2008 Ford Ranger 4.0 Air Conditioning

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Can the clutch plate, shims and pulley hub be serviced as located without un-mounting the compressor?

Most video viewed shows the removal and replacement in a bench setting. I want to complete the tasks by taking the serpentine belt off and going after it without having to evacuate the refrigerant.

Thanks.
 
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The first step in the FSM for changing the clutch/pulley/field is to remove the compressor from the vehicle. That being said I'm sure if there is enough room you could do it.
 
Looks like there's room and if the clutch plate comes off after taking out the center bolt, it seems that there will be even more room for taking off the c-clip and putting a puller on the hub.

This is the noted rusted clutch plate still being pulled by the field but noticeably slipping.

Thanks.
 
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I'd try removing the clutch plate, take some shims out, and put it back on and test. Close up the gap as much as you can without having it drag while off.
 
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By looking previous at the rust residue that has been laid from the radiator rearward to the brake master cylinder, I purchased and anticipate arrival tomorrow both Motorcraft replacement parts. This truck is a new to me with 75k I posted about previously. I am currently going through it, finding issues to solve and am sure will be asking BITOG how-to proceed.
 
I have worked on GM compressors in the past . Shaft seal replacement . Not Ford .

Too much wear or too much rust on the clutch ? Is the electromagnet OK ?

Any photos ?
 
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Replacement was reasonable. Motorcraft parts. Snap ring removal required 90 degree pliers and a mirror. The bearing was bad in the pulley. Filled with rust I suspect. I'll put the gauges on it tomorrow and bring it into spec. BDCardinal.. spot on. Thanks.
 
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