Valvoline 20w50 - 4k miles

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Took the bike down through 8 sates, as far south as Georgia. Had 1k miles on the oil before I left. 3k miles later the oils is still in there and shifting perfectly.

I'm considering upgrading to a '18 DL1000, and I'll most likely use the same oil with this experience.
 
Yup, Valvoline doesnt get enough credit. Its a great oil.

Maybe part of the problem is there are no less then 3 different types of Valvoline oil in the 20w50 and same goes for the 10w40. It has an identity problem. :eek:)

Standard automotive 20w50 or high mileage.

Conventional motorcycle 20w50

Synthetic motorcycle 20w50

Which one did you use?

When I owned metric bikes the Conventional 20w50 performed great in my Yamaha V Star 1300 and I posted excellent UOAs here in BITOG back sometime around 2011 to 2013. I always found shifting held up well and the price was under $5 a quart. It became my exclusive oil for that bike.
 
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Don't forget VR-1 20w-50.
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Originally Posted by Garak
Don't forget VR-1 20w-50.
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Works great in a Harley but OP has a shared sump Suzuki.
 
Yes, and I'd think that 20w-50 VR-1 should have some unwanted friction modifiers. I was merely pointing out an extra Valvoline 20w-50 that's out there, not making a recommendation.
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For what it's worth, I have not seen or read of an issue running any flavor of VR-1 in a shared sump engine despite Valvoline stating to the contrary. Anyone have an experience or know someone who has had an issue (clutch slippage) running VR-1 in a shared sump?
 
Thanks Garak I appreciate the thoughts and understand on that as a possibility with VR1. Point being what are those "no-no" friction modifiers? Someone here on the forum may know what the "things" are that don't show up on analysis that make the oil incompatible.

There must be some empirical data points to something different. It has a good sodium count however that would have nothing to do with the clutch slipping. My thought is they really want to push the motorcycle specific oil and this is a way to do that.
 
I'd have no idea what those friction modifiers would be, but I know they won't show up on an ordinary VOA. The important thing to note is that generally speaking, a racing oil is highly friction modified. It may have attractive viscosity and a good dose of ZDDP for those who want it, but the friction modification regime may or may not be a problem in some motorcycles.

Of course, the really obnoxious thing here is that the VR1 is probably the cheapest on the shelf 20w-50 and the cheapest on the shelf conventional outside of sales.
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I've been running Valvoline conventional motorcycle oil in my shared sump Honda CBR (2002 600 f4i) for the past 3 years. Can't say much other than I think the bike likes it.

Sump takes 3.5qts. I put 2qts of 20w50 and 1.5qts of 10w40 in it.

Edit: I have 31k miles on the bike
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Bought the '18 DL1000XT last week, dumped and filled it with the same 20w50. Less dramatic difference in the 1000 due to the hydraulic clutch, but it definitely smoothed out the shifting.

This is the only oil I've run where shifting didn't degrade after 2k miles.
 
Originally Posted by alarmguy
Yup, Valvoline doesnt get enough credit. Its a great oil.

Maybe part of the problem is there are no less then 3 different types of Valvoline oil in the 20w50 and same goes for the 10w40. It has an identity problem. :eek:)

Standard automotive 20w50 or high mileage.

Conventional motorcycle 20w50

Synthetic motorcycle 20w50

Which one did you use?

When I owned metric bikes the Conventional 20w50 performed great in my Yamaha V Star 1300 and I posted excellent UOAs here in BITOG back sometime around 2011 to 2013. I always found shifting held up well and the price was under $5 a quart. It became my exclusive oil for that bike.


I use the conventional 4 stroke motorcycle oil:

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/4-stroke-motorcycle-oil

I bet she shears down to a healthy 15cst after a thousand miles or so. Which is why it continues to shift so well after 4k miles.
 
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