Subaru FB 2.5 - Change in Oil = Consumption?

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May 5, 2012
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74
Location
NY
Hello all.

I have a relatively new to me Forester with the FB 2.5. I know its the one thats a potential oil burner, so Im a little paranoid.

I picked it up with a little over 60k miles, and had a fresh oil change from the dealer. I went to just a little over 65k and did a change and put in some PP 0-20. Just about 1600 miles later, the low oil light came on when going around a curve and up a hill, even though I had been checking on a weekly basis.

So in the past I have heard that when you change oil brands it can temporarily increase consumption, and then levels out, and for me it seems some oils tend to be burned more than others. (I had an old Ranger that would consume Mobil quickly, but did just fine on Castrol GTX)

Ill wait and see if I have to add more before my next planned change at 70k, and then consider taking it in for an oil consumption test.

My question is that Im curious if the oil brand would really impact the oil consumption so drastically. The dealer did add the BG additive to the oil, but my guess is more that they overfilled it and so it didnt trigger the light.

Any thoughts?
 
You say the oil light came on, did you check it, and it was actually low?

If so, how low was it? Must have been pretty bad/low for an oil light to come on.
 
Does this car have a powertrain warranty or any type of dealer warranty?

Yes, consumption can change due to switching oils but I believe the low oil light is supposed to come on when you're 1 quart low?? That seems excessive for only 1,600 miles. I would probably switch to a High Mileage oil, and maybe a 5W30, although that may just be a band-aid if there is a real problem. Not sure how it works on a used car, but I would be curious if you could see previous trips to the dealer by the previous owner for oil burning if you sign up at mysubaru.com.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by addyguy
You say the oil light came on, did you check it, and it was actually low?

If so, how low was it? Must have been pretty bad/low for an oil light to come on.


These cars have a low oil level light at 1quart low.

Most dealers overfill by at least .5qt to .75qt

To The OP:
What year is the forester, the worst were MT equipped 2011 to 2015.

I doubt the oil is the issue, I did have an issue with M1 in a 2.4L equinox where it consumed when I switched from using pennzoil, So it is theoretically possible.

I find it likely the dealer put an extra quart in previously(unless you checked it)


How many quarts did you use for your oil change and was it on the full mark or higher when you were done changing the oil?
 
Being over 65k miles and unknown history, there is no telling what the issue is by guessing. Start with replacing PCV with an OEM one. I know they came with 0W20s from the factory, but there is no real downside to stepping up to a 0/5W30. However, do understand that flip-flopping oil brands every change will keep your engine in a constant state of flux and will not help you determine what is "normal" for your engine. Since you've already used PP (which is a fine oil) I'd try a change with PP 5W30. Keep it that way for 2-3 changes and stick to factory recommendation of 6k OCIs. Monitor oil level at every fill up, but do not top off until the level shows at the L mark.

Also make sure you are waiting at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the level, it can change a good bit when measuring just after shutoff to waiting until it's completely cold. Until you figure out your "normal" I would avoid using any oil additives so you can pin down exactly what the engine and oil themselves are doing. You can also run a compression test which will identify if one cylinder (or more) may be your culprit. Is there any black residue around the exhaust pipe or on the bumper? Can you smell burning oil? Have you removed the belly pan and checked to see if it's leaking from the underside of the engine?

I know on my EJ251 it would not consume any oil until I had it on the highway at speeds of 70+ for significant travels, and then it would use about a quart every 3k (which is insignificant IMO). Is most of your driving at highway speeds?
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Ill give some additional info.

its a 2014 Forester with the 6MT, so its one of the ones that is in danger of being an oil burner. The current program covers the engine out to 100k for oil consumption, so Im still able to get it tested.

I have checked the oil at every fill-up since I purchased it, and it was overfilled previously (Im not sure how much), and did burn some previously. I dont know what the dealer used for oil, only that they put in the BG additive.

In this particular instance, I had added 5 quarts when I made the change. It was very close to the full mark.

When the oil light came on, it was while driving, and around a fairly sharp corner up a hill, so that may have caused enough movement in the sump to trigger the light, but its the first I have seen it. When I checked it, the level was still above add on the dipstick, so I put in 0.5 qt. Its not up to full, but on the higher side of being between the dots.

Mostly Im wondering if the change in oil manufacturer is a large impact on consumption. Otherwise, I may just go get the consumption test done when I need to do my next change and see if I am eligible for a new shortblock...
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Being over 65k miles and unknown history, there is no telling what the issue is by guessing. Start with replacing PCV with an OEM one. I know they came with 0W20s from the factory, but there is no real downside to stepping up to a 0/5W30. However, do understand that flip-flopping oil brands every change will keep your engine in a constant state of flux and will not help you determine what is "normal" for your engine. Since you've already used PP (which is a fine oil) I'd try a change with PP 5W30. Keep it that way for 2-3 changes and stick to factory recommendation of 6k OCIs. Monitor oil level at every fill up, but do not top off until the level shows at the L mark.

Also make sure you are waiting at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the level, it can change a good bit when measuring just after shutoff to waiting until it's completely cold. Until you figure out your "normal" I would avoid using any oil additives so you can pin down exactly what the engine and oil themselves are doing. You can also run a compression test which will identify if one cylinder (or more) may be your culprit. Is there any black residue around the exhaust pipe or on the bumper? Can you smell burning oil? Have you removed the belly pan and checked to see if it's leaking from the underside of the engine?

I know on my EJ251 it would not consume any oil until I had it on the highway at speeds of 70+ for significant travels, and then it would use about a quart every 3k (which is insignificant IMO). Is most of your driving at highway speeds?
Excellent advice. Every single word.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Being over 65k miles and unknown history, there is no telling what the issue is by guessing. Start with replacing PCV with an OEM one. I know they came with 0W20s from the factory, but there is no real downside to stepping up to a 0/5W30. However, do understand that flip-flopping oil brands every change will keep your engine in a constant state of flux and will not help you determine what is "normal" for your engine. Since you've already used PP (which is a fine oil) I'd try a change with PP 5W30. Keep it that way for 2-3 changes and stick to factory recommendation of 6k OCIs. Monitor oil level at every fill up, but do not top off until the level shows at the L mark.

Also make sure you are waiting at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the level, it can change a good bit when measuring just after shutoff to waiting until it's completely cold. Until you figure out your "normal" I would avoid using any oil additives so you can pin down exactly what the engine and oil themselves are doing. You can also run a compression test which will identify if one cylinder (or more) may be your culprit. Is there any black residue around the exhaust pipe or on the bumper? Can you smell burning oil? Have you removed the belly pan and checked to see if it's leaking from the underside of the engine?

I know on my EJ251 it would not consume any oil until I had it on the highway at speeds of 70+ for significant travels, and then it would use about a quart every 3k (which is insignificant IMO). Is most of your driving at highway speeds?
Known oil burner with an extended warranty that only has 35k left on it and you suggest multiple OCIs? Why would you spend money on a new PCV when you can get a new short block from the dealer for free with an oil consumption test that costs you nothing? I understand the trouble shooting process but this is a 65k mile known oil burner that drinks a qt in 1600 miles, what are the chances it is the PCV?

You're not blinded by the badge on the front, are you?
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Being over 65k miles and unknown history, there is no telling what the issue is by guessing. Start with replacing PCV with an OEM one. I know they came with 0W20s from the factory, but there is no real downside to stepping up to a 0/5W30. However, do understand that flip-flopping oil brands every change will keep your engine in a constant state of flux and will not help you determine what is "normal" for your engine. Since you've already used PP (which is a fine oil) I'd try a change with PP 5W30. Keep it that way for 2-3 changes and stick to factory recommendation of 6k OCIs. Monitor oil level at every fill up, but do not top off until the level shows at the L mark.

Also make sure you are waiting at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the level, it can change a good bit when measuring just after shutoff to waiting until it's completely cold. Until you figure out your "normal" I would avoid using any oil additives so you can pin down exactly what the engine and oil themselves are doing. You can also run a compression test which will identify if one cylinder (or more) may be your culprit. Is there any black residue around the exhaust pipe or on the bumper? Can you smell burning oil? Have you removed the belly pan and checked to see if it's leaking from the underside of the engine?

I know on my EJ251 it would not consume any oil until I had it on the highway at speeds of 70+ for significant travels, and then it would use about a quart every 3k (which is insignificant IMO). Is most of your driving at highway speeds?
Known oil burner with an extended warranty that only has 35k left on it and you suggest multiple OCIs? Why would you spend money on a new PCV when you can get a new short block from the dealer for free with an oil consumption test that costs you nothing? I understand the trouble shooting process but this is a 65k mile known oil burner that drinks a qt in 1600 miles, what are the chances it is the PCV?

You're not blinded by the badge on the front, are you?


Maybe they changed their policy, but when these problems were first appearing in some Gen5 cars, the manufacturer considered a quart down in 1,200 miles to be "normal". If it used a quart in fewer miles they considered it defective and gave the owner a new short block.
 
Originally Posted by SeaJay
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Being over 65k miles and unknown history, there is no telling what the issue is by guessing. Start with replacing PCV with an OEM one. I know they came with 0W20s from the factory, but there is no real downside to stepping up to a 0/5W30. However, do understand that flip-flopping oil brands every change will keep your engine in a constant state of flux and will not help you determine what is "normal" for your engine. Since you've already used PP (which is a fine oil) I'd try a change with PP 5W30. Keep it that way for 2-3 changes and stick to factory recommendation of 6k OCIs. Monitor oil level at every fill up, but do not top off until the level shows at the L mark.

Also make sure you are waiting at least 5 minutes after shutting the engine off to check the level, it can change a good bit when measuring just after shutoff to waiting until it's completely cold. Until you figure out your "normal" I would avoid using any oil additives so you can pin down exactly what the engine and oil themselves are doing. You can also run a compression test which will identify if one cylinder (or more) may be your culprit. Is there any black residue around the exhaust pipe or on the bumper? Can you smell burning oil? Have you removed the belly pan and checked to see if it's leaking from the underside of the engine?

I know on my EJ251 it would not consume any oil until I had it on the highway at speeds of 70+ for significant travels, and then it would use about a quart every 3k (which is insignificant IMO). Is most of your driving at highway speeds?
Known oil burner with an extended warranty that only has 35k left on it and you suggest multiple OCIs? Why would you spend money on a new PCV when you can get a new short block from the dealer for free with an oil consumption test that costs you nothing? I understand the trouble shooting process but this is a 65k mile known oil burner that drinks a qt in 1600 miles, what are the chances it is the PCV?

You're not blinded by the badge on the front, are you?


Maybe they changed their policy, but when these problems were first appearing in some Gen5 cars, the manufacturer considered a quart down in 1,200 miles to be "normal". If it used a quart in fewer miles they considered it defective and gave the owner a new short block.


When I had the 2013 outback tested it was 1quart in 3000miles.. but they overfilled it by over 16oz on both oil consumption tests.

For my 2015 forester IIRC it called for 5.1 or 5.2quarts but it took almost 5.75 quarts to get to the full mark.. I would just put in 6quart and never had to add any in 5000mile oil changes.

I had 3 MT equipped fb25 vehicles so I was pretty paranoid about oil burning too.

Also highway road trips can double or even triple the oil consumption.. the 2013 outback burned 1quart in 1200miles during a period with alot of highspeed PA mountain driving. Generally it was somewhere between 1quart in 1800mi to 1quart in 2500mi.

It has got new rings and then a new shortblock.. still burns 1quart in 3000miles.
 
I do have a new PCV on hand that I can install, just have not gotten there yet. Most of my driving is two lanes, varied speeds due to the terrain, but occasional highway stints for work purposes.

I was really looking to see if people here had experienced the known change in consumption with the brand of oil. Im not intending to use any additives or change weights if I can help it until I can establish my own baseline of usage, or until I know it will fail the test and I would be eligible for a replacement.

My older EJ2.5 would burn some oil after a highway trip, and would be down to the add mark around 5000 miles, so I just did my changes then. It sounds like for now I should just keep a quart of oil in the back, and keep good records of when I do my changes and adds....

Ill be overly careful next time to see how much it takes to get it full, perhaps I started a bit lower than I thought I did. The joy of working on a gravel driveway is that its usually "level enough", but not always repeatable. I try to use the flat pad at the gas pumps, but even those arent too flat (so the water runs off), and I cant sit there for hours waiting for the engine to cool.
 
If you start the Subaru Oil consumption test, make sure to take a nice road trip in 4th gear the whole way. The increased RPMs will burn.

With that said, I've used different 0w-20s in my 18 2.5i 6mt and have only experienced consumption with Mobil1. The 0w-20 burnt 1/2 quart in my 6000 mile OCI.
 
Hi i joined this forum after reading your oil consumption problem with your forester. Why do you not want a free $ 6000 dollar engine and loaner car for less than 4 hours time at subaru. just had the engine replaced on my daughters 2016 forester with 49000 miles.she had 1 quart consumption every 400 miles. same consumption even with rotella 10-30. easy peasy but you playing around with various oils your going to miss out. they told me the oil test must be started before 68000 miles. thats 1500$ an hour for your time.
 
Max, if there is an issue that Subaru will replace the short block for free, great. But I haven't heard of that many actually being replaced, have you? Besides, I'm trying to give the OP some sage advice on his brand-new-to-him vehicle. I know the Boxer engine uses some oil, I've never denied that. But there are some things that aggravate it, and some possible misconceptions if OP was coming from a lifetime of Toyota or Mazda MZR experience is all. But even Subaru isn't going to jump all the way to short block replacement without some investigatory steps, so that's why I started there.
 
Could not have been better treated when complaining to the dealer about the oil consumption.The forester was a gift from my next door neighbor to my daughter. Explained the oil consumption to the dealer and asked about the engine recall. Told the dealer she drives the car from Redlands University to lake Arrowhead everyday and twice the oil light came on during cornering. Dealer did an oil change and she was told to drive the car 1200 miles or when the light flashes low oil.The dealer put a yellow paint mark on the upside down filter and boss.They also marked the drainplug. Total time 2 hours. Returned to dealer at 890 miles low light on. Service manager calls oil tech who removes dipstick. He shows the dipstick to us and the manager no oil on dipstick .Service manager writes invoice for shortblock replacement. Oil is topped off and we are sent home 1 hour. She receives a call 3 weeks later to drop it off and is given a crosstrak loaner 1 hour. 48 hours later picks up forester new shortblock please return back and have oil changed in 4 to 5 thousand miles. This was done in feb 19 No hoops No investigation no questions about service records.
 
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