I have a 2017 Fusion that is kept outside. I was thinking of using a clay bar kit before waxing it. I've never done it before so I want something easy to use and close to fool proof. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Clay bar kit recommendations
- Thread starter jcartwright99
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go for a synthetic - either nano skin or mothers speed 2.0.
Any clay bar will do, I normally just get whatever is on sale. The purpose of clay bar is to remove all the dirt and grim that can't be washed away. The crucial part is how the clay is applied, not the brand.
Use a small chunk, around the size slightly bigger than a quarter and always fold the "dirty side" inward, so that you have the cleanest possible side touching the paint. Fold as often as you can and keep the surface lubricated, you can use the spray detailer, soap water, or even just plain tab water but that's me.
Don't need to put too much pressure into the paint, remember the purpose of this is to remove the dirt and grim. Once you've dropped the clay on the ground you can toss it and take another piece, trust me you will drop it.
Use a small chunk, around the size slightly bigger than a quarter and always fold the "dirty side" inward, so that you have the cleanest possible side touching the paint. Fold as often as you can and keep the surface lubricated, you can use the spray detailer, soap water, or even just plain tab water but that's me.
Don't need to put too much pressure into the paint, remember the purpose of this is to remove the dirt and grim. Once you've dropped the clay on the ground you can toss it and take another piece, trust me you will drop it.
A clay mitt is another option. clay mitt vs clay bar
I think the clay bar kits are a rip-off. You generally get a small bar of clay and a spray bottle of juice and maybe a microfiber towel. You really don't need the special clay bar juice. Soapy water works just as well in my experience. My favorite clay bars are Meguiar's C2000 and Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay. Another tip that might help you: wash the vehicle with a bug sponge before you use the clay bar; it will remove stuff like tar and dried bugs without scratching the paint and make the clay step easier.
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I've been using Griot's. I bought a tub of their clay years ago and am still using it today.
Clay is clay IMO. I'd just get whatever's cheapest and use a good lube.
Claying is more about the elbow grease than anything else. There's no magic clay out there that'll help with that.
Clay is clay IMO. I'd just get whatever's cheapest and use a good lube.
Claying is more about the elbow grease than anything else. There's no magic clay out there that'll help with that.
Originally Posted by oilpsi2high
here's no magic clay out there that'll help with that.
Why sure there is.
![[Linked Image]](https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server4900/f4083/products/52517/images/58551/FIB2200__31870.1372014952.1280.1280.jpg "[Linked Image]")
here's no magic clay out there that'll help with that.
Why sure there is.
This
Clay Bar Towel, AutoCare Fine Grade Microfiber Clay Towel Automotive Detailing Towel Clay Bar Alternative for Car Detailing, Creative Gift-Blue, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KWP6HD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_n-xaDb9VH16AT
Workd great.
Workd great.
I used the mothers clay bar kit when I did the Cherokee. It had alot of industrial plant grime all over it. I first used a soap that removes traffic film. So not your typical "preserves wax" soap. You'll want something to strip anything on it off. I then used the kit to clay bar it. Probably should have used an iron out product first though as I could see some rust in the paint.
It's really not to hard once you start. I like the spray bottle detailer more than soapy water. Light pressure, basically just gliding the clay on the surface; use lots of lube and you will develop a "feel". Its sticks a bit to the dirty areas and then glides smooth once it's clean.
After that I had to wash it again because I had black industrial goo all over in streaks on the white paint that was stuck in the clear coat.
Followed up with a compound, polish, and wax.
Car looked great and only took 8 hrs for everything! Lol
Did it by hand and my shoulder wouldn't really move the day after.
It's really not to hard once you start. I like the spray bottle detailer more than soapy water. Light pressure, basically just gliding the clay on the surface; use lots of lube and you will develop a "feel". Its sticks a bit to the dirty areas and then glides smooth once it's clean.
After that I had to wash it again because I had black industrial goo all over in streaks on the white paint that was stuck in the clear coat.
Followed up with a compound, polish, and wax.
Car looked great and only took 8 hrs for everything! Lol
Did it by hand and my shoulder wouldn't really move the day after.
I just found an old blue Clay Magic bar in the cupboard that had been there for a decade or two. I used it to clay an older truck last Friday. It worked great and held together great, but when I got done, I looked like I had murdered a Smurf. Took a day or so before the blue die came out of my hands.
Haven't used the synthetic clay mitts or bonnets yet, I have about a lifetime's worth of Mother's and Griot's Garage clay left over, so I'll probably never get to it. As was mentioned above, clay is clay, with the exception you should look for the fine stuff, and don't get the more abrasive kind like the red Clay Magic unless you want to polish out a lot of fine scratches after claying.
I've had good luck with Mother's. I echo the recommendation to use car wash soap at a high concentrate mixed with water in a sprayer. I had a lot of Chemical Guys clay lube on hand, so I used about 25 ounces of that and it worked great. Whatever lube you use, put on way too much, then spray it again. It will help you to not drop the clay bar, after which you have to throw it away if it hits the ground.
Haven't used the synthetic clay mitts or bonnets yet, I have about a lifetime's worth of Mother's and Griot's Garage clay left over, so I'll probably never get to it. As was mentioned above, clay is clay, with the exception you should look for the fine stuff, and don't get the more abrasive kind like the red Clay Magic unless you want to polish out a lot of fine scratches after claying.
I've had good luck with Mother's. I echo the recommendation to use car wash soap at a high concentrate mixed with water in a sprayer. I had a lot of Chemical Guys clay lube on hand, so I used about 25 ounces of that and it worked great. Whatever lube you use, put on way too much, then spray it again. It will help you to not drop the clay bar, after which you have to throw it away if it hits the ground.
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For our next detailing of 2 vehicles here...we're going to try the Meguiar's Professional Clay Bar product (although the regular one works well).
Meguiar's Professional Clay Bar - Amazon
Meguiar's Professional Clay Bar - Amazon
Originally Posted by user52165
From a long time former clay bar fan:
Nanoskin is the way to go.
This!!!!
From a long time former clay bar fan:
Nanoskin is the way to go.
This!!!!
I ended up going with Mother's speed clay 2.0. I did it while I washed the car. I really liked the results. I recommend anyone to give claying a try.
FWIW: I've used Chemical Guys Synthetic clay block and 16oz clay lube (sold as a kit) to good effect on two cars thus far. Great thing about the synthetic clay is that WHEN (not if) you drop it, you can clean if off pretty well and continue on. The block makes it sure easy to use and applies the correct pressure as well.
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