Bought plugs for the Santa Fe and Avalon. Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs. Youtube videos show the Santa Fe not too bad but the Avalon looks like a big pain. Almost makes me want to replace the rear O2 sensors as a prevention/time saver but they are expensive!
Bought the plugs now the fun begins...
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Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Used to take me a full day to do my 1997 Avalon Plugs...
Avalon with the 3.5L 2GR-FE? Those are silly easy compared to the older 3.0/3.3. Make sure you buy new intake plenium seals.
I would install new coilpacks as well, at least for the rear bank. The early 3.5's have a high failure rate for their coils.
I would install new coilpacks as well, at least for the rear bank. The early 3.5's have a high failure rate for their coils.
Originally Posted by AuthorEditor
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Ease of overall maintenance was a big reason for choosing the 4 cylinder 2.3 EB over the V-6 3.5 NA engine for my wife's 2017 Explorer. As for the spark plugs "all" four are right on top of the engine, just need to remove the plastic engine cover to get to them and that's just slotted in. There is no lack of useful power with the 2.3 EB vs the 3.5 NA. In fact the 2.3 EB is as powerful if not more than the 4.6 V-8 in our 2005 Explorer. And it gets ~23 mpg overall vs 13 for the 4.6 V-8
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Whimsey
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Ease of overall maintenance was a big reason for choosing the 4 cylinder 2.3 EB over the V-6 3.5 NA engine for my wife's 2017 Explorer. As for the spark plugs "all" four are right on top of the engine, just need to remove the plastic engine cover to get to them and that's just slotted in. There is no lack of useful power with the 2.3 EB vs the 3.5 NA. In fact the 2.3 EB is as powerful if not more than the 4.6 V-8 in our 2005 Explorer. And it gets ~23 mpg overall vs 13 for the 4.6 V-8
Whimsey
When I did the T-belt on my parent's Sienna, I also did the valve cover gaskets and plugs out of PM. Toyota V6s aren't exactly fun to work on, maybe the 5VZ-FE/1GR-FE on the 4Runner/Tacoma...
Supposedly Honda V6s aren't as bad to work on, The Critic said a head R&R on one doesn't involve dropping the engine/subframe. Now to do a head job on a Toyota V6...
http://carspecmn.com/teardown-and-b...-liter-2gr-fe-v6-in-depth-picture-guide/
Supposedly Honda V6s aren't as bad to work on, The Critic said a head R&R on one doesn't involve dropping the engine/subframe. Now to do a head job on a Toyota V6...
http://carspecmn.com/teardown-and-b...-liter-2gr-fe-v6-in-depth-picture-guide/
Originally Posted by AuthorEditor
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Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Totally agree here… If the motor is installed sideways in the engine bay, it has to be an in-line design for me; no sideways "V" motors for just that reason. Not to mention the rear bank tends to cook the oil since it runs hotter. [ insert discussion here about how synthetics will tolerate the extra heat better than conventional ]
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Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Totally agree here… If the motor is installed sideways in the engine bay, it has to be an in-line design for me; no sideways "V" motors for just that reason. Not to mention the rear bank tends to cook the oil since it runs hotter. [ insert discussion here about how synthetics will tolerate the extra heat better than conventional ]
If I remember correctly, GM designed a car that was supposed to get a rotary engine in the 1970's. The motor never made it to production, so they fit whatever other regular motors they had into the car. In order to change the sparkplugs on the V8 powered one, the motor mounts had to be disconnected and the engine lifted a bit to reach them.
Two worst plug changes I ever encountered were big block 1960s Mustangs and 90s Mitsubishi Monteros with the 3.5 engines.
On the Montero, you can't reach any of the plugs without removing the intake manifold. The intake manifold has about a hundred steel brackets supporting it for some reason. Some of the bolts directly face the firewall. Can maybe fit a sheet of paper in there.
On the Montero, you can't reach any of the plugs without removing the intake manifold. The intake manifold has about a hundred steel brackets supporting it for some reason. Some of the bolts directly face the firewall. Can maybe fit a sheet of paper in there.
I hope you got ruthenium plugs. So you won't have to do them again!
You should also replace the PCV valve, the valve cover gaskets, intake plenum gasket, and any other gaskets you need to take off in order to get to the rear bank
You should also replace the PCV valve, the valve cover gaskets, intake plenum gasket, and any other gaskets you need to take off in order to get to the rear bank
Doing valve covers on a V6 Toyota would add at least another 1-1.5 hr. The intake can come off in 30 min max.
Really?
Is the 2GR any better than the 1MZ?
I know with the 1MZ it's almost impossible to take the intake off, but once you do, the valve cover is right there
Is the 2GR any better than the 1MZ?
I know with the 1MZ it's almost impossible to take the intake off, but once you do, the valve cover is right there
The intake comes off more easily on the 2GR. The 1MZ/3MZ intakes are not terrible to remove. The bolt for the passenger side hanger is the only real pain. The driver side hanger is more easily accessed if you first remove the throttle body.
IIRC the rear valve cover on the 1MZ comes off if you move the wiring harness (after disconnecting the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and p/s switch). But on the 3MZ you also need to loosen (and/or remove) the hangers or else the rear valve cover bolts are inaccessible. The hangers are bolted to the back of the engine and are a little tough to access.
I have never done valve covers on a 2GR.
IIRC the rear valve cover on the 1MZ comes off if you move the wiring harness (after disconnecting the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and p/s switch). But on the 3MZ you also need to loosen (and/or remove) the hangers or else the rear valve cover bolts are inaccessible. The hangers are bolted to the back of the engine and are a little tough to access.
I have never done valve covers on a 2GR.
Originally Posted by benjy
thats why newer vehicles use overpriced long lasting plugs with exotic metals that don't perorm as good as cheap basic 10,000 mile plugs used in the past
They perform much better over a longer time. They require less firing voltage which is less strain on the coils and make cold starting easier. Today's ignition systems can light a wet book of matches where the old systems and plugs would flood at the drop of a hat.
thats why newer vehicles use overpriced long lasting plugs with exotic metals that don't perorm as good as cheap basic 10,000 mile plugs used in the past
They perform much better over a longer time. They require less firing voltage which is less strain on the coils and make cold starting easier. Today's ignition systems can light a wet book of matches where the old systems and plugs would flood at the drop of a hat.
Originally Posted by The Critic
The intake comes off more easily on the 2GR. The 1MZ/3MZ intakes are not terrible to remove. The bolt for the passenger side hanger is the only real pain. The driver side hanger is more easily accessed if you first remove the throttle body.
IIRC the rear valve cover on the 1MZ comes off if you move the wiring harness (after disconnecting the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and p/s switch). But on the 3MZ you also need to loosen (and/or remove) the hangers or else the rear valve cover bolts are inaccessible. The hangers are bolted to the back of the engine and are a little tough to access.
I have never done valve covers on a 2GR.
How much time does it take for you to pull the intake on a VQ like the 4th gen Maxima? That's one of the better transverse V6 designs, and that one has cutouts int he intake to access the rear plugs and coils. It still takes time to pull the intake, but not as bad as the 1MZ
The 1MZ I have experience with is the 3rd gen Camry/ES300. Supposedly, the SIenna and RX300 are even worse
The intake comes off more easily on the 2GR. The 1MZ/3MZ intakes are not terrible to remove. The bolt for the passenger side hanger is the only real pain. The driver side hanger is more easily accessed if you first remove the throttle body.
IIRC the rear valve cover on the 1MZ comes off if you move the wiring harness (after disconnecting the bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and p/s switch). But on the 3MZ you also need to loosen (and/or remove) the hangers or else the rear valve cover bolts are inaccessible. The hangers are bolted to the back of the engine and are a little tough to access.
I have never done valve covers on a 2GR.
How much time does it take for you to pull the intake on a VQ like the 4th gen Maxima? That's one of the better transverse V6 designs, and that one has cutouts int he intake to access the rear plugs and coils. It still takes time to pull the intake, but not as bad as the 1MZ
The 1MZ I have experience with is the 3rd gen Camry/ES300. Supposedly, the SIenna and RX300 are even worse
Originally Posted by ZZman
I have already changed the PCV valve on the Avalon. that was easy. The Sanra Fe PCV was buried under the throttle body but I didt that too.
Yes I got the intake gaskets
@zzman How did you remove the engine plastic cover without damaging the clips? What is the secret recipe? Do u remember PCV open wrench size?
I have already changed the PCV valve on the Avalon. that was easy. The Sanra Fe PCV was buried under the throttle body but I didt that too.
Yes I got the intake gaskets
@zzman How did you remove the engine plastic cover without damaging the clips? What is the secret recipe? Do u remember PCV open wrench size?
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Originally Posted by AuthorEditor
Quote
Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Learned that from an older V6 Accord, since then either I4 or V8 or I6.
Good luck with changing plugs on the Toyota, can be a pain on certain V6 models.
Quote
Both have V-6 motors so of course the intakes must come off to do the back plugs.
One reason I'm determined my next car will be a 4-cylinder one, but I'm sure I will come to find they have ingeniously made something that should be routine into a quest for smaller hands.
Learned that from an older V6 Accord, since then either I4 or V8 or I6.
Good luck with changing plugs on the Toyota, can be a pain on certain V6 models.
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