Volvo S80.

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My daughter has an 07 s80, 3.2 liter and is a royal pita to service and I dread every oil change. I've never done an analysis and really don't want to, yet I get that's the only way to tell how long she can go between changes. I've been doing 10-15k on liqui moly but have ran out and scored some crazy good deals on oil lately and wanted an opinion of which oil I should use and recommended length I can go. I'm not an extended drain kind of guy but being a non turbo with a huge sump I feel you can. The car takes over 8 quarts and uses a canister filter, which I use Mann filters. On hand I have these oils.
PP 5-30 HM
Valvoline 0-40, not the European oil
PP 10-30
Mobil 10-30 HM synthetic
The car uses no oil and no drips or leaks and has just over 100k.
 
If it's that hard to change the oil is it worth looking at external filters and maybe a bypass filter? You may be able to get away with just filter changes and never have to change the oil.
 
It's not the filter that's the pain. It's the drip pan and the 75 bolts they use to attach it. Doing it without a lift makes for a difficult job.
 
In our volvos I've leaned towards the heavier - 10-30 and 0-40 oils. The OM on ours listed 40 weight as acceptable, and they stayed quieter on heavier oils when running the 7-10k OCIs we do in my home. Our S60s have 10 bolts I think for the splash guard and I usually drive them up on a couple of stacked 2x10s for a little wrench room. Yes, they take a little more time, as they have no ground clearance.

We do have a mityvac - and if your circumstances don't favor taking off the engine diaper, it's a no-fuss, almost relaxing way to go. Well worth the money, especially if you choose to change things like steering fluid and transmission fluid. I wore my first one out, gave it to a friend (they sell rebuild kits for them) and bought a second. Remember that these cars have a complex breather system that *will* punish you if you do not stay on top of oil changes and use a full syn oil.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_7?crid=34JM6HA086NLP&keywords=mityvac&qid=1561385818&s=automotive&sprefix=mityvac%2Cdigital-music%2C252&sr=1-7

-m
 
Okay, I watched that video and see that the oil filter is accessible from the top.

Oil extractor is the way to go.
 
I had an s60 t5 for years and was one of the best cars I've ever owned. I believe the manufacture recommendation is 7500 which I always followed with a 6qt capacity. The 3.2 is non turbo and from what I've read on Volvo forums is rather easy on oil. My t5 oil was black as night when I drained as the 3.2 is still very clean at 10k. I know color means very little but clean oil gives me a warm and fuzzy as opposed to to the color of tar. Is valvoline or PP considered extended drain oils?
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Okay, I watched that video and see that the oil filter is accessible from the top.

Oil extractor is the way to go.


Another factory anti DIY effort by manufacturers.
 
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by PimTac
Okay, I watched that video and see that the oil filter is accessible from the top.

Oil extractor is the way to go.


Another factory anti DIY effort by manufacturers.




It surely is. Volvo could have added a access panel but they didn't. Many auto manufacturers do include them.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
I've never done an analysis and really don't want to, yet I get that's the only way to tell how long she can go between changes.


Makes little sense to spend money for that on a $1,000 car. Put the money towards increasing the frequency if it makes you feel better.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by PimTac
Okay, I watched that video and see that the oil filter is accessible from the top.

Oil extractor is the way to go.


Another factory anti DIY effort by manufacturers.




It surely is. Volvo could have added a access panel but they didn't. Many auto manufacturers do include them.

Exactly. I'd ditch the diaper all together but there appears to be some sensitive parts on the bottom of the engine.
 
on a passenger car, the under trays are well worth leaving on. Not only is there an aerodynamic benefit, but there is also a sound benefit as well. There are a lot of people who have arguably raised valid claims that these under Tray prevent premature failure of the electric radiator fan and other components.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
My daughter has an 07 s80, 3.2 liter and is a royal pita to service and I dread every oil change. I've never done an analysis and really don't want to, yet I get that's the only way to tell how long she can go between changes. I've been doing 10-15k on liqui moly but have ran out and scored some crazy good deals on oil lately and wanted an opinion of which oil I should use and recommended length I can go. I'm not an extended drain kind of guy but being a non turbo with a huge sump I feel you can. The car takes over 8 quarts and uses a canister filter, which I use Mann filters. On hand I have these oils.
PP 5-30 HM
Valvoline 0-40, not the European oil
PP 10-30
Mobil 10-30 HM synthetic
The car uses no oil and no drips or leaks and has just over 100k.


I owned this same car for about three years (my first and only Volvo). That six is STUFFED into that front end - I feel your pain! I always ran Castrol Edge 0W-40 and Mann-Hummel filters with an Oil Change Interval of 6K miles. Didn't leak oil but would randomly use oil and then not (unknown reason). The PCV was replaced prior to my ownership and it never had any smoke or fouled plugs. I also always ran 93 octane gas. If memory serves, mine was of the early 2007 that used 8.2quarts of oil while the next model year the pan was changed (I think) and it went down to 7.6quarts of oil. Sold the car with 218K miles on it. Built very solid (was somebodies road car before I bought it at 165K miles).

I did purchase a nice metal (IPD Skid Plate) under-engine panel with nice cutouts for oil drain plug (I put in a Fumoto valve w/adapter), transmission drain plug and air flow vents (I assume for the AWD version). Protects the bottom end nicely as well.

My old signature on Swedespeed was:
(SOLD) 2007 S80 3.2L FWD (BD: 11/06)| Willow Green | 218K miles @ 9/2017
Mods: IPD Alu Skid Plate | 25% tint | Qwik-Valve F104S + ADP-104 | MagnaFlow Mufflers (#11225) w/Stainless tips | GC Edge 0W-40 oil | Continental PureContact tires (225/50R17) on 17" Regor rims.
 
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'd go with the Mobil1 10w-30HM or the 0w-40 Valvoline. Also agree the undertrays are useful, planning to replace the plastic one on my g37 with a full metal skidplate prior to my next cross country drive, for less then $200 they are a deal.
 
My 2007 S80 has about 8 bolts securing the tray, certainly no more than 10. I have a pair of ramps which provide adequate access for my aged overweight girth. I use PUP 0w-40 with no oil usage during oil change duration.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
on a passenger car, the under trays are well worth leaving on. Not only is there an aerodynamic benefit, but there is also a sound benefit as well.

I agree with this statement.

My only experience with this was on my dad's 78 Volvo 245 wagon.
One particular shop removed it to do some work to the cooling system.
When the failed to replace the belly pan, the PS rack boots split shortly thereafter.
Also while on the highway the car's steering would wander all over the place (lack of pan made the lower section act like a wind sock at high speeds (for a Volvo)).
Once the cover was replaced, everything went back to normal (for a Volvo)
 
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