1993 BMW 325is. Replaced the clutch at 145k. Sold it at 245k. Repacked the alt bearings and RTABs somewhere along the line. Ran Delo 15/40 in the summer and whatever 5/30 in the winter. That's it.
Your Most RELIABLE, TROUBLE-FREE Vehicle?
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2015 CX5.
Sold at 106k miles.
Problems/causes:
-30k miles, right front wheel arch trim detatched/baseball sized chunk of concrete thrown up at highway speeds.
-35k miles, rear diff solenoid failure/I drove through a flooded area and it took on aater, 2 months prior to failure. I was unaware the breather had been submerged.
-106k miles, HPFP and FPR both failed/I got gas 5 minutes prior to failure. I cannot prove it was bad gas, but it's reasonable to be very suspicious.
So basically, zero things broke by themselves in 100k miles.
Maintenance done:
Tires at 28k, 75k, and 95k miles
Brakes at 97k miles
Spark plugs at 87k miles
Oil changes at 5k mile intervals until 75k, and then moved to 7500. This is because I moved to a rural area and it saw more longer drives.
Air filters for the engine every 15k miles
Cabin air filter every 20 to 30k
Sold at 106k miles.
Problems/causes:
-30k miles, right front wheel arch trim detatched/baseball sized chunk of concrete thrown up at highway speeds.
-35k miles, rear diff solenoid failure/I drove through a flooded area and it took on aater, 2 months prior to failure. I was unaware the breather had been submerged.
-106k miles, HPFP and FPR both failed/I got gas 5 minutes prior to failure. I cannot prove it was bad gas, but it's reasonable to be very suspicious.
So basically, zero things broke by themselves in 100k miles.
Maintenance done:
Tires at 28k, 75k, and 95k miles
Brakes at 97k miles
Spark plugs at 87k miles
Oil changes at 5k mile intervals until 75k, and then moved to 7500. This is because I moved to a rural area and it saw more longer drives.
Air filters for the engine every 15k miles
Cabin air filter every 20 to 30k
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1995 Civic EX Coupe driven 240k miles in 9 years.
Besides maintenance in manual the only repairs were one exhaust, radiator and clutch master cylinder(warranty).
Brakes lasted around 60k per replacement.
Besides maintenance in manual the only repairs were one exhaust, radiator and clutch master cylinder(warranty).
Brakes lasted around 60k per replacement.
1st Place- 1991 Honda Accord
Bought it with the odometer inoperable (it had stopped at 282k) for $1,500. Drove it for 6 years with multiple 2,000 mile road trips and the only thing it required in the time outside of routine stuff was replacing pulley which had let go on me about 1/4 mile from my house and ripped the belt to shreds. Pushed it home, picked up the parts I needed, and it was back on the road in under 30 minutes. Sold it for $600 in 2012 and as far as I know, it's still on the road (we last saw it in November of last year).
2nd Place- 1997 Grand Cherokee (4.0)
This Jeep wasn't without some issues- all of which are comically common to the ZJ. It had electrical issues which caused the Vehicle Information Display to go haywire from time to time, it was leaking from the oil filter adapter (never had to top off, just left little annoying drips), and the headliner was sagging something fierce. However, it never left me stranded or failed to start for me and that 4.0 was a fuel thirsty tank of an engine. I toyed with putting this first, and in the past I've stated that this is my most reliable vehicle, but I couldn't this time because I've realized that it had more flaws than I like to remember- they were just minor enough for me to not have to fix it as they never effected daily drivability.
Bought it with the odometer inoperable (it had stopped at 282k) for $1,500. Drove it for 6 years with multiple 2,000 mile road trips and the only thing it required in the time outside of routine stuff was replacing pulley which had let go on me about 1/4 mile from my house and ripped the belt to shreds. Pushed it home, picked up the parts I needed, and it was back on the road in under 30 minutes. Sold it for $600 in 2012 and as far as I know, it's still on the road (we last saw it in November of last year).
2nd Place- 1997 Grand Cherokee (4.0)
This Jeep wasn't without some issues- all of which are comically common to the ZJ. It had electrical issues which caused the Vehicle Information Display to go haywire from time to time, it was leaking from the oil filter adapter (never had to top off, just left little annoying drips), and the headliner was sagging something fierce. However, it never left me stranded or failed to start for me and that 4.0 was a fuel thirsty tank of an engine. I toyed with putting this first, and in the past I've stated that this is my most reliable vehicle, but I couldn't this time because I've realized that it had more flaws than I like to remember- they were just minor enough for me to not have to fix it as they never effected daily drivability.
Right now the wife's 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4x4 has been the most trouble free vehicle I've ever owned. It just turned 105k miles and has never gone back to the dealer for anything except a software update once. All I have done is regular oil changes with 5w/30 Mobil 1, a couple air filters, cabin filters and wipers - thats it! Just did the brakes at 102k miles and they actually still looked like they could go another 10-15k miles. I am overdue for transmission, diff and t-case fluids and tune up is due. I will tackle these in the next week or so. Even the air suspension has been fantastic!
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2007 Corolla. I sold it last year with 178K miles and it was running like it just rolled off the lot. It was part of the Takata airbag and ECM recalls but neither of those ever prevented it from starting up and driving.
I preemptively replaced the intake manifold gasket. Cost $7 and took 45 minutes.
I preemptively replaced the intake manifold gasket. Cost $7 and took 45 minutes.
1996 Camry V6.
2000 Focus with 203k miles, my current daily driver. Has only stranded me twice, when the ignition lock froze. (No surprise there.)
Wish now that I had taken better care of it, but was used hard in the deserts and mountains searching for meteorites and gold, where I broke all 4 window regulators and got stuck in sand up to my doors (had to crawl out the window). Also used Wally World oil and filters for 100k+ before I switched to Wix and Purolator, and various oils which were on sale.
Almost everything is original, but non-maintenance items replaced were a vc gasket, thermostat housing, and two alternators. Needs steering work now as the rack is sticking.
Wish now that I had taken better care of it, but was used hard in the deserts and mountains searching for meteorites and gold, where I broke all 4 window regulators and got stuck in sand up to my doors (had to crawl out the window). Also used Wally World oil and filters for 100k+ before I switched to Wix and Purolator, and various oils which were on sale.
Almost everything is original, but non-maintenance items replaced were a vc gasket, thermostat housing, and two alternators. Needs steering work now as the rack is sticking.
My current 4-cylinder Tacoma. Several keys to its reliability: good engineering and build quality, simplicity of design (2wd), very little abusive treatment, and good maintenance.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/06/full-39486-33865-10398804_1139724817602_6355776_n.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I need to mention a close runner-up, which may surprise some people: my 1972 AMC Gremlin X. Put 100,000 miles on it without any trouble whatsoever. I did not treat that car well either, so I think the keys to reliability are... I got it from my grandparents in excellent condition (can a Gremlin be in good condition? LOL)... plus its design was a bit of cobbling from other manufacturers: Jeep engine, Chrysler automatic transmission, Ford rear axle (all very stout and reliable components). Lots of fond memories in that car
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/06/full-39486-33863-gremlin_01.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/06/full-39486-33864-gremlin_02.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I need to mention a close runner-up, which may surprise some people: my 1972 AMC Gremlin X. Put 100,000 miles on it without any trouble whatsoever. I did not treat that car well either, so I think the keys to reliability are... I got it from my grandparents in excellent condition (can a Gremlin be in good condition? LOL)... plus its design was a bit of cobbling from other manufacturers: Jeep engine, Chrysler automatic transmission, Ford rear axle (all very stout and reliable components). Lots of fond memories in that car
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1981 Toyota Corona 4sp manual. Original owner, driven until 1998 with 277,000 miles all in Chicago and surrounding areas. Never once failed to start. Needed a new clutch at 110,000 miles. Replaced all hoses once and all belts twice. It was 100% original otherwise. Did tune-ups every few years. OFCI @ 3000-3500 miles w/Castrol GTX or Havoline 10w-40.
It got 27 MPG average fuel economy when new and 27 MPG when retired. The analog clock kept perfect time. It was retired because heavy rust on the frame and under-body crossed my threshold of safety.
Ray
It got 27 MPG average fuel economy when new and 27 MPG when retired. The analog clock kept perfect time. It was retired because heavy rust on the frame and under-body crossed my threshold of safety.
Ray
1988 Ford F350 crew cab. 7.3 diesel 3 speed auto 4x4 Was never into the engine -transfer case-transmission or differentials. Replaced 1 tie rod 1 axe seal a couple of flow plugs. Sold the truck at 410,000 miles. Road salt took it. New owner pulled the engine and put it in a 1987 F250. AMAZING TRUCK
Originally Posted by Silverado12
Chevy Silverado 2WD truck with old style iron block 4.3 and 4 speed automatic. 2013 was the last year for them. The 4.8 was even better but didn't get good gas mileage. My 4.3 averages 18-19, up to 22 on a trip.
I've got a 2011 Silverado 4.3 with the 4 speed. Doesn't get great mileage but basic no frills work trucks are getting harder to find. Sometimes I think less bells and whistles is a good thing.
Chevy Silverado 2WD truck with old style iron block 4.3 and 4 speed automatic. 2013 was the last year for them. The 4.8 was even better but didn't get good gas mileage. My 4.3 averages 18-19, up to 22 on a trip.
I've got a 2011 Silverado 4.3 with the 4 speed. Doesn't get great mileage but basic no frills work trucks are getting harder to find. Sometimes I think less bells and whistles is a good thing.
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2012 Toyota Corolla, I can see why people buy these cars and why there is one on every block. I've done nothing but basic maintenance, owned since new. Nothing exciting in a good way.
Patman
Staff member
I have had my Civic for 8 years now and it has hardly needed any repairs at all. I had to replace the oil pressure sending unit as it was leaking very slightly (although honestly I could have left it alone) And the AC compressor no longer works. But other than that this car just keeps plugging away!
My Corvette is still pretty new, but even after a year and a half of ownership at 12,500 miles, it's 100% perfect.
I also bought a 1998 Firebird Formula brand new and had it for almost 3 years and I never had a problem with it.
My Corvette is still pretty new, but even after a year and a half of ownership at 12,500 miles, it's 100% perfect.
I also bought a 1998 Firebird Formula brand new and had it for almost 3 years and I never had a problem with it.
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
The Germans do not understand electricity.
LOL
The Germans do not understand electricity.
LOL
94 Camry and 2002 Honda CRV ,both had over 100K on the clock when we bought them. No major issues, most annoying issue with our 94 Camry was that about every 2 years a window motor would need replacing at a cost of about $125 a pop.Probably had 6or 7 of those replaced. Both very reliable. AC on CRV went out ,but I did fine without AC. I suppose it would have cost $800 or so to repair it had I done so. Granted, the tires ,batteries,brakes, headlights,belts hoses, and the usual routine stuff on both. Never had to replace timing belt on Camry and the CRV had a timing chain. Camry was pushing north of 380K when sold and Honda had about 290K when it was totaled in a school parking lot when a food delivery driver had a seizure and plowed into a row of several cars. I would not hesitate to go with a 94 Camry again or a 2002 CRV ..still notice many of them on the road still going strong.
1998 Honda Civic LX. Bought it with 106K miles and sold it with 360K miles. The car never left me stranded.
Every Festiva I've owned, a close second would the Aspires. The third would the Escape, it's not perfect but over 164k the repairs has been only wear items.
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