Noisy AC compressor

[Silver]

It makes noise when running, so I don't think it's the clutch.

It's a whiny, buzzing noise. It blows cold and is in the yellow "overfilled but ok" range on the little pressure dial. When idling it makes a faint sort of puttering sound, like a tiny little pump (ironically!).

I added a 2 oz oil charge with no change.

My question is should I change the compressor out before it fails so that I don't get ground up metal in the system, or can I wait till it fails without that risk?

2002 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan

 

[Whipcitywrencher]

If you've checked the obvious like the belt or pulley.
And it's making a noise while going down the road I would replace it.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by Silver

My question is should I change the compressor out before it fails so that I don't get ground up metal in the system, or can I wait till it fails without that risk?


I change compressors when they start making "mechanical" noises..... It's 17 years old (original?) so it's time!

It may already be "making metal" - - hopefully your orifice tube screen has captured it all at this point.

 

[jagdriver727]

I have an '02 Ranger with the 3.0 Vulcan, not sure if it is the exact same compressor, but it must be similar.

It has been making the same noise you describe for about the last 60,000 miles... blows cold, pressure reads normal, has no issues otherwise.

It has not gotten notably louder in a long time, I replaced the clutch about 20k ago to address an unrelated issue.

I have no intention of replacing mine unless it fails, we'll see how much longer it holds up. Your mileage may vary.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by Silver
My question is should I change the compressor out before it fails so that I don't get ground up metal in the system, or can I wait till it fails without that risk?


To get the compressor warranty, most manufacturers require you to replace a bunch of other parts like the condenser and drier at the same time anyway.

 

[mclasser]

Originally Posted by Silver
is in the yellow "overfilled but ok" range on the little pressure dial.

With R134a, I don't think there's such thing as "overfilled but ok." Even a little overfilled can cause problems.

 

[AC1DD]

Originally Posted by mclasser
Originally Posted by Silver
is in the yellow "overfilled but ok" range on the little pressure dial.

With R134a, I don't think there's such thing as "overfilled but ok." Even a little overfilled can cause problems.



True R134a systems are VERY sensitive to the amount for correct performance.

 

[Chris142]

If its making noise it won't get any better. Likely already spitting metal into the condenser and orifice tube.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by Silver
It makes noise when running, so I don't think it's the clutch.

It's a whiny, buzzing noise. It blows cold and is in the yellow "overfilled but ok" range on the little pressure dial. When idling it makes a faint sort of puttering sound, like a tiny little pump (ironically!).

I added a 2 oz oil charge with no change.

My question is should I change the compressor out before it fails so that I don't get ground up metal in the system, or can I wait till it fails without that risk?

2002 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan


Replace it now before it sheds metal particles ( that go circulating through the system ) .

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Silver
My question is should I change the compressor out before it fails so that I don't get ground up metal in the system, or can I wait till it fails without that risk?


To get the compressor warranty, most manufacturers require you to replace a bunch of other parts like the condenser and drier at the same time anyway.

And the orifice tube . Can you DIY the change out ?

 

[Nick1994]

Replacing the compressor is probably at least 1/2 the car's value. I'd consider replacing the car when the compressor goes out. Might be a while.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Originally Posted by mclasser
With R134a, I don't think there's such thing as "overfilled but ok." Even a little overfilled can cause problems.


Originally Posted by AC1DD
True R134a systems are VERY sensitive to the amount for correct performance.


Reading the low pressure gauge alone tells you nothing about the level of charge in the system. Doesn't work that way. If you can read the high-side pressure, you can make an educated guess using both low & high pressure readings.

A failing compressor will often manifest as a high reading on the low pressure side, with a low reading on the high pressure side. That might be what is going on here and not a refrigerant level issue, but you can't know for sure without seeing both high and low. If your compressor is making mechanical noises (that is not related to pulley bearing or clutch), then it clearly has an issue that warrants replacement.