I want to install snap together vinyl floor planking on a concrete slab. Wouldn't I get a better job where I wouldn't see the cuts at the ends if I removed all the baseboard moulding? This way I would not have to be to concerned about being so precise with my end cuts as they would be covered by the moulding. Also it seems no matter how careful and concerned I am with my cuts, there are going to be some cuts you will still see a space between the end and the moulding if the moulding is not removed.
Remove baseboard moulding for floor planking?
- Thread starter JLawrence08648
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Yes, you have the right idea. Additionally if there is any expansion / contraction of the new flooring, having the end cuts hidden by the baseboard keeps any gaps from showing. A little work ahead of the project means a very nice look forever afterwards.
Yank the baseboard or install quarter round after. You need to have somewhat ornate baseboard for quarter round to not look out of place.
It sucks that you had to learn that the hard way, but you will probably be able to re use those pieces you cut too short depending on how far along you are.
Make sure you cut the top edge of the baseboard with a knife so you don't tear the paint off the wall when you pull the baseboard.
It sucks that you had to learn that the hard way, but you will probably be able to re use those pieces you cut too short depending on how far along you are.
Make sure you cut the top edge of the baseboard with a knife so you don't tear the paint off the wall when you pull the baseboard.
Of course, that's why it's there. I wouldn't expect much expansion and contraction compared to wood, but you're always better off a couple millimeters too short than too long.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I have done a bunch of laminate and always remove the baseboard. Makes it easy and hides the gap required by luxury vinyl plank and laminate type floors.
Yes, baseboard off then reinstalled above the new flooring.
I just did our downstairs. I used Lowes smartcore ultra blue ridge pine color.
It is 100% waterproof, does not expand or contract with humidity, instructions have no mention of keeping a gap between floor edge and walls, like they do with other kinds of flooring.
I removed all base boards.
One trick in hallways and doorways, cut the piece so you know it will fit, then slide the piece under the floating floor, and bring it up into position around the doorway and lock it in. The doorway side molding, I did not wish to remove and when your finishing the last row, there is no way you can clear it any other way.
And if you have trouble getting pieces together, you can somewhat warp it to start it fitting into the slot, and on long rows, if you get the end going in then keep on tapping it down the entire plank and it will slip together. I had several small cut offs I locked into planks I was tapping to fit, and of course the flat black bar. I used a 3 lb sledge hammer to whack things together. You will know your fully together, when it is fully flat and tight, no light colored seam showing on plank edges.
I like it a lot, it is very flexible, so it conforms to the floor. It has texture ridges in the surface.
One thing, be careful to make sure edges are locked tight. I had to fix an area because I had not locked planks together all the way.
That was not fun pulling out flooring pieces.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SMARTCORE-...-Locking-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring/1000196679
It is 100% waterproof, does not expand or contract with humidity, instructions have no mention of keeping a gap between floor edge and walls, like they do with other kinds of flooring.
I removed all base boards.
One trick in hallways and doorways, cut the piece so you know it will fit, then slide the piece under the floating floor, and bring it up into position around the doorway and lock it in. The doorway side molding, I did not wish to remove and when your finishing the last row, there is no way you can clear it any other way.
And if you have trouble getting pieces together, you can somewhat warp it to start it fitting into the slot, and on long rows, if you get the end going in then keep on tapping it down the entire plank and it will slip together. I had several small cut offs I locked into planks I was tapping to fit, and of course the flat black bar. I used a 3 lb sledge hammer to whack things together. You will know your fully together, when it is fully flat and tight, no light colored seam showing on plank edges.
I like it a lot, it is very flexible, so it conforms to the floor. It has texture ridges in the surface.
One thing, be careful to make sure edges are locked tight. I had to fix an area because I had not locked planks together all the way.
That was not fun pulling out flooring pieces.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SMARTCORE-...-Locking-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring/1000196679
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