Originally Posted by Rohan
Spec factory is 13-14 ft pound I wonder if this is with anti-seize?
W/o anti seize I can torque them to 18 ft pound.
Someone on Toyota forum told me to use anti seize for less prone to seizing with it than without. Then torque them to 12-12.5 ft pound.
Now I'm just getting more confuse.
Stop!
Set the torque wrench on the work bench, and step back away from it.
Take a deep breath...take another...and one more.
Now, if you have identified a problem with how the vehicle is operating, you can certainly try to fix that problem, but it sounds like you are going about it all wrong from what I am reading.
First, what is the problem you want to resolve?
It sounds like the engine has developed a rough idle since you replaced the spark plugs. If that is the case, there are some details missing:
- why did you replace the spark plugs in the first place?
- if the engine was not idling rough before the spark plug change but it is now, any changes you made are possible culprits. Have you replaced or adjusted any other parts on the engine besides the plugs? Air filter? PCV valve?
What about gasoline, are you running the same gasoline or have you filled up a few times since changing the plugs?
- a rough idle could be due to an intermittent miss. Have you checked the computer for any stored DTCs which might provide more information on what's going on? If so, which codes did you find?
It is a good thing to pay attention to the details of any maintenance task, e.g. the torque specs for the part being installed. However, your continued focus and subsequent changes to the spark plugs' torque in the cylinder heads (not to mention whether or not to use anti-seize) is a waste of time and effort right now. Identify the problem you want to fix; figure out how to diagnose that problem's most likely causes, and then start at the top of the list with each case, ruling it out as you go. Eventually you will be left the true cause, and then you will know how best to proceed to resolve it.
Keeping the amount of changes to a minimum while diagnosing the problem is key here. Every time you go back and pull the coils off to tighten/loosen/tighten the plugs, you are adding more uncertainty to the equation and making it harder to ID the true culprit.
Honestly, at this point, it might be better to start over from scratch - reinstall the plugs you pulled out the first time, and see if the rough idle disappears. I suspect that it won't though, and if it does not, you can rule out the spark plugs as the culprit altogether I think. Look elsewhere like air intake system, CCV system, exhaust (and intake) leaks, etc.
Do you have a tuner or other such device that can connect to the car and output PIDs so you can see what's going on in real time? That would be the quickest way to identify the list of probable suspects I believe, but not everyone has the hardware to do that, so some extra tool investment may be in order....
You have not provided enough details yet for anyone to be able to realistically help you troubleshoot this problem. As such, the best you can hope for is wild guesses and blind luck. That's a tough way to go about fixing a car; I would urge switching to a more efficient approach to the issue.
Nuke
