Originally Posted by Hounds
Originally Posted by klt1986
. . . You made a very good case to go ahead and change the FF at about 5k, IMO. I also like the idea of running another high moly oil. My idea is to change the FF at about 5k without reseting the MM. Then, I'd run the 2nd fill until the MM dropped to 15%. From that point on I'd follow the MM.
Solid plan, IMHO. And I agree that you don't want to reset the MM at 5k. I just allow mine to do its thing. I'm often ahead on the maintenance recommended, but that's fine for me.
And Uncle Dave, WRT the pic you linked, Honda's website had (a now long gone) advisory that urged Honda owners not to worry about any "small" particles (they stated a size, but I don't recall what it was) that might not be captured by the two oil filters that Honda sold at the time (the A01 by Filtech and Honeywell's A02). Their point was the OEM filters are purposely designed to promote the flow of oil, not restrict it, and that whatever wasn't captured was so small that it was harmless, and actually beneficial in running-in a new motor. The fine texture, they argued, aided in honing the cylinders and seating the rings, and that it inevitably will be flushed out with the initial oil change. OK. All the more reason in my opinion to change the filter early and the FF NLT 5k.
Im doing what I can to catch the very small particle that go round and round through the filter - especially when I'm towing at max weight and revving the snot out of the mill which I do with regularity.
at some point, polishing means removal of material.
I woudlnt say Im worried about them, but I'd rather have cleaner oil than not for the very low price of a better filter and mag.
A dual layer synthetic flows better than the cellulose/ fibre AO series even though it filters better. Since the vehicle has a positive displacement pump I'm not worried about any difference in flow.
UD