PCV Valve Cleaning Replacement ?

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ChrisD46

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The Elantra (just over 100K miles) in my sig. is due for a PCV valve replacement ... The car doesn't burn any oil , has always used synthetic oil with OCI's of less than 6K miles and when the oil comes out it's still a dark amber and doesn't smell burnt .
I'm guessing that over time a PCV valve deteriorates in performance leading to engine varnish , sludge , etc. ... I figure a decent maintenance schedule is to clean the PCV valve ever 25K miles and replace at 100K miles ? Lastly , I'm sure (as I) there are a large group of people who never pay attention to their PCV valves ... My only redemption (maybe ) is that I use the latest spec synthetic 5W20 / 5W30 in my vehicles since new and change the oil & oil filter < 6K miles each time . Your thoughts on PCV valve maintenance ?
 
OP: Just replace it with the OEM one. Super simple.

FWIW: I'm still running my original PCV valve but it works great (I test it) and I have cleaned it in the past with CRC Throttle body cleaner (wasn't really dirty, but easy to do).
Just go easy on the plastic threads and don't forget about the O-ring (lube with fresh oil).
 
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I wonder if the shape and the size of the PCV valve makes a difference? Our two SUVs have small plastic PCV valves. On the one SUV, I didn't change it or clean it like I should have. It had deposit buildup bad enough that it didn't rattle anymore. Our dad has a 2006 Tundra with the 4.7L V8. I checked the PCV valve at around 100,000 miles, it is the original factory PCV valve. It is metal and is threaded into the valve cover. It is also probably around double the size of the SUV's valves.
I checked it, wondering if it was starting to clog up. I was curious because, not only is the valve bigger, but, we have used synthetic oil since the factory fill was dumped.
Unscrewed the PCV valve, it still rattled. Started the truck up, and put my thumb over the end. It about pulled some of the flesh of my thumb into the valve! Lots of suction.

I was happy with that. What made the difference? The size of the PCV valve? Or the use of synthetic oil since new?
 
I've only changed a PCV valve once - on my Accord at like 160k miles. Did it purely b/c I heard it's something that should be replaced periodically, not b/c there was any problem. The factory one still rattled and looked fine. Changed it out anyway and noticed no difference.

I'm only going to change one now if I have a problem, e.g., oil burning, rough idle, visibly damaged, and etc. If it ain't broke.....
 
The one for my 2008 4.6L F150 is electrically heated (???) and gets "destroyed" when removed from the valve cover.

It's almost $50!!! ( $41.79 from RockAuto plus shipping)

If it ain't broke......... you know

I pull the hose off the top of it, and spray a little Berryman's B-12 spray down through it every 6 months.

I'll never replace it until it absolutely *NEEDS* to be replaced. Until then, I just clean it once in a while.
 
I had a dealer do a PCV valve replacement for me at a 90+kmile service (closer to 100k) even though I had purchased one on my own for $8-9 some time before. I really didn't want to pull that intercooler myself, I admit it...I mangled it a bit by barely touching it when it was new!!
Among a number of other odd things at that service, they charged me for 2 PCVs @ $20 each!
I can't find a parts diagram for the FA20DIT engine that shows the PCV valve...does it actually have two of them???
 
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
I had a dealer do a PCV valve replacement for me at a 90+kmile service (closer to 100k) even though I had purchased one on my own for $8-9 some time before. I really didn't want to pull that intercooler myself, I admit it...I mangled it a bit by barely touching it when it was new!!
Among a number of other odd things at that service, they charged me for 2 PCVs @ $20 each!
I can't find a parts diagram for the FA20DIT engine that shows the PCV valve...does it actually have two of them???

Well, I did find a parts diagram and whatever I bought a while ago isn't the PCV valve.
Looks like I bought the "Hose Assembly-Pcv" and I should have bought "Valve Complete-Control".
Guess I'm a dummy for thinking the part with PCV in its name was the PCV valve!!!

Still don't think my car has 2 PCVs....I have had 3 Subaru dealers just hose me on service in the last couple of years between our two cars.
Gotta learn to do more myself!!!!
 
OP here : Thanks for the replies ... I decided to buy OEM PCV valves (on-line) to ensure I had the right fit ... The ones shown at Autozone , etc. were less expensive but looked different . Not sure if there is a quality difference but considering it's not something I have to replace so frequently I decided on the OEM PCV vales and call it a day .
 
I went to replace the PCV in my Tacoma at 150,000 miles simply due to time and mileage. But I bought the wrong replacement valve (CA models have threaded install, not the typical grommet and push-on fit). So I cleaned, lubed and reinstalled the existing one which seemed to be working fine, and still have no issues. No burning oil, no smoke.
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
The one for my 2008 4.6L F150 is electrically heated (???) and gets "destroyed" when removed from the valve cover.

It's almost $50!!! ( $41.79 from RockAuto plus shipping)

If it ain't broke......... you know

I pull the hose off the top of it, and spray a little Berryman's B-12 spray down through it every 6 months.

I'll never replace it until it absolutely *NEEDS* to be replaced. Until then, I just clean it once in a while.



The little lock breaks off them, But doesn't destroy it. I've ran across those during engine swaps ('04 4.6L into a '05 model truck for example)......They're "Turn to Lock/Seat" with a O-ring seal like a lot of oil caps. Oil caps don't come off by themselves.
 
If the valve is easily replaced, it doesn't hurt. Stick with OEM. On most cars, unless it's a chronic sludge monster or has a poorly-designed PCV system, there might not be a need to touch the PCV valve unless there is a driveablity concern. The PCV system does interact with manifold vacuum.
 
PCV valve meters air flow into the engine and proper air flow is critical on a computer controlled car. The pintle in the valve is a wear item so just because it's rattling doesn't mean it's good like in the carburetor days just replace it
 
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