Equinox 2.4L Oil change & questions.

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Im changing the wifes car oil today and I got curious and looking at the sds on the acdelco and the mobil1 ep im going to be filling with. The oils are not similar at all. What are these chemicals, oil or additives ive never heard of. Which is more beneficial or better than the other? Both dexos1g2 5w30. Thanks guys. I dont know if anyone has made a spread for the names to make them easier to understand by the less knowledgable audience.

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First off, be aware that an MSDS is written to inform shippers, handlers and fire fighters of the hazardous materials in a product. They are not intended as a comprehensive list to reverse-engineer anything, especially motor oils. As someone who used to write them for a living also be aware that you never, ever disclose trade secrets in them. In fact if you can write them in a way that is factually correct (remembering the purpose of the MSDS) but deceptive as to the functional composition then all the better.

You can determine certain overall clues to the composition but the MSDS is a markedly poor source for determining which oil is better than another.
 
Google the names, they are generally components of the base oil in each product but does not and will not ever show the complete formulation. Sometime you can figure out whether they are mineral or true synthetic, but more often unreliable. Both oil brands are mineral oils that have been refined and hydrotreated. I have been using AC Delco Dexos 1 Gen 2 API SN in my 2012 Equinox 2.4l after their warranty work. So far it has not been holding up to the GM's Gas Direct Injection ECOTEC engines and fuel contamination, and quickly shears back to 20w oil. Same for Mobil 1 EP. I am now using Amsoil Signature Series, 100% synthetic for their high TBN numbers and extended OCI's.
 
Which ever oil you choose, I would recommend regular oil analysis and oil level checks. Fuel dilution and oil burning is a big problem, along with PCV system clogging/rear seal failures, and timing chains. If you are not currently, join www.equinoxforum.net to keep ahead of potential problems and learn about extended warranties for this car..
 
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
Which ever oil you choose, I would recommend regular oil analysis and oil level checks. Fuel dilution and oil burning is a big problem, along with PCV system clogging/rear seal failures, and timing chains. If you are not currently, join www.equinoxforum.net to keep ahead of potential problems and learn about extended warranties for this car..

Thanks bud.
 
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
Google the names, they are generally components of the base oil in each product but does not and will not ever show the complete formulation. Sometime you can figure out whether they are mineral or true synthetic, but more often unreliable. Both oil brands are mineral oils that have been refined and hydrotreated. I have been using AC Delco Dexos 1 Gen 2 API SN in my 2012 Equinox 2.4l after their warranty work. So far it has not been holding up to the GM's Gas Direct Injection ECOTEC engines and fuel contamination, and quickly shears back to 20w oil. Same for Mobil 1 EP. I am now using Amsoil Signature Series, 100% synthetic for their high TBN numbers and extended OCI's.

So it didn't shear, but diluted out of grade? That would be a problem independent of the brand.
 
"First off, be aware that an MSDS is written to inform shippers, handlers and fire fighters of the hazardous materials in a product."

^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I had a 2012 ' Nox. Wife did LOTS of short trips. The oil would come out looking like coffee and smell like gas after 2200-2500 miles in 4 months or so. So I started changing ever 2K miles/3 months. I would change the oil right before going on trips (800 to 1200 miles) and the oil would stay almost clear on the dipstick /no smell of gas, and it didn't use any oil. But get home and within a week or so....black on the dipstick/smelled like gas. GDI is not a good system to me. If those little engines had port injection I would probably still have it.
 
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
As a suggestion look for a ACEA A5 or better 5w30?


To add to this:

ACEA A5 is recommended by manufacturers such as Hyundai, Kia, and other GDI Engine Manufactorers.
 
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
ACEA A5 is recommended by manufacturers such as Hyundai, Kia, and other GDI Engine Manufactorers.

It'll also be found on several name brand dexos1 5w-30 options from Pennzoil, Mobil, and Castrol, so it's fairly easy to get these days.
 
So I just changed the oil, out came 3.5 quarts of black water. Doesnt smell of fuel to much which is suprising. I checked the oil for the first time yesterday in her car which I seen it was low, but i didnt know it was that low.... In went 5 quarts of Mobil1 ep 5w30. Runs fine and definitely feel confident now to say the least. The oil filter surprised me, I thought it was going to be a falling apart acdelco brand pos. Dont see any shiny bits, ill let it drain for a while. Sending in a sample to see what they say about the condition. She usually goes 7500 per oci or 20% oil life indecator, we are at 5kish at the moment which makes me think we have been running it almost dry although the oil light has never come on. I will keep it changed at 5k and check frequently. I feel ashamed ive let her drive it in this condition and having trusted the dealership to keep it running and well maintained was a big mistake that wont happen again. Now on to spark plugs. Super super tight, Im afraid to break them off. Letting it cool down for a few hours and try again.

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What is frustrating about many Safety Data Sheets is that they are inconsistent. This example shows 2 sheets, each showing 2 components. Both oils have ZDDP but only one lists it.
We know they are supposed to list things that are "hazardous" chemicals, yet why are some missing that we know are there?
Polyolefin polyamine succinimide is a dispersant, no biggie. In fact, I would think both oils have that one, not sure though, since there are other dispersants.

Still, there are clues that pop up on Safety Data Sheets, just an incomplete picture at times.

Anyway, the 1-Decene Homopolymer Hydrogenated is the well known PAO base oil, an expensive premium component which helps Mobil1 EP be superior to AC-Delco cheaper oil. ....
The AC-Delco's "Severely Hydrotreated Heavy" ... is just GroupIII base oil, a cheaper kind of synthetic oil.
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
Both oil brands are mineral oils that have been refined and hydrotreated.
Not true. Both are in the category of 100% Full Synthetic. Mobil1 EP has about 1/3 PAO and 2/3 GroupIII base oil components, something like that. AC-Delco has no PAO, a cheaper brew that oxidizes more easily and has worse low temperature properties too.
Often times you'll see the phrase "Fischer-Tropsch" on a base oil component, which indicates its the better GroupIII+ Gas-To-Liquid (like Pennzoil's PurePlus).
 
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
So I just changed the oil, out came 3.5 quarts of black water.
The oil pickup is so low in the sump, I doubt any problem with slightly low oil, as it was picking it up. Still, I would keep the level between the add and full lines if possible to help dilute contaminants better.
Originally Posted by GaryPoe
The oil filter surprised me, I thought it was going to be a falling apart acdelco brand pos..
I'm surprised GM is contracting with Hengst, a good German filter company. Cartridge oil filters usually hold together, and most tears & holes seen are when somebody cuts open a canister, usually Purolators & Motorcraft junk, sometimes AC-Delco canisters as well.
 
Thanks oil_film_movies. I should probobly write that down and keep track of this stuff..
Plugs are changed and car is running well. Found oil on the plug threads on the driver side plug. Not sure about this one. Valve cover leak? Will look into it farther.
In the mean time, Im going to get a game plan for changing the rear diff and transfer case oils. I wish i owned a car lift...
 
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