Has anyone used this high dollar/little known stop leak?

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Crystal River, Fl
I just put it in my 98 Ford Ranger 4.0 engine 106 K miles with leaky valve covers. Say idle 20 min and drive 200 miles as normal. Has 50/50 mix of 5-50W Castrol Syntech/ Rotella 5/40 syntech in it w/1000 miles on oil and Fram ultra Filter for synethic oil. 15 miles on it to early to tell if it works.

https://www.titansealers.com/oil-stop-leak.html

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You use those magic potions to try and fix hard to repair parts like a leaking rear main seal. Geez, 80 bucks? How hard is it to replace valve cover gaskets?
 
my 1990 Ranger took me over 4 hrs to change valve cover gasket on a 2.9 v6. Everything is in the way. Worst one I have ever done. Now My 65 VW bug is maybe a 30 minute job with a cup of coffee.
 
The 4.0l v6 valve cover gaskets are miserable to change. Just touching the junk plastic cooling system parts are bound to cause a leak when doing them too. I would try anything. Doubt it will work. Once you change them you will see why.
 
Welcome to bitog. Never heard of that product....Some seals just have to be replaced. Good luck with the leak. Let us know how it works long term...
 
I recently bought a 97 ford explorer 5.0 that had been sitting for about 5 years in a shed.


after i fixed it up and got it roadworthy the valve cover gaskets began leaking etc.
I snugged up all the bolts and it slowed down a smidge.

wasn't a terrible leak but it would seep down onto the exhaust and you could smell a wiff of the oil here and there.


anyways this last oil change I decided to experiment with the Engine Restore additive. I put in some Chevron Delo 10w30 that i got for cheap and the Engine restore. and it is no longer leaving a little oil spot on the floor and nor do I smell any oil burning off the exhaust. I have yet to glance up from underneath and see if the oil leak has stopped completely.


No idea why the restore slowed/stopped the gasket leak.......guess the additives that fill in worn out areas maybe filled in some imperfections of the gasket/valve cover area.
 
Their warranty has me scratching my head. From what I gather it is not a money back warranty, if the leak doesn't stop they'll send you another bottle to try again. I guess it might be worth a shot, but I would be more willing to try it had they offered a money back guarantee. If I read it wrong and they'll refund the money my apologies.

I'd be interested in the results.
 
Originally Posted by Ernie45
It's the OHV, probably does not like that I moved to Fl. From Hudson Valley in 2001.

I think it does :lol:
Would it like to have every metal tube replaced? And maybe even a torsion bar snap from corrosion?

I also have that engine, it leaks a bit. I don't think you have the EGR nightmare to deal with. Still a lousy job to change a valve cover gasket.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
I would be more willing to try it had they offered a money back guarantee.


If they did that, so many people would say it didn't work even if it did, that they would go out of business sending refunds.
 
I also replaced something that is an idle solenoid that caused something called Ranger moan. The one spark plug was fouling from coolant leaking into plug from intake manifold.
Bars leak liquid copper stopped it. I also did all the ball joints and tie rod ends because of torn boots. The upper moog ones now have marine rtv on then. I also hate the vacuum shift 4wd but don't need it in Fl. I just got a new to me oem rim and
Now have a real spare from best old tire. Real fun is putting those camber adjustment things in the upper suspension A frames. Owning this thing is love/hate thank you for comments and interest.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Their warranty has me scratching my head. From what I gather it is not a money back warranty, if the leak doesn't stop they'll send you another bottle to try again. I guess it might be worth a shot, but I would be more willing to try it had they offered a money back guarantee. If I read it wrong and they'll refund the money my apologies.

I'd be interested in the results.


That sounds like the guarantee for the "5 minute Abs"..if you don't get that 6pk the first time, they send you out another 5mins for free!...‚

Here's hoping it helps but realize it's a band aid. Eventually you're going to have to do those valve covers. That was my experience with stop leaks and a leaky valve cover. It stopped for a while then started to leak again and where the leak was, the oil was getting onto/into my alternator. That's when I decided to do it right and pull the valve covers. And yeah, it's easily a 4hr job because just about everything has to come off it seemed. Grrr...
 
Originally Posted by Ernie45
I also replaced something that is an idle solenoid that caused something called Ranger moan. The one spark plug was fouling from coolant leaking into plug from intake manifold.
Bars leak liquid copper stopped it. I also did all the ball joints and tie rod ends because of torn boots. The upper moog ones now have marine rtv on then. I also hate the vacuum shift 4wd but don't need it in Fl. I just got a new to me oem rim and
Now have a real spare from best old tire. Real fun is putting those camber adjustment things in the upper suspension A frames. Owning this thing is love/hate thank you for comments and interest.



Was it the IAC valve aka Idle air control valve?

Sone contours and mystiques and probably cougars with the 2.5 had an issue causing a noise like moaning and was called moosing.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Their warranty has me scratching my head. From what I gather it is not a money back warranty, if the leak doesn't stop they'll send you another bottle to try again. I guess it might be worth a shot, but I would be more willing to try it had they offered a money back guarantee. If I read it wrong and they'll refund the money my apologies.

I'd be interested in the results.


That sounds like the guarantee for the "5 minute Abs"..if you don't get that 6pk the first time, they send you out another 5mins for free!...‚

Here's hoping it helps but realize it's a band aid. Eventually you're going to have to do those valve covers. That was my experience with stop leaks and a leaky valve cover. It stopped for a while then started to leak again and where the leak was, the oil was getting onto/into my alternator. That's when I decided to do it right and pull the valve covers. And yeah, it's easily a 4hr job because just about everything has to come off it seemed. Grrr...

That pretty much sums it up.
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After a little more thought I'd pass, and look for a product that offers a real money back guarantee, or even better bite the bullet and make the necessary repairs.
 
Originally Posted by Ernie45
I just put it in my 98 Ford Ranger 4.0 engine 106 K miles with leaky valve covers... l


Leaky valve covers use gaskets, not elastomeric seals.


Originally Posted by Molakule
When discussing seals such as in engines, transmissions, and other driveline components, the context is that of using flexible, elastomeric materials to keep fluids contained within the mechanical system that have rotating components exiting the system, such as protruding rotating shafts.

For a gasket, the context is that of using a material (such as silicone or cork or composite), or some other material to keep fluids contained in and around stationary objects, such as the valve cover gasket on an engine or the pan gasket on an automatic transmission.

Both seals and gaskets "prevent" loss of fluids...

Conditioning seals refers to the following actions:

1) Increasing seal pliability due to Seal elastomer molecular replacement
2) Seal cleaning,

Today's synthetic formulations have pretty much solved the seal "shrink-swell" problem.

Stop leak fluids have little effect on Gaskets, so if you have a leak to the outside, it is usually due to a Gasket, not a Seal.

Now on older vehicles or vehicles with rear wheel drives, the most common fluid leak occurs because of a worn tailshaft seal, and is mostly seen when parking on an upslope where the rear of the vehicle is below the front.

On front wheel drive vehicles, the most common fluid leak is due to the pan gasket, in my experience.
 
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