Honda Insight. Two of them I got out but were very tight. Yes, engine stone cold. Third one loosened a few turns but tighter than the others and don't want to damage anything. Filled the hole with WD40. How long to try again and is some other fluid better?
One spark plug won't come out.
- Thread starter atikovi
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Can you take the car out of service? Spray in some Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating oil and let soak a few hours. Give it the mighty turn to the left until it squeeks. Hold of for another hour. Try the left turn again. You might try turn back to the right a bit as well. Are you just working with a 3/8" wrench? If so, use 1/2" ratchet wrench crossed over to your spark plug wrench. I find the 3/8" ratchet wrench is too small to get enough torque to get it out.
Starting a valve adjustment and other maintenance so yes it's out of service. I'll let it soak some more and use a bigger wrench.
Turn the plug back and forth, it should start loosening more and more. Apply a very thin coat of antiseize to the new plugs, don't fall for the coated plug argument.
You've got carbon on the threads. Don't just crank this out, soak it, tighten it back up, and loosen again. You're breaking up the carbon and allowing it to work loose. If it gets hard to turn while removing again, just run it back in a turn or two, then continue to loosen.
By the way, WD-40 is a terrible penetrant for this purpose. Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
By the way, WD-40 is a terrible penetrant for this purpose. Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
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It's three cylinder. The 2 I removed were ok Champions but the wrong plug for this engine. It takes one of four indexed NGK spark plug options.
The back n' forth using real penetrant method is what I'd use.
It's what I do in my aluminum engine. Can't have those threads howling as they turn.
It's what I do in my aluminum engine. Can't have those threads howling as they turn.
Originally Posted by redbone3
This post is a great example of the disadvantage of long life plugs. The longer they are in the harder they are to remove. On an I-4 engine the plugs are easy to change, do it more often and avoid the problems.
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
This post is a great example of the disadvantage of long life plugs. The longer they are in the harder they are to remove. On an I-4 engine the plugs are easy to change, do it more often and avoid the problems.
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
Originally Posted by Astro14
Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
I have a Kroil spray can. So remove the WD40 and use that?
Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
I have a Kroil spray can. So remove the WD40 and use that?
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Astro14
Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
I have a Kroil spray can. So remove the WD40 and use that?
If you have e WD40 already there, I would leave it, but I would rotate the plug back and forth, this will also work WD40 into the threads.
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
Originally Posted by Astro14
Try Liquid Wrench (easily found) or Kroil (absolute best of all of them). They'll work much better.
I have a Kroil spray can. So remove the WD40 and use that?
If you have e WD40 already there, I would leave it, but I would rotate the plug back and forth, this will also work WD40 into the threads.
If you just let it sit, tight threads gummed up by soot will most likely not let it penetrate, doesn't matter the product.
PB Blaster
Originally Posted by redbone3
This post is a great example of the disadvantage of long life plugs.
Changed the plugs in our son's V6 Accord with 95k miles and my G35 with 120k miles. On the G35, I know they were the original, factory-installed plugs too. They all came out with no problem. A few of them did squeak a bit but that was the "worst" thing.
This post is a great example of the disadvantage of long life plugs.
Changed the plugs in our son's V6 Accord with 95k miles and my G35 with 120k miles. On the G35, I know they were the original, factory-installed plugs too. They all came out with no problem. A few of them did squeak a bit but that was the "worst" thing.
Originally Posted by atikovi
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
Both NGK and Denso both say not to use any anti-seize and I even emailed one of them (don't remember which) to see if they'd kinda hint in a roundabout way something like "it's not necessary, but it won't hurt anything" (wink, wink) but he repeated their stance: no anti-seize. We still put some on but a very, very small amount.
If the previous installer used anti-seize this wouldn't be a problem.
Both NGK and Denso both say not to use any anti-seize and I even emailed one of them (don't remember which) to see if they'd kinda hint in a roundabout way something like "it's not necessary, but it won't hurt anything" (wink, wink) but he repeated their stance: no anti-seize. We still put some on but a very, very small amount.
WD-40 is too weak for this.
One method nobody seems to have ever heard of is mixing them all, equal parts. Liquid Wrench and the Kroil, could leave the WD-40 out. Or straight up Acetone mixed with some auto trans fluid. Either the equal-part blends of everything or the acetone and auto trans fluid are much much much better options on penetrating liquid. You are on a head on a car with porcelain etc so while heat would help this, warmed up engine vs cold .. you probably are not advised to put heat to it. No, do not do that.
Then again, I have seen people REMOVE spark plugs with an Impact, usually a 3/8" . It is a clean break, so, while totally within your rights to not do, this could solve that problem also. Does this last spark plug look straight up and down, like the others? Or to one side, a sign of cross thread
One method nobody seems to have ever heard of is mixing them all, equal parts. Liquid Wrench and the Kroil, could leave the WD-40 out. Or straight up Acetone mixed with some auto trans fluid. Either the equal-part blends of everything or the acetone and auto trans fluid are much much much better options on penetrating liquid. You are on a head on a car with porcelain etc so while heat would help this, warmed up engine vs cold .. you probably are not advised to put heat to it. No, do not do that.
Then again, I have seen people REMOVE spark plugs with an Impact, usually a 3/8" . It is a clean break, so, while totally within your rights to not do, this could solve that problem also. Does this last spark plug look straight up and down, like the others? Or to one side, a sign of cross thread
Start the car, floor it, then shut it off
Tap the gas pedal all the way down then let off immediately
That might help
Tap the gas pedal all the way down then let off immediately
That might help
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