Muffler pipe/flange: is it repairable ?

[ST2008]

Hi guys

I just changed the muffler from my beater (see my My initial thread). It took me almost 5 hrs for the job. Because the idiot who installed the exhaust system had spot welded the nuts to the flange.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ion-for-exhaust-bolts-with-spring#UNREAD

As for the old Muffler, the structure is still very solid. It seems the muffler is made of all SS, but I have no idea what type of SS is. The only problem is the flange and the pipe were ruptured. (pictures)

I don't have welding machine. But do you think, it's repairable?

I bought a cheap aftermarket muffler as replacement. I'm pretty sure I need to change it two or three years later. If I could repair the old one with a fraction of price, that will be great.

thx

 

[sdowney717]

Sure, a muffler shop can and does weld together all sorts of pipe arrangements, some that should not be welded but bolted, they tend to do that. Made for a lot more work when I had to replace a catalytic converter with attached pipe as they had removed the bolted junction and welded up some kind of contraption.

 

[Cujet]

Anything is repairable. That repair looks rather straightforward. However, the pipe looks rusty.

Many automotive exhaust systems are 409 stainless. Which is just barely good enough to hold up on salted roads.

I have a TIG welder in my shop and I use 308 rod on just about every "under the car" exhaust system. Sure, it's a mismatch in materials and not ideal, but it's very corrosion resistant. Using such rod on 409, 304 or aluminized pipe works well. As the weld is very corrosion resistant.

 

[Kestas]

You can check what you have with a magnet. 409 ss is magnetic; 300-series stainless is not.

 

[ST2008]

Originally Posted by Cujet
Anything is repairable. That repair looks rather straightforward. However, the pipe looks rusty.

Many automotive exhaust systems are 409 stainless. Which is just barely good enough to hold up on salted roads.

I have a TIG welder in my shop and I use 308 rod on just about every "under the car" exhaust system. Sure, it's a mismatch in materials and not ideal, but it's very corrosion resistant. Using such rod on 409, 304 or aluminized pipe works well. As the weld is very corrosion resistant.


Thx for the inputs.

The front pipe of the muffler is indeed look rusted. But the tail pipe and the muffler itself are almost spotless. I also hit the muffler with a hammer to find any weak spot and I found nothing. The muffler seems to be an oem. The only thing I regret was I didn't put any alignement mark on the flange and on the pipe while I was removing the old muffler. So If I decide to repair the muffler, I need to put it back to my beater in order to find out the exact location of the flange and the pipe.

 

[ST2008]

Originally Posted by Kestas
You can check what you have with a magnet. 409 ss is magnetic; 300-series stainless is not.


thx for the tip

Something bizarre. The front pipe and the muffler are magnetic. But the tail pipe and the flange are not.

 

[eljefino]

Yes, there's a hinged split flange that will take a couple bolts and will then pull it towards a similarly shaped bell mouthed doodad on your other pipe. Put a sintered iron gasket in there.

The alternative is to cut that bell off and use a slip fit adapter and clamp. If it's a true beater you won't care that it's no longer a factory set up.

 

[Trav]

Look here, they have all sorts of stuff you can put together. You can cut a couple of slits then use a band clamp on them then tack them, clamp or weld them.

https://www.bearriverconverters.store/

 

[DejaVue]

Originally Posted by eljefino

The alternative is to cut that bell off and use a slip fit adapter and clamp. If it's a true beater you won't care that it's no longer a factory set up.

You beat me to it.

A band clamp that wraps around and is tightened down with two bolts also works. It costs a bit more than a coupler but is more removable.

For extended areas, that accordion-style pipe in fixit kits can last a long time. The main drawback is the exhaust needs to be supported in the other areas since the flexy pipe area won't have the rididness of solid pipe.

 

[joegreen]

It's probably 409 stainless. Cujet says it looks Rusty but he is from Florida so everything looks Rusty to Southern folk. The pipe looks in great shape except for the end. I would go to the auto parts store and look at the exhaust section for ideas

 

[DuckRyder]

On my Civic the nuts are welded to the flange from the factory.

Bolts come out, nuts stay on flange.

But yeah that is repairable:

https://fxexhaust.com/pr/honda.html