Toilet Repair Advice

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This seems like as good of a place as any to ask about DIY/home improvement stuff, and thought I'd see if anyone can offer some advice on what I'm dealing with as far as this toilet.

As some background, this townhouse was built in ~2006, and I've been living here since August of 2011. This is the main toilet I use(I live alone) and it hasn't missed beat until just a few weeks ago. It's a Mansfield-brand toilet, and I don't THINK it has ever been worked on-it at least hasn't in the last 9 years, and all the parts I looked at were branded Mansfield.

A few weeks ago, two things happened at the same time. First, the handle broke. Shortly after that, it started leaking from the tank into the bowl pretty seriously(I can see water running down the sides of the bowl when the tank is full).

I replaced the handle with a generic brand part(don't think that should affect anything-it looked similar to the one I removed) and replaced the seal on the flush valve. I used a genuine Mansfield brand part on the latter, especially as I've had issues with generic ones in the past on a different toilet. I bought two seals the same day from the same hardware store, and the one that installed on a different toilet is working perfectly fine.

After replacing the seal, the fill valve started acting up(wouldn't open enough to fill the toilet), so I replaced that.

Now that that's done, I can't get the flush valve to seal adequately. It will seal enough to fill the tank, but it will drain down enough that the fill valve cycles back on every couple of minutes. If I turn the water off, the tank will empty(into the bowl) in ~10 minutes.

I'm at my whits end on this-I can't think of what else to replace on it unless I change out the entire flush valve, but that's also a tank-off job and am not sure about tackling that one myself. Can anyone else advise on what to try before I swallow my pride and call a plumber?

IMG_6218.jpg
 
Make sure that the toilet handle arm is not interfering with the flush valve closing. If that and a new seal don't solve the problem you will have to replace the entire flush valve assembly.
 
Toilets are really simple.
Probably $20 for all the parts.
Maybe an hour or so to rebuild guts.

If it is not a low flow toilet, I would replace it.

Youtube is your friend.
Good luck.
 
Replace it. Toilets are simple-that should take you 30 minutes at the most.

If you take the tank off, just make sure you don't tighten it too much. Just "good 'n snug". Otherwise you could crack the tank or base.
 
Your flush valve looks to be hanging up on that clear refill tube. That clear refill tube is supposed to go into the top of flush valve tower. It supplies water to fill the bowl. Also watch during a flush that your new "brass" flush handle piece is not hanging up on the flush valve. You can gently bend it to conform correctly.
[Linked Image]


Your stop cap for the refill tube may, or may not be broken depending on your model:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Check out this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CGEXCHoLo4
 
flush valves are like nine dollars and they replace that toilet float part. I had a similar problem in an old house and just replaced the valve it takes 20 minutes. Replace the rubber washers on the tank also. Don't overtorque it just use common sense.
 
The clear tube is not supposed to be located as shown in your picture. It belongs in the center top of the flush valve so that it can refill the bowl. Look at the position of the black tube in the last picture posted by doitmyself's reply. The flush tank is filled from water that enters from the bottom of the fill valve assembly.
 
I usually just grab one of these American Standard Cadet 3 toilets for my rental units, about $129. Uses the standard fluidmaster flush and fill valves. I usually end up grabbing a kit and replacing the guts pretty much every 5-7 years because once they start leaking or running, you end up with a pretty expensive water bill. Yours doesn't look like a very standard setup which is why you should either just get another toilet or just change out all the guts of it by ordering the right parts from the manufacturer. Usually if one part goes, the other one will go a couple years later so even if just one part of the toilet needs to be replace, I always get a handyman to replace all of it at the same time. Of course you can go with a high end toilet like a Toto also, about $187.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/America...-Slow-Close-Seat-3377128ST-020/206279086

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOTO-Ec...let-in-Cotton-White-CST744E-01/204103768
 
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
If it were mine I would install a Fluidmaster 400A ($6.34 at WM) and be done with it.



Yep .

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Fluidmaster-400A-Toilet-Tank-Repair-Fill-Valve/15788352?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4299&adid=22222222227016719519&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40872577832&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-78764790632&wl5=9028542&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15788352&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInfL3zOOT4wIVlLfACh1gIgqWEAQYAiABEgJTWfD_BwE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbTEq_da4H8
 
If you have to replace the whole toilet, i highly recommend Jacuzzi one piece at Lowes for under $200. Comes with two button flush...1 gal, 1.6? gal. Had mine over a year and love it. Even looks nice.
 
The Fluidmaster flush valve is better than the old style of float valves. I would get that. I've had two commodes go bad (I think it's the lime in the water around here). Sorry not familiar w/terminology, but the hole in the front that vents the bowl plugs w/deposits. If just a leak, I would fix it instead of replacing it.
 
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As has been said, the refill tube is not in place. Adjust the float so the water is a little below the pipe 1/8 to 1/4 inch and that's probably all you need to do. Actually rereading the post it may be your tank seal may still leak. It is pretty easy to take the tank off and put a whole new flush valve in.
 
Originally Posted by Farnsworth
As has been said, the refill tube is not in place. Adjust the float so the water is a little below the pipe 1/8 to 1/4 inch and that's probably all you need to do. Actually rereading the post it may be your tank seal may still leak. It is pretty easy to take the tank off and put a whole new flush valve in.


Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

I quoted this one specifically since it mentioned the water level. Last night, I adjusted the float so that it would fill to roughly the same level as the old one(and also routed the hose into the top). After filling it to that level, I shut the water off and didn't flush it for ~24 hours. When I checked before flushing, the tank was still more or less at the same level. I've shut it off again tonight and will try it once more, but I THINK it's fixed.

Aside from that, there's a definite difference in how the handle feels when it has sealed properly vs. not. You can definitely tell when you're "breaking" the seal on it.

I wouldn't have thought that the water level being too low would cause it to not seal, but there you have it.

Before moving here, I had never worked with one of these low capacity(I think this one is 1.6 gallons or so) high flow toilets, and the different flush valve design vs. the flappers I'm use to threw me off. Once you learn you're way around them, though, they're fundamentally not that different, although I still think I can change a flapper faster than I can a seal on one of these.

BTW, I do rent this place, although the owner lives across the country. I mostly do repairs like this myself because calling a plumber would require me taking time off work, even though I'd pay for it by deducting it from the rent(standing agreement). A $20 receipt stuffed in the envelope with the rent check wouldn't raise an eyebrow, nor would a $200 plumbing bill. $200 for a complete toilet might cause a problem, though. With that said, if I'm going to go to the trouble of calling a plumber, I'll make sure it's something I actually can't do myself like replacing a water heater(I dread that one given its location).
 
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