95% sure terrible idea

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I currently have a Hyundai f5A51 transmission in my Hyundai that Is flaring from 2-3. I don't know a whole lot about these other than they use highly friction modified fluids. I've tinkered around with different fluids (flushing out all previous via cooler lines) w sp3, maxlife and Castrol mv import. I am ready to put a new transmission in it however I'm incredibly curious as to what would happen if I were to throw something like a type f in there. I have no regard for the trans operation afterwards but just a shot in the dark remedy. I am taking opinions as to the quality of that idea (even I think its awful but im curious) and if there are any other remedies I should try before most likely dumpstering this transmission.
 
I also have two other vehicles I can drive so taking one out of commission is not a horridly big deal.
 
What do you think the odds are that it completely grenades my transmission vs stop the slipping?
 
Can you drive around the slip? I drove a 95 accord with a bad 2-3 slip from 193,000 miles to 386,000.

I would be [censored] about wasting all that money on trans fluid.
 
Questions on this:
As I remember GM transmissions had fiber disc packs.
Ford transmissions had plain metal disc packs and needed the Type F fluid for the texture.

Is it smart to ask what kind of disc packs are in your Hyundai? dermapaint might be onto something.
 
I have a Honda Accord with a pretty bad flare 1-2 and a bad flare 2-3. Everyone says to use Honda atf or the transmission will be ruined. Honda uses a highly friction modified fluid. One day I decided I'm not going to believe the only use Honda atf story. I started to experiment with different atf. First it was amsoil which actually worked surprisingly good. Then I tried Castrol transmax import. This did not work as good as amsoil. Then I tried Dex 6 which I think worked better than the Castrol. I did alot of reading about transmission additives. I read about the seal swelling capabilities but it seemed if you left the additive In it would eventually swell the seal to much and ruin the seals. I first tried lubegard red and it either had no effect or made the transmission worse. So I decided I would flush the trans with seafoam transtune. It says on the bottle not to leave it in to long I think for only 250 miles or something. When I poured it in the transmission immediately was so so much better. I left it in for the 250 miles and changed the fluid again and the transmission got worse again. At this point I decided if the transmission lived through all these different fluids I was going to really experiment. I currently have a mix of dexron 6, type f, and a bottle of seafoam in it. It has been using this fluid for 50,000 miles and the trans still doesn't shift perfect but it's much much better than it was and it has not gotten any worse. I say you should go for it. Unless a fluid has seal compatibility issues I don't see how it can immediately harm the transmission. You will be able to tell if the different fluid helped. Also my fluid is still pretty red atfer 50k even with the seafoam in it the whole time. By far the product that made the biggest difference was the seafoam transtune. It was an immediate fix.
 
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most newer transmissions are clutch to clutch. if the lower gear does not release in time, the transmission is in two gears at the same time, and it explodes. Often in a spectacular fashion.

I would not try it. Try lubeguard.

Rod
 
It's been many years since I used Lubeguard, but my memory tells me that the Red does not change frictional characteristics, but it might improve fluid longevity and maybe clean stuck mechanisms.

Have you done any diagnostics at all? Have you researched the many (15?) TSB's out on this transmission: TSB 08-AT-003 https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/hyundai-xg-350-35/transmission-sudden-downshift-5610/ and https://www.facebook.com/ATSGcompan...y-solid-topic-on-transm/788950187834594/

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Finally, my anecdotal experience. A few months after having my Caravan tranny rebuilt years ago for catastrophic breakdown, it started having flaring/slipping symptoms. The tranny shop rebuilt the tranny again with no improvement. Then, they acquired, rebuilt, and installed a second tranny with the same dismal results (no charge to me). This time, the shop owner attached a scan tool to observe live data and drove around with me for an hour to duplicate the "flaring". It turned out to be a $29 speed sensor that was intermittently relaying erroneous info to one of the computers, causing a flaring symptom. No codes were ever thrown.

A clear case of not seeing the forest for the trees (expression used of someone who is too involved in the details of a problem to look at the situation as a whole) ....the bane of my existence, but improving in my 60's, LOL.
 
I cocktail every ATF pumper I own inluding a 2013 Hyundai Elanda GT . Redline D6 with 2 Qt s of Redline low viscosity racing (type F) and 1 qt regular racing. I have the same setup in a towing Rav4 with zero issues. Same in my daughters old Civic that had a hint of slipping that this corrected 30,000 miles ago.
 
im thinking that I will pump a quart out and put a quart in at a time w some type f and see what happens
 
Originally Posted by HyundaiAbuser
im thinking that I will pump a quart out and put a quart in at a time w some type f and see what happens

Keep us updated
 
Originally Posted by HyundaiAbuser
im thinking that I will pump a quart out and put a quart in at a time w some type f and see what happens

That's what I was alluding to. I'd start off with about 10% Type-F and work my way up from there. It might not take much. The pumping out and tweaking the mix up [if needed] from there might be beneficial in slowly cleaning as well.
 
at this point with all the flushing the transmission is basically spotless. Fluid out is barely a tint darker than new atf. I currently have two quarts of type f and am going to start by pumping one out and pouring one in. I have not considered dextron 6 in reference to wyr. Is it a good thing to look at for this application?
 
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