This oil (or Liquid Gold?) is perhaps the most hotly contested maintenance fluid on the Toyota forums (virgin analysis can be found here: Toyota 75W T-Case Oil). The manual calls it out specifically, and there seems to be no dead-set answer on what an acceptable alternative is. Most dealers don't even know about it when you call the parts department, and the service department says bulk 75W-90 is what they put in there with no issue (this is based on my converstaions with dealers, as well as experience of many others). To top it off, the parts department wants $90/L to order it in (I need 1.5L) or it can be found online for maybe $65/L.

I feel like my wife's 2012 4Runner Limited is due for a change of the factory fill at 80K+ miles, so I'm on the hunt for an acceptable alternative. I've already got my M1 75W-90 for the diffs, and all I need now if this dang T-case oil! I've spent hours searching this topic, so I figure I'd ask the experts here. Is it stupid of me to try to save $100 on this oil, or do you think there is a now a viable aftermarket option? The three I've been looking at are:

- Ravenol MTF-3
- Royal Purple Synchromax
- Red Line MT-LV

What do you think is the most robust oil out of the above? I truly appreciate any input y'all have!

I've been running the Ravenol MTF-3 in my 4runner since August with nary an issue. Over the winter switched in and out of 4WD with quick and smooth operation.

That being said, it's only been a few months. But I can't imagine having any issues with the Ravenol. Also have the Ravenol 75w85 in both diffs. So far running smooth as silk!

scare tactics are common in many sectors, especially the medical profession because it works. in warranty vehicle owners are most likely to "bite". that subject is discussed heavily on toyota forums for sure + likely similar lubes will work without issue but until someone uses other fluids + racks up the miles without issue its anybody's guess. in my 2011 nissan frontiers rear diff factory lube is overpriced semi-syn 75-140 but i put redline 75-90 real synthetic as recommended on the spicer-dana site as the rear is a nissan spec dana 44.

Hate to say it guys, but I caved and bought the expensive stuff. This 4Runner has treated us well for 80K miles and I plan on keeping it much longer. Being a Limited, it has the full time T-Case and I haven't seen many comments on people specifically using other oils in that one; I do know there were some comments about not ever using the wrong oil in the GX460 which has the same setup. I also know you can't really trust a single UOA, but it appears the additive pack is pretty robust in it.

Ended up finding out that buying parts off my dealer's website is much cheaper than ordering on the phone; ended up getting it for $59/L. I was also able to order a set of front brake pads and my preferred 04152-YZZA5 oil filter for cheaper than I can get them off Amazon!

You did fine IMO, take any guess work out of it.
Think of the cost differential over 80k and it’s imperceptible. I use overpriced DW-1 in my Accord and I used the liquid silver Toyota 75w85 in the RX diff and t-case last year at around 50k with no regret

75w-90 GL-5 oil. I have the Valvoline non-synthetic 75w-90 in my Tacoma's TC with no issues approaching 100,000 miles. Any 75w-90 gear oil will suffice, I change out the oil every 25,000 to 30,000 miles. .

My Yaris cals for 75W in his A53 MMT gearbox...planning to use elf 75w80 NFJ instead...ot is slightly thicker then 75w...but idk

https://catalog.elf.com/en/products/nq7/TRANSELF-NFJ-75W-80

I run 75w110 in both x-case and diff for the last 150K miles and no deterioration or gain in MPG.
Being in TX 110 will be most effective with the heat cycles out here and although I have RL personally prefer Amsoil SV* fluid.

The additive pack in the Toyota 75WLF fluid is super robust. Probably has to be with that light weight fluid. If it didn’t run that, I’d probably stick with a 75w90 (would have to research if would use a gl4 or gl5). The old school can is a nuisance but good for shelf life.

Curious as to how you are adding the new fill to the TC. Funnel/hose?
BC

I dumped it into 2 standard plastic gear oil quart containers. I fitted a 5/16 ID Vinyl hose on it and squeezed it in. Worked well.

This is what I've read on numerous forums also - that folks are using the same 75w-90 that goes in the differentials, without issue.

But you can't go wrong with the Toyota fluid....and based on M-M, don't they have to supply it since it is the only fluid listed?

Old thread I know, but I wanted to chime in for future readers. I have a 2016 Tacoma with this chain driven electronically actuated bull [censored] transfer case. I'm more of a shift lever guy. Anyways, I've done extensive research on this. I'm no engineer so take everything I say with a grain of salt, but id like to think that ive taken an educated approach and I do have a background in automotive repair and mechanical repairs.

I've taken a very thorough look through the parts diagrams of the transfer case. Without getting into all the mumbo jumbo of how the system operates, the components that need to be addressed are bearings, chain, gears, clutch and a synchro. The components that stick out in terms of being defining points on what kind of fluid is used are the chain, clutch and synchro. The clutch isn't a friction clutch, rather a sliding ring with straight cut grooves that slide over a shaft, nothing fancy there, just needs oil. The synchronizer is a single cone style synchronizer, the only hiccup here is that I can't say what the material is. To be safe we can speculate we might need a brass safe fluid. Chains naturally like thin oils that can seep into the rollers and lubricate as well as washout any contamination. Working with industrial machines that use chains left and right this seems to be the approach when lubrication is done on set intervals. In applications where the chain is in constant lubrication we use lubricants that I can say look, smell, and pour like gear oil with a fancy name on it. The idea here is if something is dunked in oil all the time, the oil will work its way into the rollers and do its thing as the chain moves. But say on a bicycle or motorcycle where you lubricate the chains every so often you need that fluid to work its way in quickly because anything that doesn't will either fling off once ridden or drip off(not an issue with a closed in constant lube design). My opinion is that the chain doesn't require anything special in this situation, any sort of lubricant will work, and it's more important that it be changed on a regular basis to get contaminants out.

All in all there is nothing special or exotic in the transfer case. This is most likely another MPG driven decision by Toyota while trying to address possible lack of service by the customer, long service interval, and reliability. General motors specs dex 6 in their chain transfer cases. I think the fluid needs can be met by a wide range of different fluids. I personally put 75w90 GL5 gear oil in my transfer case at around 5k miles, currently at 60k. However I'm thinking the best and safest approach is to use some sort of GL4 fluid, with the weight rating not mattering too much in terms of reliability but affecting your MPG and cold shift performance.

I think RED LINE MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 GEAR OIL has nearly the same viscosity specifications (6.5 cSt) and anti-Wear DI package as does the Toyota low viscosity (LV) TC fluid:


Redline MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 PDS

A 75W90 gear oil is much thicker with about a 14.5 cSt viscosity at 100C.

My manual for '97 LC says 75w90 GL4/5 for both MT & trans... Trans has also chain in it...