Oil & Timing Chains

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I know this subject has been beaten to death several times now, and there was even a Pennzoil Q&A on the subject, but i havent read anything about extended drain intervals vs timing chain wear. Is this not a consideration to anyone pushing 10-20k mile oci? Pennzoil and many other oils on the shelf do not reccomend extended drain intervals so it had me thinking perhaps the dispersant additives arent up to the task after 5k miles?

Q&A from Pennzoil:

Q: How much can motor oil really affect the wear on the valve train? Timing chain?

A: For timing chains, in addition to the need for correct wear protection additives and friction modifiers, the oil formulators also watch the dispersants in the oil quite closely. The fear is that without a suitable dispersant, soot and carbon in the oil could collect inside the pins of the chain and create wear or limit movement that would result in the chain's effective length changing. If the chain's effective length changes even slightly, it can be sensed by the ECM and create problems.
 
motor oil is relatively CHEAP + repairs are $$$$$. its also noted that slightly higher viscosity at running temperatures protect EVERYTHING better.
 
It's also extremely important to get oil onto the chains & pressurize the tensioner as quickly as possible, that's why Ford changed the modular V8 & V6 oil filter recommendation to silicone ADBVs to keep oil in the galleries after shutdown. I'm still not 100% convinced that (somewhat) thin oil (which generally means synblend or full syn) can't do a good job on timing chains, there's a huge number of high mileage Toyotas (& other makes) still running original timing sets.
 
I wonder if it's a problem with dispersants. More like, just total crud floating around. Small or large. Long chains mean lots more points of wear. I guess it wasn't a problem before DI but now with DI being common, maybe it's different--seems hard to believe, diesels don't have that issue.

Regardless. IMO oil is cheap, just change every 5 to 10k. Sleep better at night. If you really want to conserve, drive less.
 
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .
 
Soot contamination in the oil is what gets chains (among other things). TGDI engines have soot issues so I've limited my OCIs to 5k or less. My new 3.5 Ecoboost has dual injection; hopefully soot production will be curtailed somewhat. What I have noticed is that my new ‘boost soots the tailpipe way less than my old one. I've got nearly 2k miles on the new ‘boost and the tailpipe is still clean. In that many miles the pipe on my old one would look like the La Brea tar pits!
It's been said that at idle and low power settings it's port fuel only. Demand for higher power is when the DI kicks in.
 
Originally Posted by benjy
motor oil is relatively CHEAP + repairs are $$$$$. its also noted that slightly higher viscosity at running temperatures protect EVERYTHING better.


Once again higher viscosity wins
shocked2.gif
 
That's why I like the new D1 / Gen 2 ; SN+ synthetic oils for better timing chain protection .
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .

Add me to the list.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .

Add me to the list.


Ditto here.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .

Add me to the list.


Ditto here.


What is considered a "little soon?"

3000 miles? <5000 miles?
 
I go 5K on synthetic and 3K on some engines like the Honda J35 with VCM, or known sludge engines eg Toyota 3.0, VW 1.8 turbo. Saab 2.0 and 2.4 turbo, etc.
The short OCI keeps them clean and going nicely.
Oil is the life blood of the engine why go all elcheapo with it, with engine oil prices in the US there is no reason for trying to squeeze the last mile out of it.

49.gif
 
Originally Posted by Bullet
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .

Add me to the list.


Ditto here.


What is considered a "little soon?"

3000 miles? div>

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by benjy
motor oil is relatively CHEAP + repairs are $$$$$. its also noted that slightly higher viscosity at running temperatures protect EVERYTHING better.



And frequent changes at best kick the can down the road and maybe does nothing. If it's a bad design it's a bad design.
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe

Ford reccomends my truck to have the oil changed at 5 to 10k miles. There was almost nothing left of my motorcraft fs on a 5k mile run, so thats how long i feel comfortable running it. Changing too soon will cause more engine wear than edi is a myth. There is absolutely no proof that changing oil too soon is bad for your engine. There is a long thread about it with 0 answers here.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1900212/1



Keep your day job there was at least 3K more miles of useable life left on your OCI. TBN of 2.7 oil was grade there was no need to change other to please your state of mind.
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
It's also extremely important to get oil onto the chains & pressurize the tensioner as quickly as possible, that's why Ford changed the modular V8 & V6 oil filter recommendation to silicone ADBVs to keep oil in the galleries after shutdown. I'm still not 100% convinced that (somewhat) thin oil (which generally means synblend or full syn) can't do a good job on timing chains, there's a huge number of high mileage Toyotas (& other makes) still running original timing sets.

They had their fair share of issues with timing chains. Updated one solved issue. It is same across the board. It seems that field testing does not show that issue until engines are on teh street for few years.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I will agree with benjy , oil / filter is a relitivly cheap insurance & I can not think of any harm being done to the engine , if the oil/filter is changed a little soon .

Add me to the list.


Ditto here.

Mega-dittos.
 
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