2015 RAV4 2AR-FE Oil Selection

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leemajors

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Hello all--

Replaced the old girl 4Runner with a 4cyl RAV4.

I've heard dual VVT-i can be finicky about oil viscosity, but I'm considering using something slightly stouter than the 0w20 here in the south. We've had a lot of days over 100F.

2AR-FE has higher viscosity oils recommended in other countries, and I'm thinking of using a 0w30 AFE or doing a 5w30 Valvoline ML synthetic (we use that in the other vehicle as well).

I drive a lot of interstate miles in the heat (~40mi/daily commute).

Am I likely to encounter the VVTi knock with a 30w oil? Should I just not worry about it and use the 0w20 VML?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
they design their engines with mobil in mind


Interesting, could you say where you saw this?

OP, I commute 75 miles/day with the '14 RAV here in northern Az and can see 110f when I start home. The 2.5 seems perfectly happy with the 0W-20 on 10k OCIs, just hit 60k on the odo. Last fill was 5W-20 NAPA full syn just because and plan to try a -30 in the future. Your RAV should be fine with any of your choices but don't be afraid of the -20.
 
Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE is about as thin a "30W" oil as you can find. If you want a small jump up in viscosity, it's not a bad choice. If the VVTi gives you problems... just change the oil back to a 20w, but I'm betting it won't be necessary.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I guess what has me hung up is the Australian manual recommends several other viscosities. I know there are regulatory realities at play in the US and often oil availability issues elsewhere (although I doubt that's true in aus). I guess the feeling I get is that 0w20 is the thinnest safe oil to use for optimal efficiency but that doesn't necessarily mean it is best for protection?

The aus manual recommends 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 for any temp range with 10w30 above 0F, 15w40 above 10F and 20w50 above 20F.

I just find the discrepancy weird.
 
Originally Posted by leemajors
Thanks for all the replies. I guess what has me hung up is the Australian manual recommends several other viscosities. I know there are regulatory realities at play in the US and often oil availability issues elsewhere (although I doubt that's true in aus). I guess the feeling I get is that 0w20 is the thinnest safe oil to use for optimal efficiency but that doesn't necessarily mean it is best for protection?

The aus manual recommends 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 for any temp range with 10w30 above 0F, 15w40 above 10F and 20w50 above 20F.

I just find the discrepancy weird.


Australia doesn't have CAFE... which is where your discrepancy comes from.
 
I think the first 100k in wife's 2AR-FE was on 0W20. I've been using 5W30 or 10W30 lately as I'm more of a thick fan. But I'm not sure it really matters. First time I ran 10W30 PP I think it might have used 0.5qt over 10k but nothing since then. I feel no qualms about using a 5W30 full synth on a 5k OCI year 'round. And have done that too.

outside of some sludgers I don't think Toyota's are picky. And those sludgers are why I do tend to 5k OCI's now, even though it seems my two don't drink oil and it seems Toyota might have gotten past that problem.
 
Originally Posted by supton
I think the first 100k in wife's 2AR-FE was on 0W20. I've been using 5W30 or 10W30 lately as I'm more of a thick fan. But I'm not sure it really matters. First time I ran 10W30 PP I think it might have used 0.5qt over 10k but nothing since then. I feel no qualms about using a 5W30 full synth on a 5k OCI year 'round. And have done that too.

outside of some sludgers I don't think Toyota's are picky. And those sludgers are why I do tend to 5k OCI's now, even though it seems my two don't drink oil and it seems Toyota might have gotten past that problem.


Cool, thanks for the info. I guess I wasn't sure if it would give the VVTi issues or if this motor is particularly prone to shearing. It doesn't seem like anyone has any major issues with any viscosity.

I know the 2AZ had some serious consumption issues (though they seem to have been mechanical with piston rings?) - is there any weight related correlation to consumption with 2AR?
 
Don't forget, oil is thick when cold. Thin when hot. Yet your engine runs just as well when it starts at -40C as when it is at 100C water temperature. [Ok, at -40C you need that 0Wx but you get the idea--all oils are thick when cold. Much more thick than any difference between grades at hot.]

I'm not aware of 2AR oil issues. I haven't looked for a few years though. I think some of the RAV4 guys had premature water pump failures, but that's all I recall.

I've never bothered with testing the oil.

Is yours the cartridge filter? If so, don't overtighten the plastic housing. Once it bottoms out, it's good enough. The o-ring imparts so much drag it will never spin out on its own. I have one of the older filter wrenches and it likes to get stuck onto the housing; no biggie but kinda annoying. I've never used the filter predrain feature; I just drop the whole assembly.

I buy my filters in a 10 pack off ebay or amazon, usually $40 for 10 filters. I stick with OEM. I ran a Walmart Supertech once, and the o-ring was shot after 10k. Like just a few miles from leaking. For the price I just stick with OEM, it seems like whenever you read of high mile Toyota's (or anything for the matter) they did it on cheap filters and cheap oil.
 
Originally Posted by AZjeff
Originally Posted by PPWarrior
they design their engines with mobil in mind


Interesting, could you say where you saw this?

OP, I commute 75 miles/day with the '14 RAV here in northern Az and can see 110f when I start home. The 2.5 seems perfectly happy with the 0W-20 on 10k OCIs, just hit 60k on the odo. Last fill was 5W-20 NAPA full syn just because and plan to try a -30 in the future. Your RAV should be fine with any of your choices but don't be afraid of the -20.



Where saw that idea??

Maybe that TGMO comes in ExxonMobil oil containers??

One possible answer I guess...
 
Originally Posted by bbhero


Where saw that idea??

Maybe that TGMO comes in ExxonMobil oil containers??

One possible answer I guess...


Everything I've read said that TGMO add pack is quite a bit different than M1 and considered superior. Might be made by ExM but not the same product.
 
Originally Posted by AZjeff
Originally Posted by bbhero


Where saw that idea??

Maybe that TGMO comes in ExxonMobil oil containers??

One possible answer I guess...


Everything I've read said that TGMO add pack is quite a bit different than M1 and considered superior. Might be made by ExM but not the same product.


I can't fathom it being "superior", given the price point and relatively low market penetration of the product. Different? Certainly. It has also changed many times.
 
You can't do better in a 16 or 20 than OEM Toyota oil.
You can't do better in an ILSAC oil than QSUD 10w30.

I would go with QSUD 10w30.
 
I'm running 5w30 PUP in my rav 4, the thing is a rattle trap on 20 weight oil, the thing is butter smooth on 5w30, no issues at over 20k miles on 30 weight. I first tried using hearty 20w oils like redline and that smoothed it out a lot, but still PUP 30 weight is better then even the best oils 20 weight. It's smoothest running is now on 30 weight, likely will go over to costco deal m1 or whatever 30 synthetic is cheapest assuming I like the brands formula, but I'm sold on 30 for my rav 4.
 
Thanks all, I think I'm going to run M1 0w30 AFE and see how she does overall. Maybe PP or M1 5w30 if I'm feeling froggy at point of purchase. We rarely get below 20-30F here but spend months in the 90s.
 
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