,000 miles or what the shop put in during the OCI done last February. The OCI of my '95 Sierra was 3000 to 3500, my choice. This was a work truck that saw a lot of miles and towed frequently. The Burb won't be driven or worked like the Sierra was, so I am ok with extending OCIs a bit. Being new to synthetic oil, I have no idea what kind of OCI is recommended or what to expect and will adjust OCIs as that knowledge is gained.

As for the tranny service, I believe that this was done by the shop as I had instructed, as evidenced by fresh wrench marks on the pan bolts. I also think that shifting has improved over the past 4 months, though, that may only be that I'm getting used to how the Burb feels as she's being driven. Like I said, I'm big into maintenance, so you can bet that the tranny will see regular services as well. Not sure what the OCI is on it, but I'll probably do it again myself sometime next summer. The shop did a hap hazard job on the fluid changes, so this is something that I will be monitoring regularly and changing out myself as time and need arises.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted by Rolla07
Id be more focused on servicing the trans than overthinking the oil/filter.

This. put dex6 in it.

 

[A_Spruce]

Chris, I see you're using a different brand of oil in each rig, any particular reasoning behind that? Surely one brand has all the different weights your stable needs.

 

[joekingcorvette]

You picked a good type of vehicle combination to go the long run. Those Burbs run forever. I would just go with the Fram Ultra or Mobil 1 or K&N filter.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by A_Spruce

I plan to extend OCI to 5000 miles after this first interval on my watch, simply because I don't know what was in it for those first 144,000 miles or what the shop put in during the OCI done last February..


It's almost guaranteed to be API SN oil - just run it until it gets "dark" - it will have a good additive pack that will protect your engine.

Since the oil is new, you may as well let it do it's thing for a LITTLE while, at least.

 

[krismoriah72]

I have a 2003 Suburban with 268K miles.

To answer your question on the oil filter. The PF46 can be bought at Advance for $7.99 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/acdelco-classic-design-engine-oil-filter-pf46/5130047-P

I would not hunt this filter, just go with the FRAM 3506 TG or XG if you are doing extended drains.

Here is some of my advice on things to look at for the long haul.

1) Change your rear diff fluid if its not been done.
2) Check your fan clutch
3) Check your brake lines for rust.. (along the front frame rails).
4) Put aside about $200 for a new dash cluster at some point. (i dropped mine off at Oreillys and had it rebuilt within 48hrs).

If yours has a 5.3 then at some point you will probably develop a tick that sounds like a lifter or piston slap.. dont chase it its fine.

If you have a 5.3 remove the top engine cover and look at the fuel rail, then find the fuel pressure regulator on the side. There is a tiny vaccum hose leading to that.. in time it may crack or break or already be broken.

At your mileage you are either past due or someone has changed the spark plugs. Check to be sure they are correct with the correct gap.

Brake Pads- Raybestos EHT stop my big bus like no other pad ive tried. I have tried 4 sets of pads.

Shocks- I went with Bilstein 5100 due to my heavy towing.. but if i do it again Gabriel Ultras will be my next shock.

If you feel a weird knock in your steering wheel.. its the lube on the shaft. Look under the hood and find the steering shaft. Remove that bolt.. then jerk the shaft towards the firewall then back down then back up about 10 times then replace the bolt. It spreads the OEM grease on the shaft and you will not feel that thump in the steering wheel again.

Enjoy many more miles and trips to the gas station.

 

[Driz]

Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by Rolla07
Id be more focused on servicing the trans than overthinking the oil/filter.

This. put dex6 in it.



Yup. My buddy has a 6l 2003 2500HDthat is low miles but positively hammered as a plow truck. Still ticking along. I noticed GM went to recommending synthetic DEX 6 for those old ones , it's just better. Do those Difs , trans case while your at it and be gone with it.
Check tranny lines for signs of corrosion as those GM rust like tinfoil! Same with fuel lines Keep em clean. Theylay on that frame rail and hold the crud so flush when ya wash.

 

[Rat407]

What about just getting the Super Tech filters from Walmart? ST3675

 

[A_Spruce]

Originally Posted by krismoriah72
I have a 2003 Suburban with 268K miles.


Kris, thanks for the long and detailed reply, I'm an information junky, I like to gather a lot of data from which to base my decisions.

I've done a number of things on your list already, such as the brakes, I went with Raybestos MGD (medium grade) pads all around. The diff fluid was supposed to have been replaced by the shop, for whatever reason, the pumpkin cover was painted, so I have no way of knowing if it ever actually came off. Similarly with the brakes, I told them to go over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb, if the brakes needed doing, DO NOT flush the fluid because it would be done with the new brakes, if brakes were good, then flush the fluid. Well, I was charged for a quart of fluid and the brake pads were down to zero. When I got under and did the pads none of the bleeders had been opened and the rear bleeders were completely clogged and inoperable. It's a number of things like this that has me questioning just what was done and if any of it was done properly.

I changed the front shocks that were toast (and missed by the shop inspection) to Monroe OESpectrum, which took care of the random vibration I was having in the front end. I still need to do the rears, but at the time I needed to stop spending money on the beast until I recouped some of the purchase and improvement costs.

This is a California car so there is no rust anywhere. I looked for brake line issues when I bought her and it all looked good, but now that she sits in my driveway, a closer look certainly isn't going to hurt anything.

I don't have a knock in the steering wheel, at least I don't think so. There is a clunk when I go across speed bumps and such. I thought it was the bad front shocks, which was certainly part of it, but the clunk is still there occasionally. I'll investigate you column suggestion more closely as soon as I have the chance. There is a rubber squeak in the steering inside that drives me nuts. I'm sure it's the wheel rubbing on the plastic column or something simple that a little lube will take care of.

As for engine or drivetrain noises, the only thing that she's got is a weird vibration/rattle noise on start up if she sits for more than a day or two. Initially I suspected maybe lifters leaking down, but there is not the typical rattle or tick you get from the top of the engine. The rattle/vibration only lasts a split second between the moment the engine starts to catch and the time it's idling. It only happens on the first start of the day and only after sitting for a day or two. I plan to go over all the heat shielding.

I am also seriously thinking of changing the spark plugs. As you pointed out, they've likely never been changed. I know the 02 Sierra I've been driving since new has never had plugs put in it and it's got the same mileage as the Burb. I'm wondering if it will help with mileage a bit. The Burb love to run on the freeway, getting 17mpg, but she hates city driving and only delivers 13 or 14mpg, and I do not do rabbit start/stops or heavy accelerations unless necessary.

 

[A_Spruce]

Sorry for the long post, I tend to get wordy, especially when I'm trying to describe something for feedback.

Is it ok to be talking about general mechanics here or is it preferred to keep things specifically to filters and lubricants? I'd love to be able to chat about some of the quirks the Burb presents, such as the vibration/rattle at start up (see previous post) or simply share the process of the TLC that it's taken to bring the Burb up to snuff. Is there a different forum where these topics would be more appropriate?

 

[A_Spruce]

Originally Posted by Driz

Yup. My buddy has a 6l 2003 2500HDthat is low miles but positively hammered as a plow truck. Still ticking along. I noticed GM went to recommending synthetic DEX 6 for those old ones , it's just better. Do those Difs , trans case while your at it and be gone with it.
Check tranny lines for signs of corrosion as those GM rust like tinfoil! Same with fuel lines Keep em clean. Theylay on that frame rail and hold the crud so flush when ya wash.


I want to believe that the diff was done by the shop, but will probably do it myself this fall or next year when I have more time and ability to do it. The Burb is 2wd, thankfully. I will go over the fuel lines when I more thoroughly inspect the brake lines.

 

[A_Spruce]

Originally Posted by Rat407
What about just getting the Super Tech filters from Walmart? ST3675


Wal . . . Wa . . . waLM . . .

That word isn't in my vocabulary!

 

[A_Spruce]

Thanks, again, to everyone participating in the thread, your comments are appreciated.

 

[krismoriah72]

Diff fluid- there is a fill plug up near the middle on the side, at least check to see that its full.. while you are in there just poke your finger in and get a sample and smell if its burnt..also wipe on a clean tissue to see if it appears to be new or old.

On your front end clunk- make sure that the front shocks are installed properly with the washers and rubber dampers. (i have seen those installed incorrectly). Also there are grease zerks not sure if you or anyone has greased the front end lately.


Spark Plugs- If you still have OEM spark plugs in they were set at .60 gap.. but GM changed the gap to .40 in a GM bulletin (#03-06-04-060A) So if you pull one and the gap is .60 its probably OEM. When you go to change them go with AC Delco P/N 41-985 they are gapped at .40.

Next time you are under the vehicle look to see if the Fuel Filter has been changed.

Last but not least.. Does your Burb have a spare tire under the rear? If so you should check to see if you can release it if needed. The tool kit is hidden in a secret compartment in the back. I checked mine last year for the first time anyone has ever tried. The tool kit has a special handle that you fish thru a keyhole access in the bumper. Well the handle did not work (for me).. i gave up and luckily have a buddy that works at a GM dealership.. I took it there one day and he was laughing but in the end he could not get the tire to release either. The shop foreman gave it a try also.. so no way could the tire be released without cutting it off with a torch beside the road.

Well i remembered one more thing... you need to take a peek at your Cabin Air Filter. (there are two panels). Personally i dont like breathing anyone elses funk...so i always replace Cabin air filters when i get a new to me vehicle. The panels are on the passenger side below the glove box under a panel.




Originally Posted by A_Spruce
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
I have a 2003 Suburban with 268K miles.


Kris, thanks for the long and detailed reply, I'm an information junky, I like to gather a lot of data from which to base my decisions.

I've done a number of things on your list already, such as the brakes, I went with Raybestos MGD (medium grade) pads all around. The diff fluid was supposed to have been replaced by the shop, for whatever reason, the pumpkin cover was painted, so I have no way of knowing if it ever actually came off. Similarly with the brakes, I told them to go over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb, if the brakes needed doing, DO NOT flush the fluid because it would be done with the new brakes, if brakes were good, then flush the fluid. Well, I was charged for a quart of fluid and the brake pads were down to zero. When I got under and did the pads none of the bleeders had been opened and the rear bleeders were completely clogged and inoperable. It's a number of things like this that has me questioning just what was done and if any of it was done properly.

I changed the front shocks that were toast (and missed by the shop inspection) to Monroe OESpectrum, which took care of the random vibration I was having in the front end. I still need to do the rears, but at the time I needed to stop spending money on the beast until I recouped some of the purchase and improvement costs.

This is a California car so there is no rust anywhere. I looked for brake line issues when I bought her and it all looked good, but now that she sits in my driveway, a closer look certainly isn't going to hurt anything.

I don't have a knock in the steering wheel, at least I don't think so. There is a clunk when I go across speed bumps and such. I thought it was the bad front shocks, which was certainly part of it, but the clunk is still there occasionally. I'll investigate you column suggestion more closely as soon as I have the chance. There is a rubber squeak in the steering inside that drives me nuts. I'm sure it's the wheel rubbing on the plastic column or something simple that a little lube will take care of.

As for engine or drivetrain noises, the only thing that she's got is a weird vibration/rattle noise on start up if she sits for more than a day or two. Initially I suspected maybe lifters leaking down, but there is not the typical rattle or tick you get from the top of the engine. The rattle/vibration only lasts a split second between the moment the engine starts to catch and the time it's idling. It only happens on the first start of the day and only after sitting for a day or two. I plan to go over all the heat shielding.

I am also seriously thinking of changing the spark plugs. As you pointed out, they've likely never been changed. I know the 02 Sierra I've been driving since new has never had plugs put in it and it's got the same mileage as the Burb. I'm wondering if it will help with mileage a bit. The Burb love to run on the freeway, getting 17mpg, but she hates city driving and only delivers 13 or 14mpg, and I do not do rabbit start/stops or heavy accelerations unless necessary.