Rusty, repaint nightmare needs done.

[skyactiv]

This is the cellar door from the house I sold my dad which he rents to my younger sister. I need to paint it. I had a large air compressor at the house which I can take back over, hook up and use.
I know nothing about outdoor paint. I can sand all the paint and rust off with a DA sander. I don't know what grit paper to get. 60?

I'm considering using Coronado Rust Scat Alkyd Metal Primer and painting it with Rust Scat Polyurethane Enamel. Is that a good choice?

Since I have an air compressor, should I spray it? I don't have a spray gun. What about a Wagner spray gun?

 

[Chris Meutsch]

You should be able to rent a paint sprayer. I would clean it hard-core with a wire brush attachment to a drill or tool, and prime it twice, and then paint it 2-3 times with a proper metal outdoor paint.

 

[Gimpy1]

You have to get down to clean bare metal first. I see that there are seams etc that will make the job a bit more difficult. Since this is out doors try aircraft stripper (kleen strip makes it).
Once you are down to bare metal you will need to sand it down to a smooth finish and then wipe it down with lacquer thinner to make sure the metal surface is perfectly clean. The use a high quality metal primer and follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. After that follow thru with with several coats of paint sanding between coats. You can spray the paint but you can use a roller with a fine nap, and you'll waste less. Remember when painting, the most important thing is prep, and letting the paint dry between coats. If your prep sucks the primer and paint will not adhere and you'll get bubbles. Also what ever primer and paint you are using make sure that they are compatible with each other.

 

[spavel6]

**Disclaimer, this might not be a relevant concern**

With old paint like this, do you have lead concerns when chipping/sanding off all that paint?

 

[skyactiv]

Originally Posted by spavel6
**Disclaimer, this might not be a relevant concern**

With old paint like this, do you have lead concerns when chipping/sanding off all that paint?


Possibly as the house was built in 1969. I'm glad you brought that up as I'll wear a mask and make sure to contain the old paint.

 

[Fawteen]

If they were mine and I didn't want to replace them, I'd take them off and have them dipped or sandblasted to get all of the old paint off. Then I'd have them painted by an auto body shop that knows what they're doing. You'd get much better results than having someone who knows nothing of outdoor paint to do it.

But my first choice would be to just replace them. Those cellar door sets aren't all that expensive, and it would only take an hour or so to swap them out. If you figure the cost of the paint, equipment, hassle, and your time, you've almost covered the cost of a new set.

 

[Wolf359]

Right. They're anywhere from $400-$900 at Home Depot. The cheaper ones are just primed so you have to paint them, but the more expensive ones are already painted.

 

[AZjeff]

Sandblasting would be worth the effort. OP has a compressor, rent a sand blaster?

Replacement would be worth checking out vs time/effort/cost of refinishing.

 

[Gimpy1]

Originally Posted by skyactiv
Originally Posted by spavel6
**Disclaimer, this might not be a relevant concern**

With old paint like this, do you have lead concerns when chipping/sanding off all that paint?


Possibly as the house was built in 1969. I'm glad you brought that up as I'll wear a mask and make sure to contain the old paint.


Get a lead paint test kit at home depot or lowes they're like 10 or 12 bucks.

 

[Gimpy1]

Originally Posted by skyactiv
Originally Posted by spavel6
**Disclaimer, this might not be a relevant concern**

With old paint like this, do you have lead concerns when chipping/sanding off all that paint?


Possibly as the house was built in 1969. I'm glad you brought that up as I'll wear a mask and make sure to contain the old paint.


Get a lead paint test kit at home depot or lowes they're like 10 or 12 bucks.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Gimpy1
You have to get down to clean bare metal first. I see that there are seams etc that will make the job a bit more difficult. Since this is out doors try aircraft stripper (kleen strip makes it).
Once you are down to bare metal you will need to sand it down to a smooth finish and then wipe it down with lacquer thinner to make sure the metal surface is perfectly clean. The use a high quality metal primer and follow the manufacturers instructions to the letter. After that follow thru with with several coats of paint sanding between coats. You can spray the paint but you can use a roller with a fine nap, and you'll waste less. Remember when painting, the most important thing is prep, and letting the paint dry between coats. If your prep sucks the primer and paint will not adhere and you'll get bubbles. Also what ever primer and paint you are using make sure that they are compatible with each other.
Expose yourself to all of those chemicals and solvents and do nothing about the rust. It will be back within two years.
Originally Posted by Fawteen
If they were mine and I didn't want to replace them, I'd take them off and have them dipped or sandblasted to get all of the old paint off. Then I'd have them painted by an auto body shop that knows what they're doing. You'd get much better results than having someone who knows nothing of outdoor paint to do it.
Paying to get them dipped or blasted and then paying for an auto body shop to paint them so OP can have over $1000 wrapped up in a cellar door. No expenses spared when someone else is footing the bill.

Wire wheel it, hit it with some concrete etching acid then prime/paint it. If you are going to paint it with a brush or roller, thin the paint with whatever solvent the paint can recommends and give it a few thin coats. You can use the cheapest paint and primer you can find, if you etch it with acid it will kill the rust and help the paint stick.

 

[dave123]

How big of compressor? The above system is fine but I would blast them if you can or compressor is large enough. You can get a cheap gravity gun from Harbor Freight for 30 bucks or less I'd have them looking like show room condition in less than a day.

 

[AZjeff]

$600 minimum to replace after a quick search.

 

[Linctex]

A GOOD power washer will take 90% of the old paint off.

Use paste type paint stripper/remover to get the rest, then wirewheel the last bits - - then sand with a DA sander.

Use ONLY etching primer unless you do a thorough etch job - or the paint won't stick.

 

[Dave9]

Talk about overkill! Sand or wire brush it. With a power tool or two.

Wash it, dry it, prime it, brush paint on. There is no need whatsoever to rent anything. If someone has no power tools capable of sanding or wire brushing things, then of course that's something worthwhile to buy and own for life rather than renting.

Brush on paint will look fine, it's not a classic car. Semi-gloss white, two thin coats. It might be different if we were talking about hundreds of square feet to cover. Brush painting is not that hard to learn. Mainly don't put it on too thick and don't get it all over yourself lol. Don't put it on, on a windy day, and don't go back over paint with the brush again after it's started to thicken, work a section at a time. If you miss a little here or there, that's what a 2nd or 3rd coat is for.

 

[doitmyself]

I use Coronado products at my workplace, as shown in fuel tank pictures below. Alkyd enamels are entry level on the scale of exterior product quality. The polyurethane Rust Scat is similar to Rustoleum Alkyd Enamel, except the Coronado has a tiny bit of polyurethane in it to supposedly make it a "bit" better. Regular alkyd will begin to lose its luster in about 4 - 6 years outdoors. The poly alkyd will extend that 1 - 1.5 years in my experience.

My experience with the Coronado #35 metal primer is just average regarding rust inhibition. I've had better success with Rustoleum rusty metal primer which is rumored to have/had fish oil in it. Some internet chat says problems can happen using it on clean metal, but it works fine for me. I just did a project this past winter and applied Coronado acrylic latex enamel over it with no problems. YMMV.

I am planning to try this rust primer soon: https://rust007.com/destroyer.html I just learned about it while recently updating my education on rust converters (interesting stuff, which I should share at BITOG).


You realistically have two painting options. The correct way is to chemically and/or physically (sand blast) ALL the rust away. Clean the metal of any oil/grease. Use a metal prep acid etch/cleaner to eek out any remaining rust (in the pits). Apply a good primer. Apply several good top coats.

The other way is what most homeowners do. Clean the metal the best you can with scrapers, wire brushes, sandpaper, etc.. Throw a coat of primer on it and follow up with top coat. If that Rust Destroyer works as advertised, it might be a good alternative to the total rust removal/sand blast method. The Rust Destroyer seems to be some type of encapsulater, maybe similar to the POR 15 system? I theorize that the Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer also acts like this. Just my unproven hunches.

 

[earlyre]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Paying to get them dipped or blasted and then paying for an auto body shop to paint them so OP can have over $1000 wrapped up in a cellar door. No expenses spared when someone else is footing the bill.


well, since we're playing with someone else's money...
have 'em Acid Dipped, then Powder Coated.

 

[Nick1994]

Wire brush attachment on an angle grinder.

 

[andyd]

Pressure wash or chemical strip if worried about lead. I wouldn't sweat any paint that survives. Wire brush or sand with 120 grit. hit rusty areas with phosphoric acid, the stuff that turns black. Read up on whatever you use. Not everything mixes. Prime and paint. I would use a roller and or a 4"" brush. First coat , I would thin at least 25% for only the first coat. Then add straight paint for the next 3-4 coats I use gloss paint for exterior wood trim, Alkyd enamel with a dash of ureathane. sounds like a great idea. I like painting with a brush. It is low impact and peaceful exercise No need for air tools on such a small job.Leave the paint bucket on the stairs. Keep th brush in a baggie And give it a coat a day. .

 

[JR402]

All good suggestions, I wasn't going to make this post, but since its off topic, why not. I have many years experience in auto paint and restoration, metal blasting and prep, industrial painting projects, ect. You can really go as far or as basic as you wish. I guess my opinion, just to give a different view on it, keep it simple. Scrape some of the loose paint off and brush some new paint on. Go do something else you like to do and spend time with family and friends.