One spark plug won't come out.
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Originally Posted by forkian
PB Blaster
Originally Posted by talest
WD-40 is too weak for this.
One method nobody seems to have ever heard of is mixing them all, equal parts. Liquid Wrench and the Kroil, could leave the WD-40 out. Or straight up Acetone mixed with some auto trans fluid. Either the equal-part blends of everything or the acetone and auto trans fluid are much much much better options on penetrating liquid. You are on a head on a car with porcelain etc so while heat would help this, warmed up engine vs cold .. you probably are not advised to put heat to it. No, do not do that.
Is your nation's capital not in the rust belt? I cringed when I read using WD as a penetrant unless it is their penetrant formula. PB Blaster!
PB Blaster
Originally Posted by talest
WD-40 is too weak for this.
One method nobody seems to have ever heard of is mixing them all, equal parts. Liquid Wrench and the Kroil, could leave the WD-40 out. Or straight up Acetone mixed with some auto trans fluid. Either the equal-part blends of everything or the acetone and auto trans fluid are much much much better options on penetrating liquid. You are on a head on a car with porcelain etc so while heat would help this, warmed up engine vs cold .. you probably are not advised to put heat to it. No, do not do that.
Is your nation's capital not in the rust belt? I cringed when I read using WD as a penetrant unless it is their penetrant formula. PB Blaster!
Originally Posted by Astro14
You've got carbon on the threads. Don't just crank this out, soak it, tighten it back up, and loosen again. You're breaking up the carbon and allowing it to work loose. If it gets hard to turn while removing again, just run it back in a turn or two, then continue to loosen.
By the way, WD-40 is a terrible penetrant for this purpose. Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
This. Tap the spark plug wrench in both directions. When it feels like it has broken free, continue to work the wrench in both directions,more travel each time. Add more penetrant after it breaks free, and as you go along.
Use antiseize on the new ones.
You've got carbon on the threads. Don't just crank this out, soak it, tighten it back up, and loosen again. You're breaking up the carbon and allowing it to work loose. If it gets hard to turn while removing again, just run it back in a turn or two, then continue to loosen.
By the way, WD-40 is a terrible penetrant for this purpose. Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
This. Tap the spark plug wrench in both directions. When it feels like it has broken free, continue to work the wrench in both directions,more travel each time. Add more penetrant after it breaks free, and as you go along.
Use antiseize on the new ones.
Originally Posted by dishdude
The plugs have been replaced before so there's also a chance it's crossthreaded. My suggestion is leave it alone.
+1, esp if this car is a flip.
The plugs have been replaced before so there's also a chance it's crossthreaded. My suggestion is leave it alone.
+1, esp if this car is a flip.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by atikovi
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
Both NGK and Denso both say not to use any anti-seize and I even emailed one of them (don't remember which) to see if they'd kinda hint in a roundabout way something like "it's not necessary, but it won't hurt anything" (wink, wink) but he repeated their stance: no anti-seize. We still put some on but a very, very small amount.
Yep, but the NGK and Denso guy never show up to help get the darn things out.
Originally Posted by atikovi
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
Both NGK and Denso both say not to use any anti-seize and I even emailed one of them (don't remember which) to see if they'd kinda hint in a roundabout way something like "it's not necessary, but it won't hurt anything" (wink, wink) but he repeated their stance: no anti-seize. We still put some on but a very, very small amount.
Yep, but the NGK and Denso guy never show up to help get the darn things out.
Ford has issues with removing plugs from the 4.6 & 5.4L engines and they came out with a procedure for removal. It's been posted here before and I think it could be of some help. One thing, I would only try removing with a cold engine.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
Originally Posted by Vaca
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
I've heard it's good but PB Blaster is most well known and ubiquitous. I've witnessed PB Blaster creep out of a sealed sandwich bag that was resting right side up in a garbage can. Acetone/atf is better but doesn't come in a spray can. If 50/50 acetone/atf does not work, get the torch out.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
I've heard it's good but PB Blaster is most well known and ubiquitous. I've witnessed PB Blaster creep out of a sealed sandwich bag that was resting right side up in a garbage can. Acetone/atf is better but doesn't come in a spray can. If 50/50 acetone/atf does not work, get the torch out.
Removed the WD40, wasn't getting any better after 5 hours, and put in Kroil. These plugs have a really long thread.
![[Linked Image]](http://www.fototime.com/FD0F2746B6EAF3F/large.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Originally Posted by Vaca
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
I think he is saying to use liquid wrench or some true penetrating fluid, not wd40.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Soak it something other than WD40. Liquid Wrench, etc - a proper penetrating fluid.
Isn't Liquid Wrench a good penetrating fluid? What do you know of that's better? I'd love to get the old blade off a nice Honda mower I have and so far I haven't been able to do it.
I think he is saying to use liquid wrench or some true penetrating fluid, not wd40.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liguid..
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liguid..
Originally Posted by talest
Originally Posted by KrisZ
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liquid..
The PDF file that Sayjac linked is a good resource on that.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liquid..
The PDF file that Sayjac linked is a good resource on that.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by talest
Originally Posted by KrisZ
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liquid..
The PDF file that Sayjac linked is a good resource on that.
It pertains to a totally different problem, although it is spark plug related. Those Fords didn't have a problem with spark plug threads, but the electrode shield being stuck in the head and breaking from the rest of the plug during removal. Hence they don't recommend the back and forth while the plug is being soaked.
For normal plugs, the back and forth action will speed up penetrant action.
Originally Posted by talest
Originally Posted by KrisZ
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Was thinking this. Think it is too tight, then there is that crush ring also, that prevents any liquid from entering? It will well up pretty well in that spark plug hole or well, but it won't go down unless slightly loosened, that spark plug apparatus is designed to keep out liquid..
The PDF file that Sayjac linked is a good resource on that.
It pertains to a totally different problem, although it is spark plug related. Those Fords didn't have a problem with spark plug threads, but the electrode shield being stuck in the head and breaking from the rest of the plug during removal. Hence they don't recommend the back and forth while the plug is being soaked.
For normal plugs, the back and forth action will speed up penetrant action.
I have a set for the MGM 4.6 2V in my sig, I've wondered if a weak impact, like my old 1/4" Milawaukee Power Plus, tapping away at a heavily soaked stuck plug would be a better idea than cranking away by hand on it?
Originally Posted by KrisZ
It pertains to a totally different problem, although it is spark plug related. Those Fords didn't have a problem with spark plug threads, but the electrode shield being stuck in the head and breaking from the rest of the plug during removal. Hence they don't recommend the back and forth while the plug is being soaked.
For normal plugs, the back and forth action will speed up penetrant action.
Oops sorry, I misunderstood.
It pertains to a totally different problem, although it is spark plug related. Those Fords didn't have a problem with spark plug threads, but the electrode shield being stuck in the head and breaking from the rest of the plug during removal. Hence they don't recommend the back and forth while the plug is being soaked.
For normal plugs, the back and forth action will speed up penetrant action.
Oops sorry, I misunderstood.
How about a shot of Sea Foam on the spark plug? It should help soften the carbon deposits in the threads.
Originally Posted by atikovi
These plugs have a really long thread.
I don't think they're much different than "modern" plugs. I don't remember if it was the plugs for the Accord or G35 or maybe the Fusion, but the threaded portion was really, really long. At least compared to plugs I've seen in years past.
These plugs have a really long thread.
I don't think they're much different than "modern" plugs. I don't remember if it was the plugs for the Accord or G35 or maybe the Fusion, but the threaded portion was really, really long. At least compared to plugs I've seen in years past.
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