2015 Accord Sport steering wheel shake when braking

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I purchased this 2015 Accord sport used with 45k miles on the clock and it now has 53k miles. I use this as a DD but recently when braking the steering wheel has started shaking. I know that in many cases if not most, this is due to either bad rotors or uneven pad wear. The pads appear to have lots of material left but I don't know the history of the brake maintenance or lack thereof. Either way I am planning on replacing the front pads and rotors this weekend after replacing the rear upper control arms on my wife's Prius. I have considered the powerstop drilled and slotted rotor kit on RA but I am not sure if this is just overkill and I likely wouldn't receive them in time anyhow. Does anyone have any success with AZ, Orielly or NAPA rotors and pads? recommendations?
 
I bought O'Reilly ceramic Brake Best pads and rotors and had pulsing after two year. Won't buy those again. Using Autozone rotors and semi metallic pads now and still good after two years. The rotors are cheap now so who knows how long before I have issues again. Brakes are easy, so I just change them out whenever I don't like what they are doing.
 
I had Duralast Gold on the Trans Am and they made a ton of 1/4 miles passes. Never warped never made any noise. They were good for 30,000 miles and about 300 1/4 mile passes.
 
I had severe brake pulsation issues with my '15 Accord Sport last year at only around 30k miles. I replaced the OEM pads and rotors with Centric parts and the problem disappeared. The fronts were the problem.

I assumed the OEM rotors were high quality and worth keeping for resurfacing but after feeling how much heavier the noticeably thicker the Chinese-made Centrics were, the originals went into the scrap iron pile.
 
Honda's love to chew up rotors for some reason. Another vote here for Centric rotors.
 
Before you buy the parts, or if you already have, before you install them...

You need to "bed" the pads in. I have a 2014 Accord and I have to do this about once every 6 months or so. Our brakes heat up quickly and if you are stopped at a red light there will be a thin film of the brake pad that adheres to the rotor, causing vibration when you brake.

My personal bed in proedure:
1. Find a not so traveled section of road, about 6 miles long at least...
2. Accelerate to about 60 mph, climb on the brakes to about 20 mph.
3. Repeat this 3 to 4 times. You will smell brakes cooking, not to worry.
4. MOST IMPORTANT: Then drive for a few miles and don't touch the brakes, this cools them down.

At this point the vibration should go away, if not, the rotors are really warped, time to replace them.

If you replace the pads, or rotors/pads, perform this procedure after you install them.
 
Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Before you buy the parts, or if you already have, before you install them...

You need to "bed" the pads in. I have a 2014 Accord and I have to do this about once every 6 months or so. Our brakes heat up quickly and if you are stopped at a red light there will be a thin film of the brake pad that adheres to the rotor, causing vibration when you brake.

My personal bed in proedure:
1. Find a not so traveled section of road, about 6 miles long at least...
2. Accelerate to about 60 mph, climb on the brakes to about 20 mph.
3. Repeat this 3 to 4 times. You will smell brakes cooking, not to worry.
4. MOST IMPORTANT: Then drive for a few miles and don't touch the brakes, this cools them down.

At this point the vibration should go away, if not, the rotors are really warped, time to replace them.

If you replace the pads, or rotors/pads, perform this procedure after you install them.


I actually tried something like this and it seemingly got worse. Very similar to the seating test my Dad taught me years ago for new brakes. Thanks for the advice though. Someone else may see a benefit from it.
 
If you removed the wheels for any reason, tire rotation, check brakes, etc make sure you clean the back of the aluminum wheels (if equipped) and hub faces first. This is common with some cars.
 
So, if I buy the Cryo rotors, I wouldn't need to cook the rotors again since it already been done?
 
Originally Posted by Tundragod
So, if I buy the Cryo rotors, I wouldn't need to cook the rotors again since it already been done?

The rotors rarely cook, the issue is with the pad material.
 
Originally Posted by mclasser
Honda's love to chew up rotors for some reason. Another vote here for Centric rotors.

Really? Not my experience.

I'll repeat my previous recommendation for NAPA AdaptiveOne pads and Ultra Premium rotors. Fabulous together on my Pilot.
 
I have use Stop Tech para aramid pads on my Passat and they stop the car a bit better than the OEM Bosch pads. They are a tad harsh but they can save you from one of those S.O.B.s that like to stop a quarter mile early. The thing is they are less prone to fading than other pads. I once had a Jetta and tried Akebono on it and took them off very soon after and threw them away. The Akebonos just didn't stop that well and are meant more for reducing brake dust (or the appearance of it). Maybe Akebono makes a better pad? I don't see why not but those ones were not that great.
 
Originally Posted by InhalingBullets
I purchased this 2015 Accord sport used with 45k miles on the clock and it now has 53k miles. I use this as a DD but recently when braking the steering wheel has started shaking. I know that in many cases if not most, this is due to either bad rotors or uneven pad wear. The pads appear to have lots of material left but I don't know the history of the brake maintenance or lack thereof. Either way I am planning on replacing the front pads and rotors this weekend after replacing the rear upper control arms on my wife's Prius. I have considered the powerstop drilled and slotted rotor kit on RA but I am not sure if this is just overkill and I likely wouldn't receive them in time anyhow. Does anyone have any success with AZ, Orielly or NAPA rotors and pads? recommendations?

IDK how are rotors on Accord, but on my in-laws Pilot they are absolute POS, and they insist on Honda rotors every time I have to change their rotors, which is pretty much every time we visit them (and they are super slow drivers).
Wen I bought Sienna last September, within few weeks I had same issue. Having Land Crusier in Europe, I knew it is is quality of rotors.
So I went with EBC rotors and EBC Greenstuff 6000 pads. They are upgraded and do really good here in mountains. I did EBC on land Crusier Prado too, and worked great.
Now, DO NOT get drilled rotors. Get at most, if you want, slotted. Drilled rotors are not going to do anything for you except looks. And if drill is cheap, they can actually compromise integrity of a rotor. I would go with plain, but high carbon rotors (like EBC) and semi-metallic pads like EBC Greenstuff. They will dust more, but performance improvement and pedal reaction is much better.
 
Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I ended up with some Stoptech evolution pads and regular Centric rotors and got them installed right quick on Saturday morning before it hit °90F in my shop/garage. In my deconstruction of the pads and rotors I found the right side had an unknown aftermarket pad set with a Honda rotor and the left had a Honda rotor and pads which lead me to believe that there had been an issue before and they just slapped pads on it. Afterwards I did a turkey baster drain and fill of the brake reservoir with new dot 4 fluid. I followed the Stoptech recommendation for seating/wearing in the pads and rotors which gave my poor wife motion sickness, but at least I was having fun! The steering wheel shake is gone and the car is braking much smoother with zero pull.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw

IDK how are rotors on Accord, but on my in-laws Pilot they are absolute POS, and they insist on Honda rotors every time I have to change their rotors, which is pretty much every time we visit them (and they are super slow drivers).

Interesting. What was the runout measurements as mounted? Which pads were used?
 
In all my vehicles and steering shake is conclusively been root caused to pads (never have rotors been the problem, although it does become a problem if they are not taken care off).
Taking care of rotors means being nice to them, quality pads, replacing brake fluids, never taking the vehicle for a wash after a long drive etc etc when the rotors are hot.
 
I failed to mention the right side pads ( non Honda) appeared to have uneven wear to the front. I wanted to measure the difference but couldn't find my digital caliper. The disadvantage to having a 30'X50' shop is that there are many more places for stuff to get lost, or for the FIL to hide stuff.
 
Originally Posted by InhalingBullets
I failed to mention the right side pads ( non Honda) appeared to have uneven wear to the front. I wanted to measure the difference but couldn't find my digital caliper. The disadvantage to having a 30'X50' shop is that there are many more places for stuff to get lost, or for the FIL to hide stuff.

Mixed pads, especially on a used rotor, is (the previous owner) asking for trouble. But if pad wear is uneven, the state of the caliper and pins must be questioned.
 
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