Originally Posted by jongies3
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Who makes the Thickest 5W-20
- Thread starter kstanf150
- Start date
- Status
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Looking for a thick 5W-20 oil
My son has a 2008 Mustang 4.6L with some cold start ticking
He's been running Penn Plat HM
Cold start-ticking could be the oil filter. Change brands and be sure to include the red silicone ADBV.
Looking for a thick 5W-20 oil
My son has a 2008 Mustang 4.6L with some cold start ticking
He's been running Penn Plat HM
Cold start-ticking could be the oil filter. Change brands and be sure to include the red silicone ADBV.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
I've told him to just run a 5W-30 and try it
But he's bought into the rule of only running
What Ford recommends. ...³
But I agree with you 5W-30 penn plat is a great choice for a thin 30wt
Does he know that the 4.6 was originally specified for 5w-30? That might be the way to get him to go thicker.
I've told him to just run a 5W-30 and try it
But he's bought into the rule of only running
What Ford recommends. ...³
But I agree with you 5W-30 penn plat is a great choice for a thin 30wt
Does he know that the 4.6 was originally specified for 5w-30? That might be the way to get him to go thicker.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by jongies3
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Nope. I did it on my 2001 Bulliitt. It ran like it was in a mud bog. Terrible.
5W20. ONLY
Run a different brand. Had noise on my ford truck when I went away from the factory filter. Only the FOMOCO filter the car ran well.
And It wasnt a Motorcraft - looked like a Champ. Dont. know why.
Originally Posted by jongies3
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Nope. I did it on my 2001 Bulliitt. It ran like it was in a mud bog. Terrible.
5W20. ONLY
Run a different brand. Had noise on my ford truck when I went away from the factory filter. Only the FOMOCO filter the car ran well.
And It wasnt a Motorcraft - looked like a Champ. Dont. know why.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by LotI
Already been asked long ago. Castrol Magnatec at 9.1 cSt, 2.7HTHS
He's better off running a 5w-30 around 3.0 HTHS like most of the off the shelf oils.
Good to know about the Magnatec. Might give that a whirl next winter.
Already been asked long ago. Castrol Magnatec at 9.1 cSt, 2.7HTHS
He's better off running a 5w-30 around 3.0 HTHS like most of the off the shelf oils.
Good to know about the Magnatec. Might give that a whirl next winter.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Brojo
Originally Posted by LotI
Already been asked long ago. Castrol Magnatec at 9.1 cSt, 2.7HTHS
He's better off running a 5w-30 around 3.0 HTHS like most of the off the shelf oils.
Good to know about the Magnatec. Might give that a whirl next winter.
When were those specs published?
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/FE1F5064944AD75180258297004659CC/$File/BPXE-9R7F67.pdf
Originally Posted by LotI
Already been asked long ago. Castrol Magnatec at 9.1 cSt, 2.7HTHS
He's better off running a 5w-30 around 3.0 HTHS like most of the off the shelf oils.
Good to know about the Magnatec. Might give that a whirl next winter.
When were those specs published?
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/FE1F5064944AD75180258297004659CC/$File/BPXE-9R7F67.pdf
Originally Posted by OnTheRocks
There are mechanical reasons which cannot be addressed by using thicker oil.
Take a look at the top two oil additives recommended at https://carpassionate.com/best-oil-additives-for-lifter-noise/
And I think Napa Autoparts has the LiquiMoly product; walmart has the Rislone. Or Amazon has them all (?).
An old thread on the "sticky, slimy" Polymer Ester product which might work:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4707916/Hy-Per_lube_oil_additive
From an old thread, the Rislone additive:
Originally Posted by AMC
My friend's 02 Tahoe has 267,000 miles and ticks badly. I added the Rislone concentrate last time we changed the oil and the tick is now gone. The tick usually comes from sludge in the oil from poor maintenance. .... Rislone, MMO and Valve medic have worked well in the past if you do still have some ticking.
There are mechanical reasons which cannot be addressed by using thicker oil.
Take a look at the top two oil additives recommended at https://carpassionate.com/best-oil-additives-for-lifter-noise/
And I think Napa Autoparts has the LiquiMoly product; walmart has the Rislone. Or Amazon has them all (?).
An old thread on the "sticky, slimy" Polymer Ester product which might work:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4707916/Hy-Per_lube_oil_additive
From an old thread, the Rislone additive:
Originally Posted by AMC
My friend's 02 Tahoe has 267,000 miles and ticks badly. I added the Rislone concentrate last time we changed the oil and the tick is now gone. The tick usually comes from sludge in the oil from poor maintenance. .... Rislone, MMO and Valve medic have worked well in the past if you do still have some ticking.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by jongies3
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Nope. I did it on my 2001 Bulliitt. It ran like it was in a mud bog. Terrible.
5W20. ONLY
Run a different brand. Had noise on my ford truck when I went away from the factory filter. Only the FOMOCO filter the car ran well.
And It wasnt a Motorcraft - looked like a Champ. Dont. know why.
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by jongies3
Just run 5W-30 and forget about it, car will never know the difference!
Good idea.
Nope. I did it on my 2001 Bulliitt. It ran like it was in a mud bog. Terrible.
5W20. ONLY
Run a different brand. Had noise on my ford truck when I went away from the factory filter. Only the FOMOCO filter the car ran well.
And It wasnt a Motorcraft - looked like a Champ. Dont. know why.
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
Last edited:
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted by talest
Problem is, that 5W-30 turns into a 5W-20 almost guaranteed. And that is why you can just skip it and run 5W-20. Shear
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
Problem is, that 5W-30 turns into a 5W-20 almost guaranteed. And that is why you can just skip it and run 5W-20. Shear
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by talest
Problem is, that 5W-30 turns into a 5W-20 almost guaranteed. And that is why you can just skip it and run 5W-20. Shear
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
Yes and very likely why some car manufacturers back specked their cars to 5w-30.
Originally Posted by talest
Problem is, that 5W-30 turns into a 5W-20 almost guaranteed. And that is why you can just skip it and run 5W-20. Shear
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
Yes and very likely why some car manufacturers back specked their cars to 5w-30.
Originally Posted by Patman
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
I can't undersant talest's logic. Sure a 5w30 or 0w30 might get permanent shear at some point, usually way later toward the end of the oil change interval anyway.
It depends on the application, the conditions which produce more mechanical shear, shredding of the VII chemicals, with some oxidation breakdown over time. The Honda S2000 high-RPM engine comes to mind as something that shears a lot of oils. New engines with freshly machined surfaces are responsible for more shear in my estimation.
What is seen most of the time is any multi-visc oil that has VII will gradually get permanent shear ramping in, not all of a sudden of course, over the first 3,000 miles, and then oxidation of the oil itself will gradually raise KV100 back up.
I think I've seen Mobil's viscosity dip in engine oil UOAs. See graph below. Not a big dip usually. (Of course fuel dilution can really make visc dip down, but that's another effect not everybody has either.)
Notice oxidation effects can begin at some point, raising hot kv100 viscosity over time.
![[Linked Image]](https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/mobil-advantage/mobil-1-performance/mobil-1-annual-protection-pop/mobil-1-annual-protection-oil-breakdown.jpg "[Linked Image]")
You're forgetting the fact that the 5w30 will have a higher HTHS of around 3.0 vs 2.7 for the 5w20, and even when it thins out a bit it'll still have a stronger HTHS than 5w20.
I can't undersant talest's logic. Sure a 5w30 or 0w30 might get permanent shear at some point, usually way later toward the end of the oil change interval anyway.
It depends on the application, the conditions which produce more mechanical shear, shredding of the VII chemicals, with some oxidation breakdown over time. The Honda S2000 high-RPM engine comes to mind as something that shears a lot of oils. New engines with freshly machined surfaces are responsible for more shear in my estimation.
What is seen most of the time is any multi-visc oil that has VII will gradually get permanent shear ramping in, not all of a sudden of course, over the first 3,000 miles, and then oxidation of the oil itself will gradually raise KV100 back up.
I think I've seen Mobil's viscosity dip in engine oil UOAs. See graph below. Not a big dip usually. (Of course fuel dilution can really make visc dip down, but that's another effect not everybody has either.)
Notice oxidation effects can begin at some point, raising hot kv100 viscosity over time.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
Only Caveat? The car only had about 1200 miles on it.
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
Only Caveat? The car only had about 1200 miles on it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
... Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
You are the guy bench racing ... did you actually measure anything, on a dyno or a drag strip ? No ? Thought so ...
Do you understand how small the difference is in viscosity at operating temps between a 20 grade and a 30 grade ? TINY.
You felt what you wanted to feel, because you found out the " wrong ... " oil was used.
My example ... I put in M1 15w50 a couple of weeks before a planned track session in the middle of summer, in a car spec'ing 5w30. A small, high revving, low torque Honda VTEC 4 cylinder. Result ? The engine was smooth and very quiet, and MAYBE, if I really paid attention, the engine was ever so SLIGHTLY slower to rev until the oil got hot. At operating temps, you couldn't tell the difference.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
... Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
You are the guy bench racing ... did you actually measure anything, on a dyno or a drag strip ? No ? Thought so ...
Do you understand how small the difference is in viscosity at operating temps between a 20 grade and a 30 grade ? TINY.
You felt what you wanted to feel, because you found out the " wrong ... " oil was used.
My example ... I put in M1 15w50 a couple of weeks before a planned track session in the middle of summer, in a car spec'ing 5w30. A small, high revving, low torque Honda VTEC 4 cylinder. Result ? The engine was smooth and very quiet, and MAYBE, if I really paid attention, the engine was ever so SLIGHTLY slower to rev until the oil got hot. At operating temps, you couldn't tell the difference.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
Only Caveat? The car only had about 1200 miles on it.
In this case? Yes. We ran everything from 5w-20 to 0w-40 in a similar vintage Mustang GT and the car was the exact same on all the oils. There isn't a snowball's chance in [censored] that a couple cSt difference in operating viscosity in an engine that originally spec'd 5w-30 in the first place, caused ANY noticeable difference in performance.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Only Champs I see In stores don't have the silicone ADBV. Also, moving to a 5w30 will NOT create a terrible mug bog situation with a high performance engine
Any more BS?..... C'mon!
.
So actual experience is BS? Did you have a 2001 Bullitt and did you go to the Lincoln/Mercury dealer and did they install 5w30 because they didn't have 5w20? Did the car accelerate very sluggishly afterward?
I did. that's my REAL WORLD experience and I'm sticking to it. Enough bench racing.
Only Caveat? The car only had about 1200 miles on it.
In this case? Yes. We ran everything from 5w-20 to 0w-40 in a similar vintage Mustang GT and the car was the exact same on all the oils. There isn't a snowball's chance in [censored] that a couple cSt difference in operating viscosity in an engine that originally spec'd 5w-30 in the first place, caused ANY noticeable difference in performance.
Kstanf150,
Look what you started.
Look what you started.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Kstanf150,
Look what you started.
One simple question is all I ask ...³...³...³
Oil guys are a competitive bunch !!!
I appreciate all the info ðŸ‘
We here at BITOG are worse than crack addicts
Originally Posted by DoubleNickels
Kstanf150,
Look what you started.
One simple question is all I ask ...³...³...³
Oil guys are a competitive bunch !!!
I appreciate all the info ðŸ‘
We here at BITOG are worse than crack addicts
- Status
