Oil & Timing Chains

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Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1



Keep your day job there was at least 3K more miles of useable life left on your OCI. TBN of 2.7 oil was grade there was no need to change other to please your state of mind.

Ill change my oil whenever I feel like it. Still usable or not, it will be changed at 5k miles.
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1



Keep your day job there was at least 3K more miles of useable life left on your OCI. TBN of 2.7 oil was grade there was no need to change other to please your state of mind.

Ill change my oil whenever I feel like it. Still usable or not, it will be changed at 5k miles.


I'm 100% with you! I drive about 20 miles a day broken up into 4 trips, and I also idle the engine a great deal more than the avg driver. Because of this it takes nearly 4 months to put 3000 miles on my engine, and thus I change my engine oil, trans oil (5 qt), and 12 ounces of power steering every 4 months (roughly 3000 miles), and also the rear diff is simply done every three years. Is doing this overkill? Probably and probably not, and I'll never know because I don't do any tests. All the oils are synthetics and I'll keep it that way. I've always over done it with the vehicles I own and will continue.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1



Keep your day job there was at least 3K more miles of useable life left on your OCI. TBN of 2.7 oil was grade there was no need to change other to please your state of mind.

Ill change my oil whenever I feel like it. Still usable or not, it will be changed at 5k miles.

Well you made a false statement you have no idea how to interpret a UOA.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1



Keep your day job there was at least 3K more miles of useable life left on your OCI. TBN of 2.7 oil was grade there was no need to change other to please your state of mind.

Ill change my oil whenever I feel like it. Still usable or not, it will be changed at 5k miles.

Well you made a false statement you have no idea how to interpret a UOA.

And you have no idea how to do anything but criticize and attack every other person's post. The oil sheared down to a 0w16 can you not interpret that? Oh, but there was still 3k miles left on my oil! Yeah right pall. Get a life.
 
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Don't waste your time on perpetually negative Nancies.

More frequent oil changes decreases the average concentration of soot in the oil. Even when fully dispersed, soot induces wear because there are some parts that have smaller film thickness than a GDI soot particle. It induces even more wear at a given soot concentration when it is not fully dispersed because the clumps of multiple particles cause wear at larger film thicknesses than a solo soot particle can. This gives it more opportunities to cause wear. Plus when the clump does cause wear, it can make a more severe gouge than a smaller solo particle.
 
I am thinking of getting a Ford Ranger. Seems to me I am better off using the cheapest oil that meets spec and change it often. Any thing wrong with changing the filter every other oil change ? Not much left of the old oil in the filter. If I remember correctly soot is not capture by the filter.
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

And you have no idea how to do anything but criticize and attack every other person's post. The oil sheared down to a 0w16 can you not interpret that? Oh, but there was still 3k miles left on my oil! Yeah right pall. Get a life.

If you posts facts I have nothing to criticize posting facts is not hard. You can also post opinion if add the caveat it's your opinion but not fact. Your UOA showed the CST at 100C 7CST and at 40C it was 50 CST both are still 20 grades. Learn how to read a chart.
 
J300 shows the bottom end of 20 weight range as 6.9 cSt ... so at 7 cSt it was ready to fall into the 16 weight range.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
J300 shows the bottom end of 20 weight range as 6.9 cSt ... so at 7 cSt it was ready to fall into the 16 weight range.

The exact CST was 7.26 even at 7.0 it is not a 20 grade.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
J300 shows the bottom end of 20 weight range as 6.9 cSt ... so at 7 cSt it was ready to fall into the 16 weight range.

The exact CST was 7.26 even at 7.0 it is not a 20 grade.


If he ran it much longer like some suggested, it would most likely have sheared into the 16 weight range.
 
I maintain two cars that produce a carbon/soot like substance in the oil filter. Both receive cheap store brand oil, usually synthetic, 8,000 mile OCIs, mixed driving in Toronto's climate and both engines are known for timing chain problems. Currently over 200,000 miles on each vehicle. I think this soot and timing chain wear concern is over stated. If the chain, sprockets and guides are well made they seem to last the life of the car.

No doubt after I post this, my engine will skip time and bend all the valves.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
J300 shows the bottom end of 20 weight range as 6.9 cSt ... so at 7 cSt it was ready to fall into the 16 weight range.

The exact CST was 7.26 even at 7.0 it is not a 20 grade.


If he ran it much longer like some suggested, it would most likely have sheared into the 16 weight range. From lots of UOA data summarized on the Mustang boards, it shows that Motorcraft shears quite a bit, more than most oils.



At this point it starts to oxidize and thicken. Do we really want to start mental gymnastics on what may have happened? Because the point was false hyperbole was presented as fact and you are doing a commendable job of attempting to distract from the facts of the post which was the lube was serviceable at the time of the change and within grade. Contradicting the poster.
 
An oil/filter change BEFORE shearing out of grade is a timing chain's friend
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Originally Posted by WobblyElvis
I maintain two cars that produce a carbon/soot like substance in the oil filter. Both receive cheap store brand oil, usually synthetic, 8,000 mile OCIs, mixed driving in Toronto's climate and both engines are known for timing chain problems. Currently over 200,000 miles on each vehicle. I think this soot and timing chain wear concern is over stated. If the chain, sprockets and guides are well made they seem to last the life of the car.

No doubt after I post this, my engine will skip time and bend all the valves.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by dave1251
ZeeOSix said:
J300 shows the bottom end of 20 weight range as 6.9 cSt ... so at 7 cSt it was ready to fall into the 16 weight range.

The exact CST was 7.26 even at 7.0 it is not a 20 grade.

At this point it starts to oxidize and thicken. Do we really want to start mental gymnastics on what may have happened?


You mean like the "mental gymnastics" of claiming it starts to oxidize and thicken at this exact point. Fact is it sheared down to nearly a 16 weight (starts at 6.9 cSt) at way less mileage then some recommend using it to. If the OP wants to change it early because of that, then who's to say he should run it longer ... especially since they don't own the vehicle or pay for his oil changes.
 
It did not shear and we don't know if it would shear beyond 7.26 or thicken. You are good at throwing hypotheticals to support the outcome you desire but not accepting the fact of what actually happened.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
It did not shear and we don't know if it would shear beyond 7.26 or thicken. You are good at throwing hypotheticals to support the outcome you desire but not accepting the fact of what actually happened.


What do you mean it didn't shear. What was the KV100 on his new oil (show the source) since you seem to know it all. I know Motorcraft 5W-20 is 8.5 cSt, which if his started there it sheared down15% in 5K miles.
 
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