02 Silverado 5.3L Pinion Seal-grey RTV application

[Gito]

Is it recommended to use some sort of sealant (grey) on the outside of the pinion seal and or on the spindle threads (gear threads) where the washer and nut compress?

Not sure if I should just clean all surfaces and install the pinion seal dry without adding anything.


Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[The_Eric]

A little RTV around the od of the seal is good and also some on the splines of the yoke.

 

[Gito]

I positioned the puller on the yoke and it took no force to remove it.
I did not have to use my air gun.

I turned the center large bolt to the puller inwards using my fingers and noticed that the yoke began to slide out.

Should I continue with the installation of the pinion seal or should I be concerned that the yoke came off without using much force?


Not sure if this is normal.

 

[mk378]

It is supposed to slide freely. That is how the bearing clearance is set up, by how far you tighten the nut, which then pushes the bearing cones together.

 

[Gito]

The pinion seal install was not easy. Took multiple hits around the seal to get it to finally set in. I used a PVC cut-out drain cover to bang the seal in place. I really thought I was going to deform the pinion seal. I did use a bit of grey sealant on the outside of the seal and as recommended, applied grey sealant on the yoke splines.

Reinstalled everything back and tightened the nut accoring to my aligned marks.

No leaks so far but will be checking throughout the day and report back.

Everyone's input really helped. Thanks!

 

[WyrTwister]

When I replaced the pinion seal on our 1991 Caprice , I used a BIG 3/4" drive socket as a seal driver .

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister
When I replaced the pinion seal on our 1991 Caprice , I used a BIG 3/4" drive socket as a seal driver .



At the time I couldn't find a socket that big.

 

[Gito]

UPDATE!


The pinion seal that I installed 30,000 miles ago began to leak fluid again. Not sure why.
I ordered a new seal and I'm installing it today.

I originally used a Genuine (GM) pinion seal. I ended up buying the same Genuine pinion seal.


Question?

Do I add RTV sealant to the outer surface of the pinion seal and the yoke splines?

If so, how much and which color or kind of sealant? Gasket maker?



Advice is greatly appreciated

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

The crush sleeve is most likely ruined. Take it to a shop for a proper replacement.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by Gito
UPDATE!


The pinion seal that I installed 30,000 miles ago began to leak fluid again. Not sure why.
I ordered a new seal and I'm installing it today.

I originally used a Genuine (GM) pinion seal. I ended up buying the same Genuine pinion seal.


Question?

Do I add RTV sealant to the outer surface of the pinion seal and the yoke splines?

If so, how much and which color or kind of sealant? Gasket maker?



Advice is greatly appreciated


I got a feeling you got some other issues. Bearing issue or your seal doesn't have a good smooth surface to seal against. The seal is likely to fail again.

 

[Gito]

The last time the seal went out was right after "flooring it" while driving on the freeway onramp trying to get onto the freeway. Just wanted to see of the truck still had some power.

A few weeks ago I did the same thing, I floored it and got the leak again.

Just replaced the seal. Will monitor and report back

 

[super20dan]

coincidence. -I floor my 99 all the time and still have orig seal. the early 5.3 is too much fun not to spare the horses

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted by super20dan
coincidence. -I floor my 99 all the time and still have orig seal. the early 5.3 is too much fun not to spare the horses


The only thing I could think of is that maybe I'm adding too much fluid into the differential.
I usually add fluid until it starts coming out of the fill point. I'm probably not adding fluid to the correct or required level.

I might be confusing my cars around but I know that one of them calls for the fluid level to be 10mm below the fill point.

Maybe over filling causes more pressure in the differential when flooring it? Don't know.

 

[clinebarger]

The Pinion Nut must be replaced anytime it's removed & I like to Loctite Red them for extra insurance. GM Corporate diffs are bad about the pinion nut backing off.

I apply Loctite Red to the OD of the seal, But RTV works also. I use Ultra Grey on the Yoke Splines.

 

[Lubener]

Maybe the vent is clogged causing pressure to build up inside.

 

[cronk]

I eould make sure the vent is open.
The sealing surface on tge pinion yoke may have a groove worn into it.

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted by clinebarger
The Pinion Nut must be replaced anytime it's removed & I like to Loctite Red them for extra insurance. GM Corporate diffs are bad about the pinion nut backing off.

I apply Loctite Red to the OD of the seal, But RTV works also. I use Ultra Grey on the Yoke Splines.



Pretty much just made alignment marks on the pinion nut to get it back on as close as possible to the previous position.

Not an accurate method so I'm thinking about getting a dial torque wrench so that I'm more prepared for the next time it fails.

Is a dial torque wrench with a "memory needle" the one I need?

What drive size and range is good for this job?

Have to find out how to properly use the wrench and what torque spec should be applied on the nut.



Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[clinebarger]

You must take & record the rotational torque before you loosen the pinion nut, Specs you find will be for new pinion bearings & crush sleeve. Values for used/run-in bearings are subjective at best.

As you've removed the nut in the past....The best advice is to tighten the nut 'til all the slack is gone, Then just a smidge to lightly preload the bearings. Even if I was to give a value.....You would need to remove the Calipers & Rotors.

If you're able to run the nut down 'til bearing slack is gone with no change in resistance.......Your Crush Sleeve didn't rebound & needs replacement.

 

[Gito]

Update

Just reached 3k miles on the new pinion seal and no leaks detected. So far so good.

Will provide another update in a few months.