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Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx #5138986 06/20/19 06:51 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Just a quick update on a combo I have been running on my Silverado the last couple of years...

I replaced the pads and rotors around the end of of 2016 with the subject parts. I did it mostly to handle towing a F27PC Formula cruiser...which I only did twice a year here in Iowa for about 50 miles. I only made this trip twice.

Environment:
My truck is driven once a week to make sure everything is working, brakes don't rust, etc. (in winter I drive it more often due to snow)
My truck is normally used to haul stuff to/from home improvement stores, trailers, take our new smaller (25') boat to the lake, etc.
My truck maybe gets 7000 miles per year...most of it on vacation (yearly oil changes with 0w-40 and oversized oil filter for my BITOG friends)
I drive my truck to the mountains where I know how to use the manual shift, and almost never use the brakes on the mountains...

Condition:
I was towing the boat to our local lake (~50 miles, and we have downgraded to a roughly 25' Bowrider two years ago)...I left home and everything seemed fine. Mostly highway trip, but when I got to the lake, I felt grinding enough that my wife even asked what was wrong. I knew right away what it was, launched the boat, enjoyed the day, and then parked the truck to have a brake replacement.

Observations:
Rear brakes were non-drilled, non-slotted premium rotors with the same pads. They are less than 50% worn (yes, I know rears wear slower than fronts)
Front Rotors on the inside were worn to the point you could almost not feel the slots anymore, outside looked ok
Left side inboard pad was worn to the point that the backing material was my braking surface (even wear) - this was source of noise
Right side inboard pad was almost to the same point...
outside pads were 75% worn

Thoughts:
Shortest living rotor/pad combo I have ever run.
Nice to have fade free performance, but not at this much of an expense to life
Odd to have no warning of impending failure...expected squeeking, or SOMETHING to warn me I needed to service my brakes
Odd the inside rotors wore so badly
Braking performance was good...but not stellar. Just meh...but without fade.

Actions:
New pads and rotors
Pads: Autozone Duralast MAX ceramic
Rotors: Autozone Duralast Gold coated rotors (wow, these were new to me...black coating you don't clean off before using?!?!?!?!) - any feedback/comments on these would be great!!!!

Reactions:
I didn't realize how poorly my braking performance had deteriorated until I took it out for the first test drive. Bedded them in with several 60-5 mph stops without stopping, and they feel great! Excited to tow the boat this weekend and see how they do!

Last edited by DriveHard; 06/20/19 07:04 AM.

Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5138990 06/20/19 06:53 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Even though the drilled/slotted rotors on the front wore the pads SUPER fast, and they were in a VERY poor condition on the inside, there was ZERO cracking or otherwise sign of rotor failure. I did learn my lesson and won't use drilled/slotted rotors again...as I believe that is the primary cause of such short brake life in these conditions.


Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5138999 06/20/19 07:11 AM
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atikovi Offline
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Most drilled rotors are bought for cosmetic reasons but yours wearing on one side point to a possible caliper issue. Can't blame the pads or rotors for that? And don't expect premium quality parts from the chain stores. Who even makes Duralast? Probably the lowest bidder from China.

Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: atikovi] #5139006 06/20/19 07:21 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Most drilled rotors are bought for cosmetic reasons but yours wearing on one side point to a possible caliper issue. Can't blame the pads or rotors for that? And don't expect premium quality parts from the chain stores. Who even makes Duralast? Probably the lowest bidder from China.


I'm only a shade tree mechanic, but every single brake pad assembly I have ever pulled off of a vehicle shows the inboard pads wearing slightly faster than the outboard pads. This is not a concern to me.

I had OEM pads and rotors and towed my Formula several times with noted brake fade. When I made the change, there was none...so maybe the drilled/slotted rotors helped here?

When renewing the brakes, the caliper slides, and all components slid perfectly, everything seemed healthy, and I just did a normal brake pack R&R. Really, the braking components are in great shape...I believe it is just a pad/rotor combo discussion.


Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139019 06/20/19 07:45 AM
Joined: Sep 2015
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mk378 Online Content
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"High performance" often means a trade-off of shorter life. But whatever pads / rotors you use they should be wearing at the same rate on the inside and the outside. The inside pad wearing more generally means that the caliper is not sliding freely on its mounts (if it is a single-acting caliper with the piston(s) only on the inside).

Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139043 06/20/19 08:16 AM
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DoubleWasp Offline
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I'm going to guess your pads were mostly the issue. I just got done with 2 years and 45k miles on cross drilled and slotted PowerStops matched up with Hawk LTS pads, doing 30% towing of heavier boats.

Rotors had barely been taken in. This was surprising for such an aggressive pad.

Been using no-name cross drilled and slotted rotors for years without excess wear issues.


07 Lincoln Navigator M1 0w-40/FU
68 Charger R/T / Supercharged 440 VR1/DBL7349
07 Ram 3500 4x4 / Cummins 6.7 /DBL7349
17 Maserati GranTurismo Cabrio
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139059 06/20/19 08:41 AM
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64bawagon Offline
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Excessive inboard pad wear is an indication of a bad caliper that wont release pressure or a slide pin issue causing the caliper to not recenter.


64 Chevy wagon, 10 Jeep Wrangler, 18 Silverado 1/2 ton
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139077 06/20/19 09:14 AM
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Mad_Hatter Offline
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Leave the slotted/drilled rotors to the track guys or the fast and furious types 😂

Stick with coated solid, vented rotors, premium pads and good gripping tires.. that's a winning combo. Maybe a larger rotor if your dimensions allows for it.

Last edited by Mad_Hatter; 06/20/19 09:15 AM.
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139079 06/20/19 09:15 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Slide pins were very lubricated, and slid well with no problems...


Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: Mad_Hatter] #5139106 06/20/19 09:56 AM
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DoubleWasp Offline
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I was a doubter too until the first time I tried a set and found them impervious to the usual braking issues caused by ridiculously wet weather.

CD and slotting adds nothing to the braking experience itself, but they evacuate water extremely well. Since towing big loads in torrential downpours is a given in Florida, I'll take it.


07 Lincoln Navigator M1 0w-40/FU
68 Charger R/T / Supercharged 440 VR1/DBL7349
07 Ram 3500 4x4 / Cummins 6.7 /DBL7349
17 Maserati GranTurismo Cabrio
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139108 06/20/19 09:57 AM
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64bawagon Offline
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The pads must also be free in the caliper bracket. If the shims are rust jacked or crusty the pad will bind in the bracket, especially the inboard.

Watch at the 6 minute mark for this issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqQ6ElP87Jg

Last edited by 64bawagon; 06/20/19 10:07 AM.

64 Chevy wagon, 10 Jeep Wrangler, 18 Silverado 1/2 ton
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: 64bawagon] #5139134 06/20/19 10:42 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Originally Posted by 64bawagon
The pads must also be free in the caliper bracket. If the shims are rust jacked or crusty the pad will bind in the bracket, especially the inboard.

Watch at the 6 minute mark for this issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqQ6ElP87Jg


Pads popped right out, no problem...not my first brake job and everything truly seemed to be on the up and up.

Honestly, my only thought is the inboard splash shield would capture snow/ice in the winter and encourage the inside to rust faster than the outside. Since it can sit for a week or so between operating, there are several times I can feel/hear the pads removing a light rust layer on the initial few brake applications. Guessing this encouraged the inboard side to wear faster.

Even if this is the case, the set wore MUCH faster than the OEM pads/rotors I started with.

Last edited by DriveHard; 06/20/19 10:44 AM.

Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139152 06/20/19 11:19 AM
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Dave9 Offline
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Originally Posted by DriveHard

Reactions:
I didn't realize how poorly my braking performance had deteriorated until I took it out for the first test drive. Bedded them in with several 60-5 mph stops without stopping, and they feel great! Excited to tow the boat this weekend and see how they do!


Seriously you just bedded them in, haven't even worn them in fully and are going to tow a load? Bedded just means the start of good performance, nowhere near normal.

I guess it beats how bad yours were previously but that's nuts to take a risk with new brakes, unless there are no hills. Otherwise you risk glazing them, too much heat over too small a contact area.

Last edited by Dave9; 06/20/19 11:20 AM.
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: Dave9] #5139163 06/20/19 11:30 AM
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DriveHard Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Dave9
Originally Posted by DriveHard

Reactions:
I didn't realize how poorly my braking performance had deteriorated until I took it out for the first test drive. Bedded them in with several 60-5 mph stops without stopping, and they feel great! Excited to tow the boat this weekend and see how they do!


Seriously you just bedded them in, haven't even worn them in fully and are going to tow a load? Bedded just means the start of good performance, nowhere near normal.

I guess it beats how bad yours were previously but that's nuts to take a risk with new brakes, unless there are no hills. Otherwise you risk glazing them, too much heat over too small a contact area.



Thank you for being concerned with me and my fellow motorist' safety...

I am driving my truck to and from work both today and tomorrow, and making sure I give my brakes a full workout while I do it...trying both hard and soft stops to make sure things are working correctly.

What is full brake wear in? Do I need 500 miles, 1000 miles? 10 hard stops or 100? Are you doubting I don't have the ability to fully actuate ABS until I bring my truck and trailer to a stop? Concerned I might have to push on the pedal just a bit harder to get the braking effort I need?

I would not tow my boat and family to the lake if I doubted anything regarding our safety.


Smile, it increases your face value
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth mod heavy (my DD)
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio TI Sport (wife's)
2011 Silverado Crew Cab LT 6.2L/6spd (tow pig)
2007 Nissan Xterra (trail toy)
Re: Powerstop drilled/slotted + Wagner OEx [Re: DriveHard] #5139178 06/20/19 11:50 AM
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Dave9 Offline
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Full wear in takes a minimum of a couple hundred miles, unless you are a bad driver who constantly has to stomp on the brakes, -OR- does so deliberately to break them in faster.

Being able to activate ABS only tells you breakaway force of tires unloaded, not the performance hauling a larger load, and not the heat density on the smaller area making contact.

It's not doubt that matters. Doubt is subjective. Breaking in brake pads is objective.

You're doing it wrong and if you win that gamble, again it's better than the prior state of the brakes but going from bad to mediocre brakes, is not as good a solution as most have which is going from mediocre to good, before towing.

Last edited by Dave9; 06/20/19 11:51 AM.
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