MB GL350 BlueTec (om642) oil recommendation

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Looking for a low NOACK, under 6% preferably, MB 229.51 or 229.52 (low SAPS) oil in 30wt. Looking around, seems like the Redline 5w30 Euro is my best bet. See some amsoil w/ 3.6-4.5 % NOACK, but its not 229.51/.52, eg their Heavy-Duty Synthetic Diesel Oil in 10w30 & 15w40. Whats the sulfated ash level required for the MB approval? Would it be detrimental to the DPF to use somthing around 1% sulfated ash?

Vehicle is consuming quite a bit of oil, currently using LiquiMoly Longtime High Tech as its 1 of the few 229.51 oils I can get my hands on locally. Was thinking of running some AutoRX thru it to see if that helps.

Been out of the loop lately, so just checking in here for any suggestions.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
M1 5W-30 ESP ?

Quote
Whats the sulfated ash level required for the MB approval?

â¤0.8.


+1
Granted I didn't have a lot of miles on my vehicle at the time but I observed no consumption with M1 ESP 5w30 when I had my BMW I6 diesel.
 
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I think the older M1 5W30 ESP Formula would fit the OPer's bill with ~6% Noack loss per Amsoil (comparative study) and the Russian Oil Club as well as 0.6% SA...but I think that oil may be on its way out.
There is a newer M1 5W30 ESP (no Formula) about which Patman has been digging for info...believe it is 0.8% SA and the Noack loss is not known at this point. I would bet against it being in the 6% range as that is pretty rare.
M1 5W30 ESP Formula was harder to find in the US and pricey...think I paid $100 for a case of 12 liter bottles a few years ago, actually hit a sale price. No 4l or 5l jugs to be found in the US as far as I could tell.
If you're willing to pay for Redline, might be worth looking at the Ravenol offerings.
 
If your car is using a lot of oil and it is not due to leaks, make sure your air filters are clean. Mine get really dirty in 10k miles. You can't go by the factory recommendations. Another thing to check is the PCV "puck" on the passenger side of the engine. I use MB oil or Valvoline MST.
You can get the MB oil online and Valvoline goes on sale at NAPA every couple of months. I'm using the Valvoline 5-40 will probably stick with that.
 
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From what I've read the ESP isn't what it used to be..

So 1% sulfated ash content isn't terrible, or is that way too high? AMSOIL's Heavy Duty Synthetic Diesl Oil in 10w30 has a NOACK of 4.5, and the 15w40 at 3.6. I am wondering if the 15w40 is too heavy though? I am sure many people run it in sprinter vans without issue. It is a little cheaper too @ $78.30 for a 2.5 Gal jug of the 15w40 ($56.55 for preferred customers), and $77.40 for the 10w30.

The RAVENOL REP Racing Extra Performance SAE 5W-30 is an option at 6.5 NOACK and MB 229.52 approval. $120 for 10L shipped. The redline is $124.90 for 10 qts shipped w/ a slightly better NOACK at 6%

I'll certainly check the air filters, I have two pairs on hand as I've read they should be changed often. The technician at the shop said no oil leaks, however there is a little seepage that I haven't had time to pinpoint. It's a 2010 x164.825, and I don't know that I have the "puck" separator like the gas motor I think the crankcase breather pipe is just the small round piece w/ electrical connector near the turbo.

Like this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_I...q55Cl4gIVAo7ICh38XQWHEAQYBSABEgJzEPD_BwE

Not really sure how to check that its working, may just replace it for $50 though.
 
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Originally Posted by Taylor
From what I've read the ESP isn't what it used to be..

So 1% sulfated ash content isn't terrible, or is that way too high? AMSOIL's Heavy Duty Synthetic Diesl Oil in 10w30 has a NOACK of 4.5, and the 15w40 at 3.6. I am wondering if the 15w40 is too heavy though? I am sure many people run it in sprinter vans without issue. It is a little cheaper too @ $78.30 for a 2.5 Gal jug of the 15w40 ($56.55 for preferred customers), and $77.40 for the 10w30.

The RAVENOL REP Racing Extra Performance SAE 5W-30 is an option at 6.5 NOACK and MB 229.52 approval. $120 for 10L shipped. The redline is $124.90 for 10 qts shipped w/ a slightly better NOACK at 6%

I'll certainly check the air filters, I have two pairs on hand as I've read they should be changed often. The technician at the shop said no oil leaks, however there is a little seepage that I haven't had time to pinpoint. It's a 2010 x164.825, and I don't know that I have the "puck" separator like the gas motor I think the crankcase breather pipe is just the small round piece w/ electrical connector near the turbo.

Like this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_I...q55Cl4gIVAo7ICh38XQWHEAQYBSABEgJzEPD_BwE

Not really sure how to check that its working, may just replace it for $50 though.

Originally Posted by Taylor
From what I've read the ESP isn't what it used to be..

So 1% sulfated ash content isn't terrible, or is that way too high? AMSOIL's Heavy Duty Synthetic Diesl Oil in 10w30 has a NOACK of 4.5, and the 15w40 at 3.6. I am wondering if the 15w40 is too heavy though? I am sure many people run it in sprinter vans without issue. It is a little cheaper too @ $78.30 for a 2.5 Gal jug of the 15w40 ($56.55 for preferred customers), and $77.40 for the 10w30.

The RAVENOL REP Racing Extra Performance SAE 5W-30 is an option at 6.5 NOACK and MB 229.52 approval. $120 for 10L shipped. The redline is $124.90 for 10 qts shipped w/ a slightly better NOACK at 6%

I'll certainly check the air filters, I have two pairs on hand as I've read they should be changed often. The technician at the shop said no oil leaks, however there is a little seepage that I haven't had time to pinpoint. It's a 2010 x164.825, and I don't know that I have the "puck" separator like the gas motor I think the crankcase breather pipe is just the small round piece w/ electrical connector near the turbo.

Like this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_I...q55Cl4gIVAo7ICh38XQWHEAQYBSABEgJzEPD_BwE

Not really sure how to check that its working, may just replace it for $50 though.

That art is the heater for the pcv gases going into the turbo inlet. It's connected to the hockey puck on the passenger valve cover near the firewall. They can leak if clogged. They have been reengineered several times over the years.
 
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That art is the heater for the pcv gases going into the turbo inlet. It's connected to the hockey puck on the passenger valve cover near the firewall. They can leak if clogged. They have been reengineered several times over the years.


I see, I will take a look at that this afternoon when I change the oil and check the air filters. Is it serviceable or does it just have to be replaced?

I decided to go w AMSOIL heavy duty diesel 15w40 for its 3.6% NOACK and 4.7 HTHS. I am not too concerned with the 1% sulfated ash content, but will monitor the DPF w my scan tool. I want to start sending in UOA's but I've had to top off the LuiqiMoly so much it would be pointless, I will be sending in a VOA of the AMSOIL for a baseline though.

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3468.pdf
 
Looks like entire assembly would be the best option, is it tucked way back in there, or fairly easy to get to?

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MB-64...Ytp6v4gIV1FuGCh06VwJ_EAkYBCABEgJLgPD_BwE

Also, I see AutoRX isn't held in as high regards here as it used to be. I see a few people use kreen, which sort of scares me, and some have used BG 109 on some sprinter forums on this motor w/ good results. Anyone have any experience with AMSOIL's Engine and Transmission Flush product?

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...e-and-transmission-flush/?code=FLSHCN-EA
 
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Little seepage, but no major leaks. Ran the flush for 20 minutes, cleaned out the filter housing and torqued to spec. Sent off VOA today as well. Doesn't look like the PCV is leaking, but I'll probably replace it anyways for the extra assurance. Didn't have time to check the air filters, but we've only put just over 20k on the vehicle and changed them once. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend.
 
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Hi Taylor
Please understand I have only recently become interested in this oil business so I make no statements. I just ask questions.

I have never been convinced with engine flush chemicals. If there are deposits in there that need chemically removing then are oil change intervals too long?

I see you like to do part fill through the filter housing. I have read a few pieces that say this is a good idea with the OM642 but I am not sure it is not just urban myth. You really think it helps?

You are obviously happy with 15w oil for cold weather starts. I am guessing winters are mild in Virginia? Feels counterintuitive putting 15w when spec calls for 5w. Having said that your oil test reports are first class.

My OM642 has no DPF, they were not fitted on UK jeeps, so I think the oil in my engine is not subjected the heat cycles caused by regen' that yours is.

Have you read the following? http://www.stephensservice.com/oil-related-failures-to-engine/ Please forgive if you have already seen this.

Thanks
Tikka.
 
Hey Tikka,

I think most deposits are more so related to poor maintenance. I too have never been convinced by flushes, more so worried about ill effects such as build
up in the pan. I'll likely drop the pan at some point to take a peek. I had just read about excessive ‘sludge' on some sprinter forums w the same motor. I also read the piston rings are pretty stout, so consumption likely isn't from blow-by. I started using AMSOIL cetane booster & cleaner on the last fill up, maybe that'll help clean up the top end.

It's summer here and regularly +90*F, but I wouldn't be too concerned in the winter either. More so concerned with running temps, as I understand it these motors get quite hot, especially around the turbo.

I have read a few of his articles, he recommends 15w40 redline for its NOACK, which is 6%. It's also about 2x the cost of the AMSOIL I went w, which has a NOACK of 3.6%.

My air filters were pretty clogged up, but the oil separator didn't seem too bad. It had been RTV'd in so I'm not sure if the PO had attempted to clean it etc.

I'll keep this post updated in regards to consumption as I put some miles on the vehicle.

Cheers!

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Thanks for the pics. That oil separator doesn't look like much. Keep us posted on how you like that oil and how it runs on it.
 
600 miles in and I added a little over a qt, which is about 1/2 what I've been doing. Most of that's just the oil change, only 100 mi or so since the air filters/ oil separator was done. Though I did have to replace the drain plug washer just prior as it was over used and leaking and topped it maybe 1/2 qt at best. Cleaned up the seepage on the front of the motor when I changed the oil, and it hasn't really re-appeared. Little bit at the bell housing near the trans, but not dripping on the driveway. From what I've read it puts a pool on the driveway when the oil cooler leaks, hopefully that's not the problem I have. There was very minimal oil in the turbo, and very little play in the impeller shaft. Tech stated all was good and the oil lubricates the turbo, which I've read isn't the case w these. I've also read any play isn't acceptable.


Adding the VOA now..

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...-15w40-heavy-duty-diesel-adp#Post5127289
 
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Are you filling the oil to the top mark on the dipstick?? 8qts should only go to the halfway mark between the upper and lower mark. I can't believe the engine is burning that much oil. If so then the previous owner must have never changed the oil at all.
 
That air filter looked awful. I do frequent air filter changes on my om642 since clogged filters can lead to higher crankcase pressure. I run HDEO btw and I have no little to no oil burning. Rotella T6.
 
Fill was 8.5L, to the top of the dipstick. FWIW it's a used junkyard motor after the previous one seized. We think PO did a poor timing chain replacement. Used motor came w/ 108k mi, and we've put about 19k or so on it. Put new motor mounts, cam sensor, crank sensor, and starter on it during the swap. An EGR valve and timing chain just after. If you google around, high consumption is a common issue on these motors.
 
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Taylor said:
Fill was 8.5L, to the top of the dipstick. FWIW it's a used junkyard motor after the previous one seized. We think PO did a poor timing chain replacement. Used motor came w/ 108k mi, and we've put about 19k or so on it. Put new motor mounts, cam sensor, crank sensor, and starter on it during the swap. An EGR valve and timing chain just after. If you google around, high consumption is a common issue on these motors.
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I've had my 642 for 5 yrs and keep up with the Mb forums. Never heard of excessive oil consumption. I would keep the oil midway between the marks on the dipstick. Too much oil and dirty air filters will cause more blowby at the pcv valve.
 
I have a 2015 Sprinter 6 cylinder diesel with the BlueTEC engine on it, with just about 48k, no issues so far. I bought it in 2017 with just 25 miles on it, so I drive 20,000 miles a year.

I just came across a blog of a retired Mercedes mechanic, who worked on BlueTEC diesels & from what Ive read, appears to know his stuff. His site is: StephensService.com

He mentions that the oil that our MB BlueTEC vehicles came with (Mobil1 5w-30) and still comes with now in 2019, new from the factory doesn't meet Mercedes own stated requirements regarding following the appropriate API or ACEA requirements! It appears true, just look on the Mobile 1 Product Sheet and I just see it's approved "ACEA C2, C3", "API SM/ SN". This means that the oil is appropriate for light duty, non-turbocharged diesels, not (BlueTEC)Turbo Diesels. The API "SM/SN" means it is approved for gasoline engines. So, this oil clearly doesn't belong in a Turbo Diesel BlueTec engine. To make matters worse the mechanic says he has the internal documents from Mercedes that show they know there was a problem, more than 12 years ago. He says that there are internal docs that show Mobile1's oil for the US market has or had a NOACK rating of 24% after the first 3 hours, meaning 24% of the oil vaporized and moves along to cause major issues. I could go on, but I am looking to find a good replacement oil and I was advised to discontinue the 20k oil changes and instead do them every 5,000. He said I should flush the engine and clean out the sludge first. The EPA has made things worse by putting limits on zinc in oil, which has resulted in timing chains braking. Lots of new information for me to process and deal with, but it sounds like Mobile 1 is one to avoid and from my reading on this site, Rotella is no good either.

Anyone here that knows their stuff on an oil that they can recommend? If you can point to a good Turbo Diesel rated oil with API "CK-4" or ACEA rated E9 oil with a NOACK rating of less than 5%...and the MB228.31 ?
 
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