Bike chains

[CourierDriver]

We have all seen it...the rusty chain that for whatever reason seems to run forever...left in the rain, dirt and grime and they keep going----amazing.

So, for all of us that are chain cleaning nerds, whats the latest on chain cleaning and oiling techniques??

 

[wwillson]

I've tried many different techniques and have settled on what for me is the biggest bang for the buck.

I mount the bike on my mechanics mount and hold the chain with a rag as I turn the crank. This cleans the dirt and grime from the chain. Then spray with a soy based spray lube and let it sit for a few minutes. Next, use the same technique with a clean spot on the rag to remove all the excess lube, so the excess doesn't attract dirt.

This method is quick and inexpensive, requiring no special tools. My bike tool box is full of specialty tools and I don't want any more.

Road chains last about 1500 miles and chains that get limestone screening dust last about 800 miles. Rear cassettes last about 5000 miles for road and about 2500 miles for trail. Chain rings last almost forever, at least 15,000 miles

 

[Cujet]

While it's interesting to claim that we've all seen old rusty chains that still work just fine, the reality is that chain wear is a well known quantity.

My best results came from removing the OEM lube in an ultrasonic cleaner, and applying the motorcycle version of Bel-Ray clean (it's contains only zinc) chain lube, followed up by any light oil. Corrosion-X is one that works well, as does Tri-Flow.

Then cleaning in the ultrasonic or via degreaser-detergent and the hose after every few rides. Reapply after.

Florida is pretty clean riding, with only a bit of sand to accelerate wear.

 

[Rat407]

What seems to work for me is to put my bike on the bike stand and then put Dawn dishwashing on the change. Work it in with a tooth brush and let it sit for a few minutes. Then go back over it with the tooth brush while turning the crank. Rinse and repeat until the suds coming off are white.

As for lube, I have been using AMSOIL's chain lube. I put a rag around the chain and have someone turn the crank while I spray the chain in the rag. This keeps it from spraying everywhere. Then I wipe off excess and let it dry for a few hours before I ride.

I got 8k miles out of my original chain and rear sprocket. Cost me $135 to have a new chain and sprocket.

 

[supton]

I was taking mine off and shaking in a bottle of mineral spirits, but it seemed like a lot of work for little gain--maybe the chain would last 1,500 miles instead of 1,000. But the amount of effort spent... I only do about 2k per year and I only run 9 speeds, and last time I bought chains they were down below $20 each. At that point I plan to just keep adding oil and then if they get nasty just replace.

When chains get old and "stretched" they can take out cassettes and chainrings. Which might be pricey. Hence I replace chains around 1/16" of wear. But usually the rollers get stupid worn and loose by then.

I suspect I ride where there is a lot of dust. My chains get dirty fast. One of my road bikes does at least 10% of its miles on dirt roads and that seems to do a number on them too.

 

[BISCUT]

Put the bikes in a stand and wipe with a rag. Then a cheap plastic brush cleaner with orange degreaser and relube. Done.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted by CourierDriver
We have all seen it...the rusty chain that for whatever reason seems to run forever...left in the rain, dirt and grime and they keep going----amazing.
... whats the latest on chain cleaning and oiling techniques??
I suspect that chain is somewhat mythical. It may survive a lot of years or a lot of rains, but not really many miles without extreme wear.

After trying various other strategies (including melted wax blended with SAE 90 gear oil), my recipe for the last many years involves a synthetic motorcycle chain oil diluted with ATF, applied sparingly only into each joint. Then I wipe off any oil from the surface. That procedure admittedly takes a while, but lasts a long time between applications, and doesn't attract so much grit. My chains last much longer than most people's. Chain life is remarkably inconsistent, even using the same make and model chain and same lubrication strategy.

 

[Linctex]

I use used motor oil, and an acid brush (or small paint brush).

I have never used anything different since 1977.

 

[javacontour]

I hit mine about once a month with non-chlorinated brake-clean and then lube it.

It does a pretty good job of getting all the nasties out of the cassette and jockey wheels and doesn't harm any components.

 

[UG_Passat]

Once a year, I take off the chain, soak it in a orange oil based degreaser in a old glass tomato sauce jar, shake it every now and then.

Rinse, then soak in Boeshield in another jar.

The Park Tool chain cleaner tool makes too much of a mess.

 

[Kamele0N]

+

+

+

 

[dadto2]

WD-40 and a shop rag. Spray, wipe clean. Re-apply the lube.

Keeping a chain clean won't necessarily increase the chain's life, but it will keep it shifting well. A dirty chain loses it's lateral flex; at best you'll experience poor shifting, at worst, you'll drop the chain when you are out of the saddle and shifting to sprint... (Ask me how I know that

)

Get a chain stretch gauge and replace it when it it out of spec. Running a stretched chain will chew up the rear cassette, and you'll wind up replacing both. My 11 speed chains run about $45-50 and replacing my Ultegra 11 speed cassette would cost about $80+, excluding labor.

By the way, your weight and power will factor into the chain life more than anything else. Some of the smaller guys I ride with can go close to 10k on one chain. I'm 220 lbs and put down lots of watts, and I only get 1500 - 2000 miles before it stretches too much.

 

[Spike T]

Dadto2, WD40 a rather poor lubricant, at best. Your power output not near an issue compared to the WD. Try 1 part synthetic motor oil, 3 parts odorless mineral spirits. Drop on each link, run chain through shop/paper towel at least a few times, let dry overnight before riding.

 

[CourierDriver]

I can see by all of the advice there could be 500 ways to do chain care, but the ones listed so far would work,IMHO>

We are mainly weekend riders in a vacant college parking lot that ties into the riverwalk along the Tennessee River,,very flat riding...easy on my 73 year old body,lol

 

[dadto2]

Originally Posted by Spike T
Dadto2, WD40 a rather poor lubricant, at best. Your power output not near an issue compared to the WD. Try 1 part synthetic motor oil, 3 parts odorless mineral spirits. Drop on each link, run chain through shop/paper towel at least a few times, let dry overnight before riding.


This is correct... Maybe I wasn't clear. The WD40 is the solvent to clean the chain. I assumed that reader would know that I didn't intend to lube with a solvent. The lube I use is Finish Line, whichever variety is appropriate for the conditions. (Wet, dry, dusty, etc.)

 

[supton]

I did come across a post (on a bike forum) from someone who did use WD40 as a chain lube. It was on his winter bike that went 5 or maybe 10 miles through snow and salt and whatnot on his commute during winter. He just hosed it down every night. Worked for him, but as you can guess, it was not your typical usage.

I have a bottle of White Lightning "wet" lube but I swear that just means it is water soluble, as it's always gone after any ride that has moisture.

 

[totegoat]

5,000 miles on my chain and no need to replace. I use WD-40 Silicone Lubricant Spray.

 

[CourierDriver]

O the days of the 50's when we used Dads oil can oiler with 30wgt oil and squirted the chain..worked for us..

 

[Lawn_Care]

Originally Posted by CourierDriver
O the days of the 50's when we used Dads oil can oiler with 30wgt oil and squirted the chain..worked for us..


100% Correct, and that method still works just as well today.
That's exactly what I use on my Trek Hybrid and on my Honda Super Cub. (definitely not a bicycle)

I bought a Goldenrod 720 Oiler at Rural King a while back, and filled it with 80w90 Gear Oil.
Spray chain with WD-40, clean it with a plastic brush (harbor freight) and wipe with a rag, then allow to dry.
Oil each link with the oiler, wipe off chain with a rag after the oil soaks in for a few minutes.

 

[Dyusik]

I just use a bottle of 85w140 for both motorcycle and bicycles. Got a bike with a chain that looked like sponge from rust. Lube it up, let my kid ride it for a day, looks almost new. Reapply, wipe the grime with excess, and ride. I don't pedal much, it will last me aeons.