confused about what oil to use for a 1kr-fe

[mossietheno1]

The car is a Peugeot 107 I'm doing an oil change very soon as its on 12,000k, I'm looking around to see what the best oil is to use for it. the car is used everyday 5 days a week 20km-20km and once a week 400km over the other tow days. a clone to the citron c1 and the Toyota Aygo. i have been recommended by Castrol to use a magntec 5w-30 c2 if i enter the 107 or the c1 on the website and i get recommended a magntec A5 5w-30 if i enter the yaris, vitz . or any toyota. How does this work if it is the exact same engine in both cars. i have been reading from this website that describe oils that along with my heavily biased to Toyota engines is where my understanding from oils come from. I am also biased to castrol as they sponsor rallying in Ireland and there adverting about the "magnetic" oil sticking to the metal portions of the engines is stuck in my head. but i would like to talk to anyone that would be able to educate me on the matter. id love to learn more about oil in general.

 

[mossietheno1]

https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php website mentioned above

 

[Kamele0N]

Use C3 or C4 instead.....or even A3/B4...

Nowadays every car producer is pushing either LOW Saps oils (C1/C2)...or energy conserving oils (Low HTHS....C1/C2/A5)

Use 5w30....with VW 504/507 or BMW LL-04 or MB 229.51/52...they are all catalyst friendly specs....but with higher HTHS (3.5 and above)

 

[Kamele0N]

My suggestions would be....

Shell 5w30 ECT (its also VW504/507)
Mobil1 5w30 ESP (its also VW504/507)
Elf 5w30 fulltech FE (its C4)

And do normal OCI...@around 15.000kms MAX!

 

[Bjornviken]

mobil 1 0w-40

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by Bjornviken
mobil 1 0w-40


^^this^^

Castrol Magical clingy oil sure clinged for me … dipstick looked like a burnt corn dog in just 3k … did not need an UOA to see it had oxidized pushing it well above 5w20 it started as …

 

[dbias]

 

[UG_Passat]

It's a Toyota engine, so it's most likely a 5w20 or 0w20.

It's not a fancy engine, it doesn't have Toyota's D4 system, just the old mult-point fuel injection system. It doesn't need a high HTHS oil.

If you want to sleep better with a Dexos1 G2 oil, have fun.

 

[Kamele0N]

WE (Europeans) dont use/know 0w20 or 5w20 oils...

WE (Europeans) exceptionally use these oily water oils in our auxiliary vehicles...aka (EV) hybrids...

For our everyday use WE use stout PCMOs....with ACEA labels (A3/B4/C3/C4....) + holly trinity with MB-BMW-VW labels...

 

[mossietheno1]

I'm have been reading through the reply's. Thanks very much for your input. I have never since a 0w/5w-20 recommend in any Toyota engine design that isn't newer then 2012. i don't really understand why A1/2/3/4/5 oils are relevant because hasn't ever car since the 70's has a car on it so why are they still used. I'm leaning towards an Mobil 1 esp 5w-30 or a Castro magnetic c3. The other brands you mention are hard to find here. I'm a little bit curious why people are recommending a 0W-40 oil. is the engine and bearing tolerances designed for a 5w oil and the engine is on 131000km and the bearing tolerances have not got any smaller i get the high top end as i do drive it the very rear occasion i do drive it hard but i don't get the colder side change.

 

[Kamele0N]

I was confused too for a first year here...then I realized that 0w40 is far more common over there than 5w40...

 

[mossietheno1]

That would make sense doesn't get anywhere near as cold here -17C is the worse I've ever seen. normally never lower that 0.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by mossietheno1
I'm have been reading through the reply's. Thanks very much for your input. I have never since a 0w/5w-20 recommend in any Toyota engine design that isn't newer then 2012. i don't really understand why A1/2/3/4/5 oils are relevant because hasn't ever car since the 70's has a car on it so why are they still used. I'm leaning towards an Mobil 1 esp 5w-30 or a Castro magnetic c3. The other brands you mention are hard to find here. I'm a little bit curious why people are recommending a 0W-40 oil. is the engine and bearing tolerances designed for a 5w oil and the engine is on 131000km and the bearing tolerances have not got any smaller i get the high top end as i do drive it the very rear occasion i do drive it hard but i don't get the colder side change.

Smaller? 0W-40 is a 40 grade (thicker) whereas 5W-30 is a 30 grade (thinner). Engines are not "designed" for the winter rating, that is dictated by the expected starting temperatures and is not directly related to the operating viscosity.

 

[Kamele0N]

Yeah....but nontheless.....you dont want a 0W... oil in your daily beater UNLESS it is necessary because of a weather....

Lower the number before W......the thinner the (base) oil.....and you can get your bore(s) polished.....and "catch" higher oil consumption at the end....

Thats why HDEOs are usually 10W...15W....for a better protection

 

[kschachn]

Nonsense. A euro 0W-40 such as Castrol EDGE carries a plethora of demanding approvals which include wear limits and are some of the best motor oils on the planet. To say that an oil is better solely because the winter rating is inferior is ridiculous.

 

[Popsy]

Last user manual I saw for a Citroën C1 (from 2012) was recommending anything from 5W30 C3 (Total Ineo ECS) to 10W40 A3/B4 (Total Activa 7000). Dealer used the 10W40 oil when car was new, I guess to lower costs, then another dealer used the Ineo ECS (I guess because that's what they use the most because of all the diesel cars around here).

Engine was starting to have a little varnish with factory OCI when I did oil changes (car had around 60000Km at that time), I used some Petronas Syntium 7000 0W40 (wich is a thin 0W40 with MB 229.5 approval) till the car was totalled (fire).

 

[UG_Passat]

Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Yeah....but nontheless.....you dont want a 0W... oil in your daily beater UNLESS it is necessary because of a weather....

Lower the number before W......the thinner the (base) oil.....and you can get your bore(s) polished.....and "catch" higher oil consumption at the end....

Thats why HDEOs are usually 10W...15W....for a better protection


HDEO with less than Group III base stocks are usually 10W or 15W

HDEO with Group III or over base stocks are usually 5W or even 0W.

 

[UG_Passat]

Originally Posted by mossietheno1
I'm have been reading through the reply's. Thanks very much for your input. I have never since a 0w/5w-20 recommend in any Toyota engine design that isn't newer then 2012. i don't really understand why A1/2/3/4/5 oils are relevant because hasn't ever car since the 70's has a car on it so why are they still used. I'm leaning towards an Mobil 1 esp 5w-30 or a Castro magnetic c3. The other brands you mention are hard to find here. I'm a little bit curious why people are recommending a 0W-40 oil. is the engine and bearing tolerances designed for a 5w oil and the engine is on 131000km and the bearing tolerances have not got any smaller i get the high top end as i do drive it the very rear occasion i do drive it hard but i don't get the colder side change.


Then just go for a 5w30 oil. It's a Toyota engine, it does not have demanding oil requirments on oil.

You can go for the GTX 5w30 c4 if you want or the Magnatec 5w30 DX

Us Yanks, when we see a European engine topic, Mobil 1/Castrol 0w40 is the oil equivalent of General Altimax RT43 (on the wheel and tire forum), so it's the natural go to oil recommendation.

 

[mossietheno1]

I understand the logic both ways, the thicker oil 5w would provide the car with a thicker film strength when it is running cold which it does quite some time of its life not mileage wise but day to day. and your arguing that the 0w is still has high enough film strength. but why would you want to use a 0w over a 5w. I'm sorry if that is a dumb question. what is to gain by going down in oil viscosity. I see that a 0w -30 has a minimum HTHS of 3.5 does this only apply to the operating temp. not the cold weather rating

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by mossietheno1
I understand the logic both ways, the thicker oil 5w would provide the car with a thicker film strength when it is running cold which it does quite some time of its life not mileage wise but day to day. and your arguing that the 0w is still has high enough film strength. but why would you want to use a 0w over a 5w. I'm sorry if that is a dumb question. what is to gain by going down in oil viscosity. I see that a 0w -30 has a minimum HTHS of 3.5 does this only apply to the operating temp. not the cold weather rating

You have a lot of misconceptions in this statement. The 0W oil is only guaranteed to be thinner at extremely low temperatures, below -25°F. Above that it may be thicker than the 5W rated oil. Stop worrying about the winter rating as it is meaningless in this application.

Again, "5W" oil is not thicker than a 0W oil unless it is extremely cold and the winter rating is not connected to the operating viscosity. You are not going "down" in viscosity just because of the winter rating.

Although I'm beginning to suspect you may already know this.