Purging ABS system ?
- Thread starter Gebo
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The only time you need to purge the ABS is if you do something to allow air to enter the master cylinder. If air never gets in there, you won't need to do it.
Purging the ABS module of air varies from vehicle to vehicle, but almost universally requires a computer scanner to engage the ABS pump.
Some are kind of basic. You can only run the ABS pump as a test function and work your way through that.
Some are very advanced and have a full auto-bleed setup that guides you step by step through the entire process and activates the pump at the right time, for the right time to achieve a complete purge at each wheel as you go.
Purging the ABS module of air varies from vehicle to vehicle, but almost universally requires a computer scanner to engage the ABS pump.
Some are kind of basic. You can only run the ABS pump as a test function and work your way through that.
Some are very advanced and have a full auto-bleed setup that guides you step by step through the entire process and activates the pump at the right time, for the right time to achieve a complete purge at each wheel as you go.
I should have added that the auto bleed also hits the right solenoids and valves at the right moments so you do not even need to open the bleeder but once. The module works everything just right so you can just pump away on the brake pedal as the procedure is going with the bleeder valve on the brake caliper wide open the whole duration of the purge at each wheel.
Supposedly this scanner performs an auto bleed if your vehicle has that option. Was thinking about buying it if it actually works. A lot of reviews say it does on GM trucks.
Autel MaxiCheck Pro Diagnostic Tool for ABS Brake Auto Bleed, Oil Service, ABS, SRS, BMS, DPF, EPB Service, SAS, Oil Light/Service Reset Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RXO8Cb3SPHXGQ
Autel MaxiCheck Pro Diagnostic Tool for ABS Brake Auto Bleed, Oil Service, ABS, SRS, BMS, DPF, EPB Service, SAS, Oil Light/Service Reset Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RXO8Cb3SPHXGQ
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
I feel like I read somewhere some cars are more prone than others to getting air into ABS when bleeding traditionally. But can't find the article on Google.
I feel like I read somewhere some cars are more prone than others to getting air into ABS when bleeding traditionally. But can't find the article on Google.
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A techstream clone cost about $20 and can bleed ABS brakes.
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Originally Posted by HowAboutThis
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
Originally Posted by ford46guy
A techstream clone cost about $20 and can bleed ABS brakes.
Only on a Toyota.
A techstream clone cost about $20 and can bleed ABS brakes.
Only on a Toyota.
Or just have a qualified shop or your trusted dealership do it (since they have all the equipment) and be done with it (especially if they guarantee their work). Not something that has to be done all that often to justify buying the specialized equipment yourself IMHO.
Originally Posted by WhizkidTN
Or just have a qualified shop or your trusted dealership do it (since they have all the equipment) and be done with it (especially if they guarantee their work). Not something that has to be done all that often to justify buying the specialized equipment yourself IMHO.
$70-120 for a shop every 2-3 years. Or $40 for a Mighty Vac and $15 of fluid. Hmm...
Or just have a qualified shop or your trusted dealership do it (since they have all the equipment) and be done with it (especially if they guarantee their work). Not something that has to be done all that often to justify buying the specialized equipment yourself IMHO.
$70-120 for a shop every 2-3 years. Or $40 for a Mighty Vac and $15 of fluid. Hmm...
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Originally Posted by HowAboutThis
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
Nothing like bleeding brakes on a gravel back road somewhere.
Originally Posted by HowAboutThis
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
Nothing like bleeding brakes on a gravel back road somewhere.
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Supposedly this scanner performs an auto bleed if your vehicle has that option. Was thinking about buying it if it actually works. A lot of reviews say it does on GM trucks.
Autel MaxiCheck Pro Diagnostic Tool for ABS Brake Auto Bleed, Oil Service, ABS, SRS, BMS, DPF, EPB Service, SAS, Oil Light/Service Reset Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RXO8Cb3SPHXGQ
It does. I've done the auto bleed on a Corvette with one. Worked like a charm.
Supposedly this scanner performs an auto bleed if your vehicle has that option. Was thinking about buying it if it actually works. A lot of reviews say it does on GM trucks.
Autel MaxiCheck Pro Diagnostic Tool for ABS Brake Auto Bleed, Oil Service, ABS, SRS, BMS, DPF, EPB Service, SAS, Oil Light/Service Reset Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RXO8Cb3SPHXGQ
It does. I've done the auto bleed on a Corvette with one. Worked like a charm.
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Originally Posted by HowAboutThis
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
Nothing like bleeding brakes on a gravel back road somewhere.
That's why I did it at home, had access to a gravel road within about a 10-15 minute drive, and drove there. Probably not feasible if you live in NY or LA...
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Originally Posted by HowAboutThis
I used to bleed my Honda with ABS in this manner: Bleed with my Mighty Vac keeping the master cylinder filled. Drive the car slowly checking the brakes often and checking for leaks when I stop. Then take car to gravel road and slam brakes on so ABS cycles. Figured the old fluid then mixed in with the mostly new fluid. Did this every 2-3 years. May or may not work for you.
.
This! Bleed...go on a gravel road...slam your brakes so that ABS activates 2-3 times...than bleed again for just in case scenario...job done
Nothing like bleeding brakes on a gravel back road somewhere.
That's why I did it at home, had access to a gravel road within about a 10-15 minute drive, and drove there. Probably not feasible if you live in NY or LA...
But wait. Doesn't ABS perform like the tide in a sealed brake system? So how would anything other than having the system open when the ABS is in operation actually purge the fluid inside the ABS?
Yes and no. There's a little "circulation" that occurs when ABS is activated. You can do a "gravel road" bleed, but nowhere near as effective or easy as using a tool.
You'll be fine without a "purge" on many Toyotas. Now, if it's a Prius or any of the hybrids you will need Techstream or a aftermarket scan tool that can do the Toyota-specific functions to bleed the ECB(hybrids). Techstream would be nice to have on the GX and GS.
The LC/4Runner-based trucks as well as the GS use a electrohydraulic brake booster with a brake bomb(accumulator) - it looks like this: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ee/5b/72/ee5b728dbaa7d78c37ed7d20d8e25e06.jpg
The LS won't need Techstream.
The LC/4Runner-based trucks as well as the GS use a electrohydraulic brake booster with a brake bomb(accumulator) - it looks like this: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ee/5b/72/ee5b728dbaa7d78c37ed7d20d8e25e06.jpg
The LS won't need Techstream.
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