Got my mom's 2003 buick park ave 3.8 base. It has 98k and always dealer serviced with acdelco 5w30 syn-blend. It has no leaks, no smoke.Would it be ok to switch "cold turkey" to M1 10-30 syn HM or does it have too many miles?Or would it work out better to gradually switch to Full-Syn-HM like first change the oil with 3.5 qts of 10-30 Syn-Blend & 1 qt M1 10-30 Syn HM? The oil capacity is 4.5 qts. This is such a good/nice car, I simply don't want to start any crap with this gd engine but on the other hand I would love to get 300k mi with this nice full-size car.Â
16 y/o car w/98k, switch oil?
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If it's not broken, I wouldn't change it! The 3.8 might be one of the toughest engines GM ever made-I would put more effort into maintaining the transaxle/transmission and Dexcool cooling system if it was mine. You're not in the Rust Belt-it might last the rest of your life!
This is an engine that's good with extended oci if there ever was one. I've seen one go 50k miles on a conventional bulk oil, just topped up until the oil filter rusted through. It was a taxi, 05 Impala with 200k in it. I drove it for a bit when I tried taxi driving as a second job for a few months. It ran great. Only issue it had with the engine was a starter and a harmonic balancer. It rusted out in the back because of a water leak and got retired early.
You can use whatever oil you want but if you use a full synthetic you can go longer between oil changes and high mileage isn't a bad idea because leaks are likely at this age.
You can use whatever oil you want but if you use a full synthetic you can go longer between oil changes and high mileage isn't a bad idea because leaks are likely at this age.
Just my 2¢:
As groovy as synthetics are if there's no compelling reason to use a synthetic such as a finicky PCV system or extra hot zones (oil pan near a turbo unit) I'd stick with good mineral based oil at "normal" change intervals.
This is because I'm a fan of "out with the old" regarding engine dirt.
If monitoring your oil is a source of fun then have at IT ALL. Extending oil changes, seeking the best filters etc.
Do remember, switching to synthetics does have that break in period where the car will use some oil. This has been my experience. Someone will be along shortly to state I am nuts....which is completely beside the point.
As groovy as synthetics are if there's no compelling reason to use a synthetic such as a finicky PCV system or extra hot zones (oil pan near a turbo unit) I'd stick with good mineral based oil at "normal" change intervals.
This is because I'm a fan of "out with the old" regarding engine dirt.
If monitoring your oil is a source of fun then have at IT ALL. Extending oil changes, seeking the best filters etc.
Do remember, switching to synthetics does have that break in period where the car will use some oil. This has been my experience. Someone will be along shortly to state I am nuts....which is completely beside the point.
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All the GM 3.8's we had LOVED Pennzoil products. Ran the smoothest on them. If I'd known more about Quaker State back then that's what I would've used. Since it's already had a partial synth oil,I'd go full synth. QSUD 10W30 with an AC Delco filter would be my choice.
I have an '03 Park Ave with 187000 miles. Ran on M1 5-30 at 6000 mile intervals most of it's life, with a lot of cold weather short tripping. Engine runs great, doesn't use oil. But the trans is not doing so well. So, I could have gone with 10000 mile changes, or cheaper conventional oil, would have made no difference to the life of the car. Buy a trans pan with a drain bolt, and do frequent drain and fills.
Thank you!
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What elefino said. And you can buy a Transmission pan with a drain plug here: https://zzperformance.com/collections/3800/Transmission-&-drivetrain#productOutput I change my Trans. fluid ~30-50K intervals. A shifft kit will abolish the 2nd-3rd gear sluggishness.
Take my advice from a high mile 3800 owner: if it doesn't leak oil, don't put HM oil in it. Scoffers gonna scoff but don't do it. There's nothing magic about the stuff for high mile engines other than the seal "conditioner." Regular M1 10W30 is perfect.
As said, the trans is the bigger worry. It needs fluid changed every 30K. If it's neglected, it will start being sluggish, banging and slipping. And if it has the plastic coolant elbows at the belt tensioner, they will crack and leak if they haven't already. Replace with metal ones.
As said, the trans is the bigger worry. It needs fluid changed every 30K. If it's neglected, it will start being sluggish, banging and slipping. And if it has the plastic coolant elbows at the belt tensioner, they will crack and leak if they haven't already. Replace with metal ones.
Just go with Quaker Statd HM or Maxlife and be done. The interior and transmission are gonna be your biggest worry.
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My dad's 1990 Olds Delta 88 had almost 600,000 miles on it before he gave it away when he got a new vehicle. All on PYB 10W30 every 3000 miles. The exterior looked like an almost 600K car but the interior still was mint. It went to around 450K on the original transmission.
Back when my gf had a 1998 Olds 88,I tried M1 10W30 in it,and it ran rough and noisy,especially at startup. That's the first time I ever in my life heard a GM 3.8 tick upon startup. Went back to PYB and it was smooth and silent again.
Back when my gf had a 1998 Olds 88,I tried M1 10W30 in it,and it ran rough and noisy,especially at startup. That's the first time I ever in my life heard a GM 3.8 tick upon startup. Went back to PYB and it was smooth and silent again.
A lot of people here seem to think cars don't rust in the South. Let me give you some news: humidity rusts cars faster than salt.
Originally Posted by Or
Waiting until seals leak to start an older car on HM oil is a bit like waiting until you get cancer to stop smoking.
If we must use bad analogies, it would be more like taking chemotherapy when you don't have cancer.
Waiting until seals leak to start an older car on HM oil is a bit like waiting until you get cancer to stop smoking.
If we must use bad analogies, it would be more like taking chemotherapy when you don't have cancer.
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