Brake: silver vs copper anti seize paste

[ST2008]

I'm planning to do some brake maintenance this week end. Now I'm looking for a video in youtube about the "best practice" for the front brake maintenance. I also did some searches in amazon about the brake lubricants. For now, I'm little bit confused. In fact, in some youtube video, they ask to use cooper anti-seize paste instead of the silver one for the front brake. But they didn't say why. As for the brake lubricant in amazon, they all stated that their lubricant is for the brake component, but they didn't say if we can use their lubricant for the slide pins.

So my main question is: What is wrong with the silver anti-seize paste? I ask this question, because I have a great quantity of silver one and I don't wish to buy another anti-seize paste if I can use the one I already have.

My second question is: is there any "all purpose" brake lubricant in the market that we can apply it in any front brake component?

thx

 

[Nyyt]

Just did my front brakes yesterday, used:

3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste - 8 oz. - Slide Pin lubricant

3M 08945 Copper Anti Seize Brake Lube - 9 fl. oz. - Lube for the brake pad

To answer you question on what is the difference of anti-seize - https://www.crcindustries.com/world-anti-seize/

An universal anti-seize, any could be used, just won't be ideal for every situation. I used the copper for it was the most recommended that fit my use case.

 

[BigCahuna]

This is timely. Just Saturday I was working on the brakes of my wife's Equinox's front brakes. I used the silver never seize about three month's ago to help out a sticky/ noisy situation. It worked beautiful for three month's then went back to making noise, which sounded really bad. This time I went to NAPA and bought caliper and hardware grease made for brakes. It came in a green tube and said it was synthetic grease. I cleaned up the parts where any part of the pads rubbed on the hardware. Again it sounds like a new cars brakes. I'm hoping this is the final time I have to do that job.,,,

 

[Snagglefoot]

Is this the paste you have?

 

[Hall]

The "silver" stuff you have is likely just silver in color but is either nickel or aluminum-based. Continue using it on metal contact points. You can watch (5) YouTube videos on brake changes and 3 won't use or mention any anti-seize or lube while the remaining 2 will recommend their own personal preference of material.

Do not use that same stuff on the slide pins though. Use something silicone-based like Syl-Glyde.

 

[ST2008]

Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Is this the paste you have?



Yes

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted by ST2008
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Is this the paste you have?



Yes


If you check the back i think it will mention it's a mixture of copper, aluminum and perhaps graphite. I use it on the bolts when reassembling but I think you want to follow BigCahuna's advice and get the hardware grease made for brakes and use it on the slide pins. I believe it's more waterproof. Perhaps a pro can chime in.

 

[Rand]

I use pastelub, on the contact points and sil-glyde on the slide pins

 

[JLawrence08648]

I use Never-Seize on everything.

 

[spk2000]

I used to work for Akebono a well known brake pad company and they never used anti seize of any kind. They recommend a moly grease if needed for brake components. I personally use the never seize on caliper bolts as I have had stuck ones that I nearly broke removing and prefer not to experience that again. If coating the back of brake pads make sure the grease is compatible with any shim material normally nitrile rubber. If it dissolves that then you will get more noise than not putting anything on it.

 

[atikovi]

Brakes can get pretty hot so don't use anti-seize, it can run when hot and contaminate brake pads. Use a specific lube for brakes. I prefer

which has ceramic for high temps along with silicone.

 

[Dave9]

Raybestos Silicone Paste aka DBL-2T. It is more viscous than "most" silicone greases. Don't be fooled by products that have "some" silicone in their petroleum base. That's just cheaper to make and inferior.

Right now it's as cheap as it gets on Amazon at $15 and change. I could see going for what the old timers used back when they didn't have access to this or when it cost 4X as much but at $15 it's a no brainer.

https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-DBL-2T-Brake-Lube-Brush/dp/B0015RCGRM

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Brakes can get pretty hot so don't use anti-seize, it can run when hot and contaminate brake pads. Use a specific lube for brakes.

I use Permatex aluminum anti-seize or 3M copper anti-seize. They are good for 1600ºF and 2000ºF. I think they'll be fine....

 

[kschachn]

That temperature rating doesn't refer to the hydrocarbon carrier for the metallic particles. That will run at a much lower temperature.

 

[supton]

I use the silver stuff on all bolts. I suspect there is something better but it's better than nothing.

On caliper slide pins I use Sil-Glyde.

On brake hardware, on pad ears and those areas, I use Honda M77 assembly paste (as recommended by The_Critic). I'll remove the stainless clip from the caliper bracket, clean all the rust off, and smear some onto the bracket, in hopes of slowing down rust. Then slide some on the stainless bit (forget what that is called!) and reassemble. Smear some on pad ears. I don't put any on the shims though, while I knows some do so as to avoid squeal I've just never had a problem with it. [Actually I have: I used to use some Sta-Lube brake grease, and I lathered up a set of brake shims with that, and was rewarded with a squeal. Luckily that stuff is all but water based so the squeal went away after a month or two. Lesson learned.]

Make sure to put some anti-seize on the mating surfaces between hub and rotor (or drum) so it will come apart later. It may be worthwhile on a new-to-you (or just plain new) car to remove the caliper brake and pull the rotor to do this. Also put some anti-seize onto the rotor to wheel mating surface too, and around center opening of the wheel--probably don't need it on the rotor to wheel but certainly do in that center opening where they like to stick. I don't put any on the wheel studs; if you want to have fun, you can read up on the arguments about whether to do that or not...

 

[rideahorse]

I have never had a wheel come loose in 55 years from using never seeze on wheel bolts. And I have done a lot of them. From 18 wheelers to farm equipment. Do what you want. When you have to fix a tire on a truck on the interstate you will wish you had it on the studs.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by supton
I use the silver stuff on all bolts.


ALL bolts? You should use a thread locker on caliper bracket bolts for example.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by supton
I use the silver stuff on all bolts.


ALL bolts? You should use a thread locker on caliper bracket bolts for example.

Yep, and nope.

For fun, I did a quick search, and found a BITOG thread on it, and it mentions that while one should defer to the FSM for any given vehicle, many do not make mention of nor require. Thus I feel perfectly fine.

I do R&R the pads every spring, and try to do likewise in the fall (but sometimes get lazy). The 17mm caliper bolt, I really should remove each time as it makes cleaning the bracket way easier! I can't think of when any of the four bolts didn't need gentle persuasion to remove, so they are holding torque without a problem.