Oil and filter 9000miles trip with 7000lbs trailer.

[PandaBear]

If I were you, I would use one of those 15k or 20k miles guarantee synthetic (i.e. Castrol Edge EP), and forget about changing in the middle of the trip. Your priority would be the long drain instead of HTHS, and not wasting time on the road changing oil.

Switch to a 5w30 or 10w30 if you are concerned about thickness.

 

[kstanf150]

Originally Posted by MagneticFX

I will change oil at 4000-4500 miles thats should be 1/2 of the trip.


If your gonna change your oil around 4500 miles
Run anything that's good quality and your good to go
Don't sweat the small stuff ðŸ‘
QSUD 5W-30 would be an excellent choice

 

[DoubleNickels]

Originally Posted by PimTac
That is severe service. Why not change the oil at a predetermined point along the way? Towing 7000 pounds over the Rockies is hard work for any engine no matter what the commercials say.

Originally Posted by MagneticFX

I will change oil at 4000-4500 miles thats should be 1/2 of the trip.


Start trip with fresh oil and filter. Change at end of the line before turning back. Change again when you get home.

Then to please everyone, send in samples for analysis.

 

[Audios]

Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Originally Posted by PimTac
That is severe service. Why not change the oil at a predetermined point along the way? Towing 7000 pounds over the Rockies is hard work for any engine no matter what the commercials say.

Originally Posted by MagneticFX

I will change oil at 4000-4500 miles thats should be 1/2 of the trip.


Start trip with fresh oil and filter. Change at end of the line before turning back. Change again when you get home.

Then to please everyone, send in samples for analysis.


This! I may step it up to something a bit thicker, 40wt or so, but whatever you chose, bring whatever you want the place to throw in. Or for science, try one combo on the way out, get a sample, and try another on the way back.

 

[ChrisD46]

M1 5W30 EP or EDGE 5W30 Extended with Fram Ultra filter - go the entire 9,000 mile run and top off as required ?

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Vanilla M-1 5W30 twice, now and at the halfway mark.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
M1 5W30 EP or EDGE 5W30 Extended with Fram Ultra filter - go the entire 9,000 mile run and top off as required ?
Originally Posted by PandaBear
If I were you, I would use one of those 15k or 20k miles guarantee synthetic (i.e. Castrol Edge EP), and forget about changing in the middle of the trip..
Yes. There was another thread on here the other day, with somebody from the U.S.A. planning a trip to a warm climate (thru Mexico, south of that more too) in a Jeep. That was about as long of a vacation, and he wanted to change his oil in a foreign country, with unknown-quality central american swill, in the middle of the vacation. I also said there to bring a quart or two of top-off oil and use the best M1 EP, AP, Castrol Edge EP, Amsoil SS, u know, and an Ultra.
What is it with people who want to change oil on vacation? Me no understand.

 

[StevieC]

I'd use M1 AP / EP for that kind of mileage for a shelf oil and I would use a Fram Ultra filter. If you manual says to use thicker while towing then do so otherwise the 20wt will be fine, the engineers that designed your vehicle know what they are doing.

If you want an API licensed oil with a higher HTHS (2.8 for the 5w20 and 3.3 for the 5w30) and that is reasonably priced in the Canadian market for that kind of extended drain mileage and aren't opposed to Amsoil the XL line is excellent for this.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...20-xl-extended-life-synthetic-motor-oil/
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g1404.pdf

IMO the Pennzoil additive package won't last that long under that kind of stress from the UOA's I see here where it's beat up before then.

 

[CT8]

Any of the long life oils will easily do the miles with out an oil change half way. The BITOG postings are mostly like repeating the oil company marketing claims.

 

[GMBoy]

Let's be realistic. You will be working that motor hard but then you will be changing the oil out around 4500-5000 miles into the trip so any decent oil will hold up. Me, personally, I would use your choice of full synthetic (my preference would be Mobil 1 EP or PP/PUP) in a 5w/30 if allowed and run it to 5000-6000 miles. If you must run 5w/20 then I would do the original plan of 45-5000 mile change. Either way use the Oil filter of your choice.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
M1 5W30 EP or EDGE 5W30 Extended with Fram Ultra filter - go the entire 9,000 mile run and top off as required ?


This before PP …

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Ford specs are minimum for daily driving. Go to the back of the the owners manual, and you will find maintenance schedule for severe duty. 5W-20 synthetic blend should be switched to full synthetic, and maybe even 5W-30. Although some people will say that the engine was engineered for the lower viscosity oil, and a thicker oil may be harmful.

Ford does not test engines only for everyday driving each new engine design is tested in extreme environments and conditions for thousands of hours. Using the recommended grade is not the bear minimum for viscosity protection there is still room for loss.

 

[kfy81]

This is an interesting thread! Thank you MagFX for posing us with this. Also, thanks MNgopher and DoubleNickels for the insight and humor!

 

[Malo83]

Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Originally Posted by PimTac
That is severe service. Why not change the oil at a predetermined point along the way? Towing 7000 pounds over the Rockies is hard work for any engine no matter what the commercials say.

Originally Posted by MagneticFX

I will change oil at 4000-4500 miles thats should be 1/2 of the trip.


Start trip with fresh oil and filter. Change at end of the line before turning back. Change again when you get home.

Then to please everyone, send in samples for analysis.

 

[GumbyJarvis]

Why not Motorcraft 5w30?

 

[DoubleNickels]

Originally Posted by MNgopher


The truck does have an OLM. ...)


The oil life monitor uses an algorithm which factors in input from the vehicle's sensors.

Ford specs the oil and filter. Or an online fan club will insist that you follow their advice.

You may decide different based upon your beliefs and life experiences.

You either trust the engineers who designed the car. Or trust a bunch of people online.


After a little reading, you will find that a select collective worships at the Temple of Fram. Those things change over time. Once upon a time, Fram wasn't worth the $3.99 it sold for. Then there's the volunteer brigade of Mobil 1 publicist. At least the Amsoil pushers got paid. No different than Redline being located in my area, and their reps were at every auto related event, making recommendations.


I've used Mobil 1. I still use Mobil 1. It's a good oil. But not the only good oil. It's in my garage and cars, along with other good oil. As a matter of fact, I'm buying 5 quarts of Mobil 1 today. As a lot of people know, there's a coupon. It's paired with a Motorcraft filter. Why? Because I bought a case at a very low price, and haven't used them all yet. Next time I shop for filters, I'll buy whatever else might be selling for a low price. You should use whatever you want.

 

[DGXR]

If you are determined to change the oil around 4500 miles (while you are on vacation!), any oil that meets the required spec will be fine. I suggest you trust the oil life monitor and use M1 EP (rated up to 15,000 miles) in the heaviest grade allowed, with a premium oil filter, this combo will easily go the distance... that is, whatever distance your OLM says

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations while in the warranty period!

 

[DoubleNickels]

Originally Posted by DGXR
use M1 EP (rated up to 15,000 miles) in the heaviest grade allowed


Some believe that motor oil thickens as it heats, whereby reaching that higher viscosity as your engine heats up. If your motor was engineered for low viscosity oil, a thicker grade oil may not flow as well, leaving parts of the engine unprotected.

Your specific engine may be damaged by a heavier oil.


Understand your motor and it's specified requirements.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Some believe that motor oil thickens as it heats, whereby reaching that higher viscosity as your engine heats up. If your motor was engineered for low viscosity oil, a thicker grade oil may not flow as well, leaving parts of the engine unprotected.

Who would think that any fluid thickens as the temperature is increased?

You can't change the laws of physics, man.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
After a little reading, you will find that a select collective worships at the Temple of Fram. Those things change over time. Once upon a time, Fram wasn't worth the $3.99 it sold for. Then there's the volunteer brigade of Mobil 1 publicist. At least the Amsoil pushers got paid. No different than Redline being located in my area, and their reps were at every auto related event, making recommendations.

Actually what you will find is that there are a couple of individuals that post actual fact-based information about certain filter brands, and then there are the repeat trolls under various user names that post nothing in return except constant misinformation and useless opinion. That is what you will find.

Although I see the list recently got pared down a bit, so that might explain things.