what's a good, Cheap, chemical(fertilizer) resistant paint?

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so one day last week, i see my dad fiddling with his walk-behind broadcast spreader, "trying to figure out how to modify it so I can pull it behind the riding mower"
to which i told him, you know they make tow behind models right? "Yeah for at least $70! I don't wanna spend that kind of money"

so I hit the ol' craigslist, find a local farmer with one listed for $20.
pick it up a day or 2 later, bring it home, give it a good look over, all the fasteners are mighty rusty, the paint is flaking off the tube chassis, but still seems over all very solid.
I've already had to replace the nut & bolt that anchor the cable for the shutter(?) mechanism.(cable was just dangling loose), had to hacksaw the old bolt off..

anyway, got a little time off coming up, planning on doing a full tear down, wire wheeling the scaly bits off, cleaning up the metal as much as i can, and repainting it.
already have some rustoleum Etch Primer, and some of their basic "2X" satin black that's been knocking around here for a while..

is there something better I can pick up? am i fully over thinking it?

also, any tips for extending the cable for the actuator so it's easier to reach from the drivers seat of the mower?
 
My two cents for you is you get what you pay for. There is no "good, cheap, chemical resistant paint." That's why the quality fertilizer spreaders are made of stainless steel, nylon, chrome plated, galvanized, etc., parts. If you replace bolts use stainless bolts. I guess thinking about it, the best "paint" I can think of for you would be spray cold galvanizing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Professional-20-oz-Flat-Gray-Cold-Galvanizing-Compound-Spray-7585838/100142963?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CVF%7CD24%7CMulti%7CRUST-OLEUM%7CPLA%7CPaint%7CRustoleum_Spray_Paint_Smart_Sundries%7c71700000050750613%7c58700004946831847%7c92700042924976818&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjYHpBRC4ARIsAI-3GkGfK6ikQSs4AjSARhqlD09A40By11O4TU7cmnIoBA6OcdInuSSrfTEaAmrTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have a Spyker walk behind broadcast spreader. It's 20+ years old and fully functional; use it every season and spread salt and sand with it in winter. It's all stainless steel (even the hopper), gear drive, chrome and nylon parts...I don't remember what I paid for it; but all the bolts & nuts are stainless and original. https://www.spyker.com/
 
That's a tough order. The primer choice you made is a good one. I would look toward one of the industrial maintenance coatings. They are quite durable. How do you plan on applying it?
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
How do you plan on applying it?

rattle can.

would one of the OTC spray on bed liners work okay?
 
Originally Posted by earlyre
Originally Posted by demarpaint
How do you plan on applying it?

rattle can.

would one of the OTC spray on bed liners work okay?

I was thinking of a bed liner spray too. Surface prep and priming would be the same. I'd do multiple coats of the primer, then apply the bed liner after the primer has had time to fully dry. My only concern is the bed liner is the perfect surface to collect and hold dirt, so you would have to clean it more often. Touching it up would be very easy though, and the finish is flexible and tough. It might be worth considering.
 
MIL-P-23377 or MIL-PRF-23377 primer is the *GOOD* stuff.

Fertilizer is very corrosive - make sure the machine is 100% empty before storage, and washed down well.
 
Extend brand....spray or liquid...turns rust black. You might try to then spray it with plastic coating stuff, sorta rubber like texture.
 
I'm no chemist but galvanizing paint just gives corrosive chemicals some zinc to attack instead of the steel, which works until the anode is worn out.

But your fertilizers are full of ammonia and other nasties, which may not be what the chemistry in paint "expects".

Best paint you can run will seal off contact with this.

Best maintenance is a thorough hosing off when you're done, every time.
 
Originally Posted by earlyre
so one day last week, i see my dad fiddling with his walk-behind broadcast spreader, "trying to figure out how to modify it so I can pull it behind the riding mower"
to which i told him, you know they make tow behind models right? "Yeah for at least $70! I don't wanna spend that kind of money"

so I hit the ol' craigslist, find a local farmer with one listed for $20.
pick it up a day or 2 later, bring it home, give it a good look over, all the fasteners are mighty rusty, the paint is flaking off the tube chassis, but still seems over all very solid.
I've already had to replace the nut & bolt that anchor the cable for the shutter(?) mechanism.(cable was just dangling loose), had to hacksaw the old bolt off..

anyway, got a little time off coming up, planning on doing a full tear down, wire wheeling the scaly bits off, cleaning up the metal as much as i can, and repainting it.
already have some rustoleum Etch Primer, and some of their basic "2X" satin black that's been knocking around here for a while..

is there something better I can pick up? am i fully over thinking it?

also, any tips for extending the cable for the actuator so it's easier to reach from the drivers seat of the mower?


Rustoleum pickup truck bed paint. I painted a pull behind wagon for lawn tractor.

Many spreaders are plastic hopper now.
 
Originally Posted by Donald


Rustoleum pickup truck bed paint. I painted a pull behind wagon for lawn tractor.

Many spreaders are plastic hopper now.


Yes. Plastic hopper, just repainting the tubular chassis.

I use Rust-Oleum products primarily b/c that's what my employer sells...much to the annoyance of my uncle who is a sales rep for krylon, amongst other hardware brands...
 
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