Anyone ran with the edge 0w30 euro formula and been able to compare it to the od syntec 0w30? How do the two compare?
Castrol edge 0w30 euro formula - comparable to the old stuff?
- Thread starter SnowDrifter
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Obviously not answering your question, but why? Castrol 0W-40 is functionally equivalent in every regard and half the price.
From what I recall from years ago, they are practically the same. One is just above 12 cst (in the XW-30 range) and one is just below 13 cst (in the XW-40 range). The 0W-30 is SL rated and the 0W-40 is SN rated. From what I recall, the additive packs are similar (or the same) and the XW-40 faces different additive limits to satisfy SN. The XW-30 requirements are more strict on the additives, which is the 0W-30 is SL rated.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Obviously not answering your question, but why? Castrol 0W-40 is functionally equivalent in every regard and half the price.
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Originally Posted by Hakkinen
From what I recall from years ago, they are practically the same. One is just above 12 cst (in the XW-30 range) and one is just below 13 cst (in the XW-40 range). The 0W-30 is SL rated and the 0W-40 is SN rated. From what I recall, the additive packs are similar (or the same) and the XW-40 faces different additive limits to satisfy SN. The XW-30 requirements are more strict on the additives, which is the 0W-30 is SL rated.
The 0w30 seems to be just above 12, the 0w40 seems to be either just above, or mod 13s depending on which sheet I look at.
Obviously not answering your question, but why? Castrol 0W-40 is functionally equivalent in every regard and half the price.
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Originally Posted by Hakkinen
From what I recall from years ago, they are practically the same. One is just above 12 cst (in the XW-30 range) and one is just below 13 cst (in the XW-40 range). The 0W-30 is SL rated and the 0W-40 is SN rated. From what I recall, the additive packs are similar (or the same) and the XW-40 faces different additive limits to satisfy SN. The XW-30 requirements are more strict on the additives, which is the 0W-30 is SL rated.
The 0w30 seems to be just above 12, the 0w40 seems to be either just above, or mod 13s depending on which sheet I look at.
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Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Only on BITOG would a 0Wx be too thick for cold starts, lol.
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Only on BITOG would a 0Wx be too thick for cold starts, lol.
It will not be too thick and both will "flow" similarly, which is largely irrelevant. As was shown the operating viscosities are nearly the same at temperature.
Both are 0W rated but that too will make little difference in Washington.
Both are 0W rated but that too will make little difference in Washington.
I used the "green" GC for many years after discovering its magic properties from BITOG and now use the 0W40 from Belgium.
Both seemed to work OK.
Having said that, I've only had 2 motors blow up in my 60 years of engine use, and one was from a defective block casting on a Chevy and the other was a dropped exhaust valve on a Chinese gen set.
Both seemed to work OK.
Having said that, I've only had 2 motors blow up in my 60 years of engine use, and one was from a defective block casting on a Chevy and the other was a dropped exhaust valve on a Chinese gen set.
Originally Posted by kschachn
It will not be too thick and both will "flow" similarly, which is largely irrelevant. As was shown the operating viscosities are nearly the same at temperature.
Both are 0W rated but that too will make little difference in Washington.
Is my cold different than your cold? What about in Idaho? Or Canada? Temperature is temperature. I need it to perform down to -18f, which so far, is the coldest I've had my vehicle in.
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Only on BITOG would a 0Wx be too thick for cold starts, lol.
0w20 will be far thinner at cold temps than will a 0w30 or 0w40, hence my concerns. My rig gets short tripped a fair bit in the winter due a reluctance to travel in the snow, hence my concerns.
Originally Posted by nascarnation
I used the "green" GC for many years after discovering its magic properties from BITOG and now use the 0W40 from Belgium.
Both seemed to work OK.
Having said that, I've only had 2 motors blow up in my 60 years of engine use, and one was from a defective block casting on a Chevy and the other was a dropped exhaust valve on a Chinese gen set.
Any difficulties tracking down? Having one product line split off into minutia is doing my head in
It will not be too thick and both will "flow" similarly, which is largely irrelevant. As was shown the operating viscosities are nearly the same at temperature.
Both are 0W rated but that too will make little difference in Washington.
Is my cold different than your cold? What about in Idaho? Or Canada? Temperature is temperature. I need it to perform down to -18f, which so far, is the coldest I've had my vehicle in.
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Hadn't considered their 0w40 to be an option. Concern being that it's too thick for my application (high flow oil pump, cold starts down to - 18f). Yeah it's thicker, but would that not cut down on flow? The data sheets give different values depending on if I look at it for an individual product or as a summary. Which is right?
Only on BITOG would a 0Wx be too thick for cold starts, lol.
0w20 will be far thinner at cold temps than will a 0w30 or 0w40, hence my concerns. My rig gets short tripped a fair bit in the winter due a reluctance to travel in the snow, hence my concerns.
Originally Posted by nascarnation
I used the "green" GC for many years after discovering its magic properties from BITOG and now use the 0W40 from Belgium.
Both seemed to work OK.
Having said that, I've only had 2 motors blow up in my 60 years of engine use, and one was from a defective block casting on a Chevy and the other was a dropped exhaust valve on a Chinese gen set.
Any difficulties tracking down? Having one product line split off into minutia is doing my head in
You are a far braver man than I!
Dont overthink it.
There are countless amounts of people that live in cold areas that dont use thinner oils. There's even more people arent on BITOG, and dont have a clue whats in their oil sump, nor do they care. Go to the quick change place, get the cheapest oil change they can, and drive it until the oil change light comes on, or longer.
There are countless amounts of people that live in cold areas that dont use thinner oils. There's even more people arent on BITOG, and dont have a clue whats in their oil sump, nor do they care. Go to the quick change place, get the cheapest oil change they can, and drive it until the oil change light comes on, or longer.
40 will have higher vii ...
Both are a3/b4, ll01, 229.5, 502/505 ...
I assume both have min hths of 3.5
40 may have a little higher hths (3.7?) not sure.
Does anyone know?
one of the real experts says sl is less aggressive on seals than sn ...
For cold start, you can't get better than 0!
Both are a3/b4, ll01, 229.5, 502/505 ...
I assume both have min hths of 3.5
40 may have a little higher hths (3.7?) not sure.
Does anyone know?
one of the real experts says sl is less aggressive on seals than sn ...
For cold start, you can't get better than 0!
Both oils will do good on -18f, which is by no means extreme temperature.
Pour point of 0W40 is -51c, 0W30 is -60c.
OW30 is Full Synthetic and according to Castrol PAO is 50-75%, while in 0W40 PAO is 25-50%.
HTHS:
0W30: 3.58
0W40: 3.7
CST:
0W30: 12.1
0W40: 13.1
I used both oils, old formulations, new formulations, and you will not ever experience temperature in lower 48 including most Alaska where those two oils would not have proper flow.
By the way, I started 0W40 in VW Tiguan at -37c parked overnight in WY.
Pour point of 0W40 is -51c, 0W30 is -60c.
OW30 is Full Synthetic and according to Castrol PAO is 50-75%, while in 0W40 PAO is 25-50%.
HTHS:
0W30: 3.58
0W40: 3.7
CST:
0W30: 12.1
0W40: 13.1
I used both oils, old formulations, new formulations, and you will not ever experience temperature in lower 48 including most Alaska where those two oils would not have proper flow.
By the way, I started 0W40 in VW Tiguan at -37c parked overnight in WY.
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I suspect the price difference is mostly because of different package size. Very rarely will you get a better deal by purchasing five one litre bottles over one five litre jug.
Originally Posted by Srt20
I use 0w-40 Castrol in WI, and has been started at -30*F. Very common to be in the -20s.
Heck Ive used 15w-40 here and started at -40*F. I did let it warm up for 20 mins before touching the throttle.
My daily driver in Flint Michigan back in the early 70s was a 69 Z28, ran 20W50 year round and it always started...sometimes needed a jump...and it didn't blow up.
I use 0w-40 Castrol in WI, and has been started at -30*F. Very common to be in the -20s.
Heck Ive used 15w-40 here and started at -40*F. I did let it warm up for 20 mins before touching the throttle.
My daily driver in Flint Michigan back in the early 70s was a 69 Z28, ran 20W50 year round and it always started...sometimes needed a jump...and it didn't blow up.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
good info.
pao % may explain the price diff.
Are they both imported?
Both are imported. Both are made in either Germany or Belgium.
0W30 is available only in 1qt size while 0W40 is available in 5qt size and 1qt size. Considering the price of 0W40 in Europe, I think Castrol is offering this oil far below what they do in other countries. It could be that they just push it due to marketing reasons.
On Amazon 0W30 goes for $56 and sometimes $76 for 6qt box. However, few weeks ago I managed to snatch a box for $36 after applying some coupon. Without coupon it was $48 at that time.
good info.
pao % may explain the price diff.
Are they both imported?
Both are imported. Both are made in either Germany or Belgium.
0W30 is available only in 1qt size while 0W40 is available in 5qt size and 1qt size. Considering the price of 0W40 in Europe, I think Castrol is offering this oil far below what they do in other countries. It could be that they just push it due to marketing reasons.
On Amazon 0W30 goes for $56 and sometimes $76 for 6qt box. However, few weeks ago I managed to snatch a box for $36 after applying some coupon. Without coupon it was $48 at that time.
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