QSUD 10w 30 low pour point
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Didn't you like my answer in the other thread? Or do you not believe it?
Originally Posted by kschachn
Didn't you like my answer in the other thread? Or do you not believe it?
I actually read your answer after I restarted this thread because I'm trying to decide on what oil to use
If you read my opening statement I even said I figured I'd start a new thread on this
Didn't you like my answer in the other thread? Or do you not believe it?
I actually read your answer after I restarted this thread because I'm trying to decide on what oil to use
If you read my opening statement I even said I figured I'd start a new thread on this
It's interesting, what do you think that the pour point value represents for you as an end-user?
Triple_Se7en
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Originally Posted by tblt44
Originally Posted by kschachn
It's interesting, what do you think that the pour point value represents for you as an end-user?
I'm by far no oil expert but I would assume it flows easier when it's cold
Did something happen to the climate and it's now snowing this summer in Florida? I know Colorado got hit hard with the white stuff the other day.
PM me and we will go skiing in Frostproof (Polk County)..
Originally Posted by kschachn
It's interesting, what do you think that the pour point value represents for you as an end-user?
I'm by far no oil expert but I would assume it flows easier when it's cold
Did something happen to the climate and it's now snowing this summer in Florida? I know Colorado got hit hard with the white stuff the other day.
PM me and we will go skiing in Frostproof (Polk County)..
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by tblt44
Originally Posted by kschachn
It's interesting, what do you think that the pour point value represents for you as an end-user?
I'm by far no oil expert but I would assume it flows easier when it's cold
Did something happen to the climate and it's now snowing this summer in Florida? I know Colorado got hit hard with the white stuff the other day.
PM me and we will go skiing in Frostproof (Polk County)..
Yep snow in central florida.
No I was up in Tennessee in the single digits in the winter I think it got to 8 and my Tahoe at start up sounded awfull with valvoline max life 5w 30
I
Originally Posted by tblt44
Originally Posted by kschachn
It's interesting, what do you think that the pour point value represents for you as an end-user?
I'm by far no oil expert but I would assume it flows easier when it's cold
Did something happen to the climate and it's now snowing this summer in Florida? I know Colorado got hit hard with the white stuff the other day.
PM me and we will go skiing in Frostproof (Polk County)..
Yep snow in central florida.
No I was up in Tennessee in the single digits in the winter I think it got to 8 and my Tahoe at start up sounded awfull with valvoline max life 5w 30
I
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Originally Posted by Y_K
Either higher quality base stock or a generous amount of PPS or a typo. Judging by the fact this brand is made to a price point it's a typo.
So you think the -54 pour point could be a typo ?
I will contact them to find out
Either higher quality base stock or a generous amount of PPS or a typo. Judging by the fact this brand is made to a price point it's a typo.
So you think the -54 pour point could be a typo ?
I will contact them to find out
Originally Posted by tblt44
Originally Posted by Y_K
Either higher quality base stock or a generous amount of PPS or a typo. Judging by the fact this brand is made to a price point it's a typo.
So you think the -54 pour point could be a typo ?
I will contact them to find out
May not be a typo. QSUD being a SOPUS product is likely starting to use GTL as well and GTL group III could be formulated with pour point depressants to have a pour point In that range.
Not saying I know for sure, but IMO QSUD oils are highly underrated right now. I have a suspicion they are using GTL in the lineup just like PP/PUP.
Originally Posted by Y_K
Either higher quality base stock or a generous amount of PPS or a typo. Judging by the fact this brand is made to a price point it's a typo.
So you think the -54 pour point could be a typo ?
I will contact them to find out
May not be a typo. QSUD being a SOPUS product is likely starting to use GTL as well and GTL group III could be formulated with pour point depressants to have a pour point In that range.
Not saying I know for sure, but IMO QSUD oils are highly underrated right now. I have a suspicion they are using GTL in the lineup just like PP/PUP.
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-54C is actually -65F, so that PP is even better than you think...
But, the bare fact is that oil would have to be sold as a 5W30 if it actually met the CCS and MRV tests for that grade.
So, as far as actually starting a car in the cold, the 5W30 will be better, no matter what the pour points are.
Shannow had some great info about oils with good pour points failing miserably at starting cars in temperatures way above the PPs...to the point of damaging engines. This is why we have the W grades instead of relying on pour points.
But, the bare fact is that oil would have to be sold as a 5W30 if it actually met the CCS and MRV tests for that grade.
So, as far as actually starting a car in the cold, the 5W30 will be better, no matter what the pour points are.
Shannow had some great info about oils with good pour points failing miserably at starting cars in temperatures way above the PPs...to the point of damaging engines. This is why we have the W grades instead of relying on pour points.
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
-54C is actually -65F, so that PP is even better than you think...
But, the bare fact is that oil would have to be sold as a 5W30 if it actually met the CCS and MRV tests for that grade.
So, as far as actually starting a car in the cold, the 5W30 will be better, no matter what the pour points are.
Shannow had some great info about oils with good pour points failing miserably at starting cars in temperatures way above the PPs...to the point of damaging engines. This is why we have the W grades instead of relying on pour points.
Yes, and if it is really, really cold (below -25F) a 0W will perform somewhat better.
The idea of "flow" is overrated for the most part and pour point is an outdated and inferior method of predicting cold weather performance. SAE J300 came about because pour point didn't accurately model the oil's behavior at low temperatures. Today about the only use for pour point is in conjunction with the MSDS to try and discern base stocks, but as you say if a 10W oil meets the specified performance target for a 5W it will be labeled as such - and so on down to a 0W. Pour point depressants can make some oils have a low published pour point but not increase the actual cold weather performance.
-54C is actually -65F, so that PP is even better than you think...
But, the bare fact is that oil would have to be sold as a 5W30 if it actually met the CCS and MRV tests for that grade.
So, as far as actually starting a car in the cold, the 5W30 will be better, no matter what the pour points are.
Shannow had some great info about oils with good pour points failing miserably at starting cars in temperatures way above the PPs...to the point of damaging engines. This is why we have the W grades instead of relying on pour points.
Yes, and if it is really, really cold (below -25F) a 0W will perform somewhat better.
The idea of "flow" is overrated for the most part and pour point is an outdated and inferior method of predicting cold weather performance. SAE J300 came about because pour point didn't accurately model the oil's behavior at low temperatures. Today about the only use for pour point is in conjunction with the MSDS to try and discern base stocks, but as you say if a 10W oil meets the specified performance target for a 5W it will be labeled as such - and so on down to a 0W. Pour point depressants can make some oils have a low published pour point but not increase the actual cold weather performance.
Originally Posted by tblt44
No I was up in Tennessee in the single digits in the winter I think it got to 8 and my Tahoe at start up sounded awfull with valvoline max life 5w 30
That would not be due to the oil. a 5W-XX oil is similar in viscosity to a 0W and a 10W above 0F regardless of brand. The performance specification is agnostic to whether it is Valvoline, Mobil, SOPUS or Castrol.
No I was up in Tennessee in the single digits in the winter I think it got to 8 and my Tahoe at start up sounded awfull with valvoline max life 5w 30
That would not be due to the oil. a 5W-XX oil is similar in viscosity to a 0W and a 10W above 0F regardless of brand. The performance specification is agnostic to whether it is Valvoline, Mobil, SOPUS or Castrol.
Originally Posted by tblt44
Thanks for everyone helping school me.
I will stick with a 5w 30 year round.
I wanted an oil that would pump fast at start up and protect under a load, now I know not to look at the pour point
Nothing wrong with that decision...but, honestly, if single digits F are the worst you have to deal with a 10W30 might be fine.
A 10W30 is tested for cold cranking at -25C (-13F) and for pumpability at -30C (-22F).
A 5W30 is tested for cold cranking at -30C and pumpability at -35C (-31F).
A 0W30 is test for cold cranking at -35C and pumpability at -40C (-40F).
I ski in the White Mountains of NH and have always been OK with 5W30, although I tried M1 0W30 AFE last winter for fun (never even got really cold, though).
Your engine may sound nastier in the single digits F with the 10W30, though...I will say there were times I was using conventional 5W30 up North and the cranking and first few minutes of running seemed pretty shaky. If you look at the detailed numbers, the conventionals will tend to meet their CCS specs without much margin while many (not all) synthetics will be substantially below the spec limit...for example, M1 5W30 generally is shown around 4000 cP CCS at -30C while the spec limit is 6600cP. But, again, if it performed well enough to meet the 0W spec of 6200cP at -35C, it would be a 0W30 and not a 5W30. A conventional 5W30 will usually be right around 6000cP at -30C when the data can be found, in my experience.
Thanks for everyone helping school me.
I will stick with a 5w 30 year round.
I wanted an oil that would pump fast at start up and protect under a load, now I know not to look at the pour point
Nothing wrong with that decision...but, honestly, if single digits F are the worst you have to deal with a 10W30 might be fine.
A 10W30 is tested for cold cranking at -25C (-13F) and for pumpability at -30C (-22F).
A 5W30 is tested for cold cranking at -30C and pumpability at -35C (-31F).
A 0W30 is test for cold cranking at -35C and pumpability at -40C (-40F).
I ski in the White Mountains of NH and have always been OK with 5W30, although I tried M1 0W30 AFE last winter for fun (never even got really cold, though).
Your engine may sound nastier in the single digits F with the 10W30, though...I will say there were times I was using conventional 5W30 up North and the cranking and first few minutes of running seemed pretty shaky. If you look at the detailed numbers, the conventionals will tend to meet their CCS specs without much margin while many (not all) synthetics will be substantially below the spec limit...for example, M1 5W30 generally is shown around 4000 cP CCS at -30C while the spec limit is 6600cP. But, again, if it performed well enough to meet the 0W spec of 6200cP at -35C, it would be a 0W30 and not a 5W30. A conventional 5W30 will usually be right around 6000cP at -30C when the data can be found, in my experience.
I have nothing to offer from a technical standpoint but do live in northern Ohio where -10 air temps are somewhat normal. 7years of owning a Volkswagen Routan 4.0 (not kept in a garage) that called for 10-30, I used synthetic. There were times it rattled for a second or two, but when it was totaled at 130k it was still a strong runner that used no more oil than when it was new. I switched my 09 altima from 5 to 10-30 to slow down some consumption. After seeing some success with PP I believe I'll stay there going forward.
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