Why do people run higher weight oil in summer?

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Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by Chris142
They don't know any better.

+1
They think the millions of $$$$'s the engineers use to test engine oils is useless.
So, they thumb their nose at the engineers and use what THEY think works better.
smirk.gif


As if the engineers make all the decisions. If everything was left to engineers, we still be riding horses.

Riding horses isn't so bad.
 
Originally Posted by Whammo
I have seen a lot of people recommend running a 5w30 instead of a 5w20 in summertime. As far as I know, the engine operating temp isn't going to be higher in the summer. If the manual says 5w20 is fine year round, why mess with it?


Their manual may say different from yours. They have probably read a viscosity chart in their vehicle's manual that shows different viscosities for different ambient temperatures.
 
Moving up to SAE 20 from 0W20 or 5W20 is a jump in base oil viscosity and HTHS. Here is Mobil 1220;

40C 66
100C 8.3
150C/HTHS; 2.9
Density .890
VI; 111

Delo 400 SAE 20 is close;

40C 61
100C 8.5
Density .875
 
One consideration for me is keeping things simple. If one car calls for 5W-20 and the other for 5W-30, I'll standardize on 5W-30 for both so I don't need to purchase and store two different oils. As to the summer, probably could go to a 10W-30 for some slight gain in protection with higher temps, but today's 5W oils are really good and I doubt anyone can point to a study that shows any real-world improvements by going to a 10W in summer. On the other hand, when I can't get around to changing the oil until December I will regret having the 10W in there.
 
Originally Posted by userfriendly
Moving up to SAE 20 from 0W20 or 5W20 is a jump in base oil viscosity and HTHS. Here is Mobil 1220;

Quite correct. I wonder how much 1220 Imperial Oil actually moves.
wink.gif
 
I think as with Duron SAE 20 it's discontinued, leaving Delo the sole offering.

I guess I'll have to water down SAE 30 with a 10W which should work out to 15W20.
 
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Originally Posted by userfriendly
I think as with Duron SAE 20 it's discontinued, leaving Delo the sole offering.

I guess I'll have to water down SAE 30 with a 10W which should work out to 15W20.


How does something like that work? I'm not trying to be a critic, I sincerely don't have a clue how you calculate what your base is going to be.

In a frankenmix is it as simple as you end up with a base weight equal to whatever the majority is in the mix??? Is there some standard equation needed to calculate that??
 
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What it actually works out to, only your hairdresser knows for sure.

Modern group II SAE 10W's would likely pass 5W, at least in the cold flow and pumping department making it a 5W10, SAE 20, a 15W20 SAE 40, 25W40 and SAE 30, 20W30.

Using the Bolivian calculator, if you ran an SAE 20 up to its maximum allowable KV100C, you would end up with a HTHS of around 3.10.
An SAE 30 at 12.49 @ 100C, about 3.7 HTHS.
 
Originally Posted by userfriendly
What it actually works out to, only your hairdresser knows for sure.


...‚...‚...‚
 
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*It is strongly implied that Hyundai / Kia Theta II engines were too close for comfort to suggest 5W20 due to GDI fuel dilution and potential film strength issues . Winter fill is a light 30 weight synthetic (PP 5W30) , Spring / Summer fill is a thicker M1 5W30 and Fall is in between thickness synthetic with Valvoline Advanced 5W30 ... All will be 5W30 to start which will be near a 20 weight at the end of a 4K to 5K mile OCI .
 
Because they're still under the false impression that thicker protects better when it's hot out. Ambient outside temperature has no effect on oil temp. Your cooling system regulates that!
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by jongies3
Because they're still under the false impression that thicker protects better when it's hot out. Ambient outside temperature has no effect on oil temp. Your cooling system regulates that!
thumbsup2.gif



This was always my impression as well! Now for some more detail. For normal, street-driven regular use cars, I do not think the manufacturer recommended is bad. It should be just fine. A good synthetic will hold up better under high heat, flow better when cold, and most importantly, should not be shearing down in service. Stop and go will heat the oil up faster, there seems to be some debate about the oil temperature vs the coolant temperature, should throw transmission fluid temperature in there too but for now.. Back in the day you probably did need that thicker oil because as it got HOT out and with hard drivin' in the summer, you would not want the protection to break down, I believe this is what it comes down to. Back then, oil was probably mostly garbage dino juice and the thicker grades actually cause a good deal of heat the same as they are supposed to protect from. If anyone ever told you their old Ford truck "took a 20W-50" you could invite them to show you this, where it said that. Maybe it did have some kind of a range that said this could be used in the manual. Then look at the year, and the API service category of said oils. API SF? SG? Hmm. Now look at what was available back then. Tell that to someone in a Deep South summer and something very thick probably got cemented as a go-to oil.

Nowadays, if say an Ecoboost or whatever you got says 5W-20 on the cap, and you run a 5W-20 to not make Ford mad (using Ford as an example here) or even a 0W-20 if that is something they say you can use.... then those are synthetic and mostly synthetic oils anyways, right off the bat and the same as trans fluid that are synthetic anyways - this is also something I have heard said a long time ago, that there is not difference, only in the labeling - and if it does not thin out more than what it already is, and a 20-grade should not be shearing, then you have your protection, and thicker oils can set off all sorts of codes in an engine like Ram or whatever for running something thicker than you are supposed to. We will leave the conversation about engine feel alone, though I have done many an engine where they come and tell me it revs easier on the thin stuff?
21.gif
Wanted to give some examples of what I am saying, for those feeling technical.
 
Why do people run 0W anything in a hot climate?

I run 5w40 in the winter, 15w40 spring & fall and SAE40 during the summer.
Guess which one has the lowest KV100C?

Right. The SAE40 is the thinnest of the three.

Without using the "I can use a multi grade year round" excuse;

What would be the advantage/disadvantage of running a mono grade engine oil during the summer?
What would be the advantage/disadvantage of running a 0W or 5W multigrade oil in the summer?
 
Originally Posted by userfriendly
Why do people run 0W anything in a hot climate?

I run 5w40 in the winter, 15w40 spring & fall and SAE40 during the summer.
Guess which one has the lowest KV100C?

Right. The SAE40 is the thinnest of the three.

Without using the "I can use a multi grade year round" excuse;

What would be the advantage/disadvantage of running a mono grade engine oil during the summer?
What would be the advantage/disadvantage of running a 0W or 5W multigrade oil in the summer?


Not sure the answer to advantage/disadvantage of running a mono grade engine oil during the summer, if I had to venture a possible, perhaps there are not VIIs that is Viscosity Index Improvers in the monograde to shear down so it should maintain its grade much more easily. There are monograde SAE 30, 40, 50, and 60 oils, to my knowledge.

Not sure the disadvantage of running a 0W or 5W multigrade oil in the summer, but running something 0W all year round should give the penultimate start-up protection, whether it is 4 degrees in the North or 124 degrees somewhere in Phoenix. The case could be made that a 5W or 10W or anything W will flow just fine in very high heat, and negate the improved start up flow argument, but a 0W or 5W should still flow easier, and protect more. Some 5W oils flow better than 0W oils when cold so this is another chapter of conversation. In the summer, hot hot summer, the 0W should still flow easier than others ....
 
Originally Posted by talest
Originally Posted by jongies3
Because they're still under the false impression that thicker protects better when it's hot out. Ambient outside temperature has no effect on oil temp. Your cooling system regulates that!
thumbsup2.gif



This was always my impression as well! Now for some more detail. For normal, street-driven regular use cars, I do not think the manufacturer recommended is bad. It should be just fine. A good synthetic will hold up better under high heat, flow better when cold, and most importantly, should not be shearing down in service. Stop and go will heat the oil up faster, there seems to be some debate about the oil temperature vs the coolant temperature, should throw transmission fluid temperature in there too but for now.. Back in the day you probably did need that thicker oil because as it got HOT out and with hard drivin' in the summer, you would not want the protection to break down, I believe this is what it comes down to. Back then, oil was probably mostly garbage dino juice and the thicker grades actually cause a good deal of heat the same as they are supposed to protect from. If anyone ever told you their old Ford truck "took a 20W-50" you could invite them to show you this, where it said that. Maybe it did have some kind of a range that said this could be used in the manual. Then look at the year, and the API service category of said oils. API SF? SG? Hmm. Now look at what was available back then. Tell that to someone in a Deep South summer and something very thick probably got cemented as a go-to oil.

Nowadays, if say an Ecoboost or whatever you got says 5W-20 on the cap, and you run a 5W-20 to not make Ford mad (using Ford as an example here) or even a 0W-20 if that is something they say you can use.... then those are synthetic and mostly synthetic oils anyways, right off the bat and the same as trans fluid that are synthetic anyways - this is also something I have heard said a long time ago, that there is not difference, only in the labeling - and if it does not thin out more than what it already is, and a 20-grade should not be shearing, then you have your protection, and thicker oils can set off all sorts of codes in an engine like Ram or whatever for running something thicker than you are supposed to. We will leave the conversation about engine feel alone, though I have done many an engine where they come and tell me it revs easier on the thin stuff?
21.gif
Wanted to give some examples of what I am saying, for those feeling technical.



ISLAC oils shear it's been the nature of the beast for decades and it doesn't matter if it is "synthetic" or not. If using a DEXOS 1 motor oil the preformance is nearly identical across the brands it comes down to what the consumer wants to buy and use.
 
Originally Posted by talest
Not sure the disadvantage of running a 0W or 5W multigrade oil in the summer, but running something 0W all year round should give the penultimate start-up protection, whether it is 4 degrees in the North or 124 degrees somewhere in Phoenix. The case could be made that a 5W or 10W or anything W will flow just fine in very high heat, and negate the improved start up flow argument, but a 0W or 5W should still flow easier, and protect more. Some 5W oils flow better than 0W oils when cold so this is another chapter of conversation. In the summer, hot hot summer, the 0W should still flow easier than others ....

At all "normal" temperatures, the monograde will flow as quickly as the multigrade. There have been studies done on that and Shannow has some charts he shows us time to time. That being said, for me, I don't like being mated to seasonal oil changes. So, where at all reasonably possible, if I can't use it in the winter, I won't use it in the summer.
 
I live in Georgia and have no reason to use a 0w-xx. However, if that 0w-xx oil meets the standards I desire like A3/B3, A3/B4, MB 229.5, VW 502, etc... then I'll happily run that 0w-xx oil. The first number is irrelevant for me compared to how the oil performs when warmed up.
 
With all the goo goo and ga ga threads about HTHS viscosity, base oil viscosity etc in the last few weeks, lets talk about post permanent shear high temperature protection.
The PDS tells us how the engine oil performs when fresh, but how about towards the end of the oil drain interval?

SAE30 VS 0W40?
 
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