How much is an AC service where ya"all are?

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I'm not talking about adding with a can but a whole service. First. I have $20k worth of AC machines. I recently had to buy a $1700 refrigerant identifier because my old one broke. No way will I work on a system without knowing what's in it! Plus its the law that I have and use one.

Don't forget about permits,business license, rent etc. A typical recharge on a small car is about $150-$175. This includes new Schrader valves,oil,evacuate and charge. Also includes the leak detector both electronic and dye.

A big suburban would include a new orifice tube too. Those hold 4lbs of r134a. Figure $200-$225 for one of those.


People are beating my door down at these prices! I guess pep boys and Firestone are much more. We do get the occasional bonehead that tells us to pound sand or to do bad things to myself. Don't need those customers anyway. They can't comprehend that we completely service the system and don't just guess with a can of AC pro.

BTW I love those cans of AC pro! They always over fill the system. Job security!
 
I am not clear as to what a "whole service" is. The vehicle should stay filled with refrigerant. Nothing is needed on an annual basis unless its lost some refrigerant. Maybe clean out the condenser from leaves or pine needles or insects?

If the vehicle is low on refrigerant it has a leak that needs to be found & fixed before the system can be properly filled. Could be an O-ring or a corroded condenser or many other things.

So is a "whole service" the initial cost plus the cost to find and fix any leaks?
 
My Ridgeline was low on refrigerant and found a local shop to evacuate and recharge it for $49,00 2 years ago. He could not find any leaks and still works today. The price is still $49.00
 
Most dealers are 2 hours labor at the shop rate. So that is usually $300-$400.

My mobile guy charges me $100-$150, wholesale rate.
 
I am assuming when you say AC service, its just an inspection and recharge.

I don't know where exactly in these states the above 3 are, but around me, just the inspection is $100. At the moment, my 2006 Sentra's AC is not working, there is some large leak. To identify the leak, its about $150. Depending on what it is, the cost to fix. To recharge the system, it will be about $400. Since my AC is out of order for more than 2 years, I was told, it will be 1K, give or take. I am putting that 1K for the next car.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
I am not clear as to what a "whole service" is. The vehicle should stay filled with refrigerant.
A whole service is an evac and charge oil schraders etc. Not just some yahoo that's guessing with a can of R134a. As for leaks. Your right..... But no system is perfect. They all seep a little from various parts.
Once a car reaches 5 or so years old they have Seeped enough out that they need to be recharged. The guys that never turn the AC on between October and May are the ones that get a rude surprise ion the first warm day. Some leaks are so small they can't be found even with Dye and an electronic leak detector.

A Small car may only hold 14oz. After a few years it may have lost 3-4oz. That's a big amount for such a small system. A 4lb system would still work ok 3-4oz low.
 
My friend just had his Tacoma serviced at the Toyota dealership. $269 for evacuation, leak check, inspection and recharge. It was cutting out after about an hour and wouldn't work again until the next day, turns out it was over charged. It now works flawless again. This was in the Metro Indianapolis area.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
I recently had to buy a $1700 refrigerant identifier because my old one broke. No way will I work on a system without knowing what's in it!


If you're going to evac and recharge, who cares what's in it? You're putting in new freon anyway. I have some nice quality A/C equipment, vac pump, scale, gauge set, drum heater, electronic leak detector, etc. that does everything the machines do except manually so I have to cringe spending $150 on basic A/C charge unless they work a full hour on it. Just started to drive a 2002 Honda that was sitting 5 years and A/C dead. Barely any freon in it. Connected the vac pump for 15 minutes and checked if it held vacuum for another 15. It did. Vacuumed again for 2 hours total and filled with R134. Total cost, $3.50. A/C blows ice cold. How long do you vacuum for and do you use a micron gauge? If a shop doesn't vacuum for at least an hour or use a micron gauge to monitor the vacuum level, I probably wouldn't use them myself.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Chris142
I recently had to buy a $1700 refrigerant identifier because my old one broke. No way will I work on a system without knowing what's in it!


If you're going to evac and recharge, who cares what's in it? You're putting in new freon anyway. I have some nice quality A/C equipment, vac pump, scale, gauge set, drum heater, electronic leak detector, etc. that does everything the machines do except manually so I have to cringe spending $150 on basic A/C charge unless they work a full hour on it. Just started to drive a 2002 Honda that was sitting 5 years and A/C dead. Barely any freon in it. Connected the vac pump for 15 minutes and checked if it held vacuum for another 15. It did. Vacuumed again for 2 hours total and filled with R134. Total cost, $3.50. A/C blows ice cold. How long do you vacuum for and do you use a micron gauge? If a shop doesn't vacuum for at least an hour or use a micron gauge to monitor the vacuum level, I probably wouldn't use them myself.



Because the wrong refrigerant will screw up his equipment. And ruin what refrigerant he has. They recover the refrigerant, they don't vent it to the atmosphere.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by spasm3
Because the wrong refigerant will screw up his equipment. And ruin what refrigerant he has. They recover the refrigerant, they don't vent it to the atmosphere.


They recover but don't reuse it, do they?
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Chris142
I recently had to buy a $1700 refrigerant identifier because my old one broke. No way will I work on a system without knowing what's in it!


If you're going to evac and recharge, who cares what's in it? You're putting in new freon anyway. I have some nice quality A/C equipment, vac pump, scale, gauge set, drum heater, electronic leak detector, etc. that does everything the machines do except manually so I have to cringe spending $150 on basic A/C charge unless they work a full hour on it. Just started to drive a 2002 Honda that was sitting 5 years and A/C dead. Barely any freon in it. Connected the vac pump for 15 minutes and checked if it held vacuum for another 15. It did. Vacuumed again for 2 hours total and filled with R134. Total cost, $3.50. A/C blows ice cold. How long do you vacuum for and do you use a micron gauge? If a shop doesn't vacuum for at least an hour or use a micron gauge to monitor the vacuum level, I probably wouldn't use them myself.



Because the wrong refrigerant will screw up his equipment. And ruin what refrigerant he has. They recover the refrigerant, they don't vent it to the atmosphere.


Not to mention the shade tree hacks that use refrigerant with "leak stop" in them...clogs up the machines and can damage a sterile car which is using the machine too.
 
Around my area Louisville, KY it's under $100 for a standard service. Vacuum system and refill. More if work is needed such as seals, etc. It's been a few years but cost me $300 to replace a compressor that was rebuilt including installation. Prices do vary widely with who you take it to. Dealers usually won't touch it for under $1,000. Usually something like the teflon coated lines need to be replaced. I think it's a BS call to see if you know what they are talking about.
 
Originally Posted by spk2000
Around my area Louisville, KY it's under $100 for a standard service. Vacuum system and refill. More if work is needed such as seals, etc. It's been a few years but cost me $300 to replace a compressor that was rebuilt including installation. Prices do vary widely with who you take it to. Dealers usually won't touch it for under $1,000. Usually something like the teflon coated lines need to be replaced. I think it's a BS call to see if you know what they are talking about.

There is a semi-recent TSB from Toyota which says to replace every component and line in the system if there is any evidence of contamination. Flushing is no longer allowed or acceptable.
 
My last serves was $90 for an orifice tube, pull a vacuum and waiting half an hour before filling by weight. A tree stump had liberated the previous charge. I had changed the condenser and dryer before taking it in.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by spasm3
Because the wrong refigerant will screw up his equipment. And ruin what refrigerant he has. They recover the refrigerant, they don't vent it to the atmosphere.


They recover but don't reuse it, do they?

Yes the machine recycles it and it's then stored in the tank inside the machine until put into a car.
 
Ok I'm going to play devils advocate here. I have 3 cars, a 2007, 2008 and a 2010....so all are fairly old. None have ever been serviced. All three still cool decently but far from ice cold. I'm going under the assumption that all basically don't have a gross leak since they all cool. But as we all know, every system leaks some and at 10 years old, they are all probably a bit low on coolant. So what's wrong with going the shade tree hack and adding just a few ounces each. If they improve, probably just stop there. What's the worst that can happen? I end up in the garage for a service?
 
Originally Posted by philipp10
Ok I'm going to play devils advocate here. I have 3 cars, a 2007, 2008 and a 2010....so all are fairly old. None have ever been serviced. All three still cool decently but far from ice cold. I'm going under the assumption that all basically don't have a gross leak since they all cool. But as we all know, every system leaks some and at 10 years old, they are all probably a bit low on coolant. So what's wrong with going the shade tree hack and adding just a few ounces each. If they improve, probably just stop there. What's the worst that can happen? I end up in the garage for a service?



Where I live, shops advertise the hack job for $39.99, a 15oz can of 134a is about $5 retail. It take all of five minutes to put a hose on the low pressure side and guess with a non temperature compensated gauge. Best case scenario, your paying $400 an hour to improperly repair your car. Worse case, he used stop leak, your compressor fails and a $90 job becomes a $2000 system replacement.
 
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