4L80E build

[P10crew]

Corrected an issue. Now here's what I have. With the (starting from bottom of stack up) bearing, sonnax hub, .061 thrust and at the stator thrust I have the thinnest selective (black plastic) .0575 and the pump is lacking .041 from mating to the case gasket. So in theory to get to where I need to be with this selective I need to take the .041 and .0035 off of one of these locations

Correct?
Previous thrust measurements are moot . Found that the big bushing in the new overrun housing was too proud and was interfering with

That step. I'm going to restack the stock stuff back in it just for a comparative base.

 

[P10crew]

Now with the stock .063 washer, stock hub, .061 washer and .0575 selective I have .030 front end play.
Been at this for 11 hrs and am about half convinced that this whole stack is too high.
Heading to the neighborhood dive for â˜ï¸Bloodie and rest my brain!

 

[P10crew]

Add to post 591
I would need to take off .041 + .0035 + .004

 

[P10crew]

Made a slick little fixture to cut the forward hubs.

Fast set up and runout is non detectable.
I called Sonnax this morning about the stack up height being overly tall when using this hub and bearing. They are aware of the problem and an engineer is on it now. They had me send all of my height measurement pics. They just called me back to say they don't want me to cut the hub any more than 20 thou. They are looking at thinner bearings and 34232 washer. Gonna hear something by the end of the day or first thing in the am.
Just gotta love a company that takes care of things.
Anyone got a stash of AXOD bearings???

 

[clinebarger]

Green Sales Company in Cincinnati, Ohio was the last place I knew of that had them, There may very well be some sitting on a shelf in a Ford dealership somewhere......

Member bdcardinal is a Ford part specialist.....Maybe he knows where to find one? E6DZ-7F404-A is the part# if you need it.

 

[P10crew]

CLine do you know if the axod was .140 thick?

 

[clinebarger]

IIRC.....It's closer to .150". As I machine factory hubs on a case by case basis, I never really had a reason to record the nominal thickness.

 

[P10crew]

Ok

 

[P10crew]

I gave up completely on trying to make the Sonnax extreme fwd hub work in an 80E. One could definitely make it work but you gotta butcher the S out of the front hard parts.
I reverted to the ole CLinebarger tried and true plan of rollerizing the fwd hub. Just almost exactly as CLine has been laying out for many years now... like clock work! On this unit I had to gut the complete stack to check/ set fwd hub - direct end play. Cut .003 off the face of the fwd hub snout and got .0075 end play.
Stacked it all back up to set / adjust front end play. Only had to take off .047" from the rear face of the fwd hub to get the prescribed .002-.005 greater than rear end play. Rear is .004
This one is .009 total front end play.
Now it's front stack final assembly and move on to the pump mods.
Thanks CLinbarger!!!! I appreciate your help and direction man! Like big time

 

[P10crew]

 

[P10crew]

That right there is the whiskey getter !

 

[P10crew]

CLine ... some things to run by you for approval please.
Over run clutch
Clutch clearance- ATRA calls out .035-.095 I have ,035
A little concerned about that tight.
4th clutch
Clutch clearance- ATRA calls out .040-.100 I have .051
Finishished the stack up too the top with no issues other than a little bit of a learning pause to dial in on how to size the seal rings. Ruined the first one then it went like butta! (Thanks for the practice rings!) saved my A.

Made 2 resizing tools that worked awesome. I fiddled around for a little bit to get the 4th piston installed. It's a 2 minute deal with 4 hands and a lip wizard (Thanks for hooking me up) my BABE loves it when I ask for 6 min of help and the plan falls together. She's a motor head too. Lol
Closely inspected all of the pump bores and parts and here is what's in it.

I can easily Blanchard grind the overrun pressure plate if to think I should. Opinions please

 

[P10crew]

Also is there any tech tips out there for going through the valve body. Things to look for etc.
All of the mods are complete as far as the ck instruction except drilling the plate. Can you post one last time of plate hole size recommendations now that the stack is done. Thanks!

 

[clinebarger]

The Overrun has 3 friction plates....So .035" is just fine! They are small frictions so they don't cause much drag.
The 4th Clutch at .050" is also good! They're huge & a little over .010" per friction is ideal.

*Pull the 2 "Captured" checkball assemblies & replace the O-rings.
*Pull the Replace the Actuator Feed Limit Filter at the end of the Manual Valve Bore. Be careful NOT to crack the the end of the filter upon installation!! (Pull the Shift Solenoid next to the Filter end-plug as the hold down bracket slightly interferes with plug removal!
*There should be a shift valve spring included in the seal kit....Read the instructions provided for install.
*Use a liberal amount of assembly lube on the Sonnax TCC Regulator Valve scarf-cut seal after sizing it well with heat from your fingertips. Use the LIGHT spring.
*The TransGo AFL repair is pretty straight forward.....Just get the cutter guide oriented correctly, (Cutter/Reamer flutes slip inside it), Go slow with your drill on low speed with some ATF or Cutting oil.
*Replace the the Thimble Filter in the valve body that sits under the plate.
*Replace the Thimble Filter in the case as well.
*I assume your replacing the Shift Solenoids, TCC Solenoid, EPC Solenoid, & Pressure Switch Assembly?

2nd Clutch..... .086"
3rd Clutch..... .093"
4th Clutch..... .101"

 

[P10crew]

Excellent
Thanks!

 

[P10crew]

I just couldn't force myself to put a vise grip on such a fine ground guide. Now on to the issues. This unit had some sort of a transgo kit in it

Pretty sure those 2 holes were made for this relief of sorts. Can I tap and plug this hole? Now I'm not sure what all transgo parts would be in here and which ones need to be replaced with stock parts and what mods would have been done to this. I did notice that the hd2 plate is stamped hd2 with this one stamped 48 would this be an old hd2 version?

 

[P10crew]

Comparing my parts to this drawing the only things I found different are in mine there is a spring between 316 & 317 and there appears to be an oring on 317 in the drawing mine has no oring.

And on mine 331 is shaped different than the drawing and the end plug is oringed.

Other than that the parts look simular. Also 316 is machined different than the drawing.

 

[P10crew]

I found an old 80e instructional video on the transgo site but not totally conclusive of what the last guy did. I don't see much for stock internal valve body parts in the wit catalog. A good share of these parts will be replaced by using the sonnax parts specified earlier and 34200-52 and 34200-47k. After watching the video I am concerned about what spring is in pump #238 and the balance of what is in the VB that will not be Sonnax.
Any ideas on who has stock VB parts?

 

[clinebarger]

Just plug the relief hole in the top of the Valve Body......Don't worry about the hole in the partition, It enters a void & won't cause issues.

The Accumulator Valve (331) looks like a stock piece to me! Most drawings are based on early model '91-'96 versions, So you will see some differences.
The O-ringed end plug & spring are TransGo parts. Picture provided below.
**I would either procure the TG Outer spring to go with the TG Inner spring OR install a stock spring!!! The 1-2 shift will be too firm with just the TG Inner spring!

Note the changes made to the Actuator Feed Limit Filter per the TG kit......You can reuse these pieces in your unit! The tapered plug could be stuck in there VERY well!!

I've used the TG Pressure Regulator Bumper Spring (238) with the Sonnax Line Booster Kit before with no line pressure anomalies in the past!

 

[P10crew]

Man you made that easy! I'll call TG tomorrow and try to get both blue springs. And an end plug oring