When in doubt, get a UOA would be my recommendation. Money well spent imo.
Can M1 AFE 0W-30 handle a year OCI?
- Thread starter jongies3
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Linctex
I have run plain ol' Pennzoil "yellow bottle" (NON-synth) out to 15,000 miles in all weather types.
I think you'll be MORE than fine and you are worrying about (literally) absolutely nothing....
What documented proof do you have that running Pennzoil conventional for 15K OCIs will allow your engine to exceed 200K without inner engine repair?
Are you 1st and last owner of your vehicles?...... I doubt that! Heck, I'd like to see the inside of that engine after seven 15K OCIs.... @105K. I'd bet it would house sludge.
OK, I'll call you out.
It's got 189,000 on it right now.
Pics of the inside of the valve cover will be sometime soon.
Originally Posted by Linctex
I have run plain ol' Pennzoil "yellow bottle" (NON-synth) out to 15,000 miles in all weather types.
I think you'll be MORE than fine and you are worrying about (literally) absolutely nothing....
What documented proof do you have that running Pennzoil conventional for 15K OCIs will allow your engine to exceed 200K without inner engine repair?
Are you 1st and last owner of your vehicles?...... I doubt that! Heck, I'd like to see the inside of that engine after seven 15K OCIs.... @105K. I'd bet it would house sludge.
OK, I'll call you out.
It's got 189,000 on it right now.
Pics of the inside of the valve cover will be sometime soon.
Any synthetic can handle what you are describing, even store brand oils.
That Toyota is a port injected, normal aspiration vehicle that sounds like is driven "normal" (not a teenager ripping on it from every stop light or taking off road). Easy miles for an annual oil change.
I have retired my truck to an annual oil change since I got my motorcycle.
I was doing ~8,000 on the truck, doing an oil change every 6 months/5000miles, but the last 2 years I have driven 10,000 miles, and will be even less now that my wife has a new vehicle that we will travel in. I have only driven it 1000 miles in 6 months.
That Toyota is a port injected, normal aspiration vehicle that sounds like is driven "normal" (not a teenager ripping on it from every stop light or taking off road). Easy miles for an annual oil change.
I have retired my truck to an annual oil change since I got my motorcycle.
I was doing ~8,000 on the truck, doing an oil change every 6 months/5000miles, but the last 2 years I have driven 10,000 miles, and will be even less now that my wife has a new vehicle that we will travel in. I have only driven it 1000 miles in 6 months.
Originally Posted by jongies3
wanna know if it can handle a year in the sump no problem?
In your case, mileage will have nothing to do with the degradation of the oil and additive package. Your main concern will be condensation and oxidation. No way to really tell by the naked eye, how degraded your oil is. Even motor oil sold for extended oil change intervals make those claims based on the assumption that you are constantly driving the car. Not reasonable to expect oil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles, last 10 years, because you only drive 2,500 miles a year.
For a car which sits most of the time, like mine, everyone has a different strategy. My view is that at less than 5,000 miles a year, I will use the lowest cost oil which meets spec, and change it every year. I'm not spending more on oil which is being changed at low miles. Same with the filter. I'm not throwing away $XX on a filter.
But I get it. It's not about the money. Some people don't care about the cost. They want what is best for their cars. Even a Hyundai can be a $30K investment, and possibly the most expensive thing you own. If it makes you feel better, to buy the most expensive oil and filter combination, then you feel good that you did all that you can do. Even expensive boutique oil, left sitting in a car which isn't driven much, will degrade from condensation and oxidation.
wanna know if it can handle a year in the sump no problem?
In your case, mileage will have nothing to do with the degradation of the oil and additive package. Your main concern will be condensation and oxidation. No way to really tell by the naked eye, how degraded your oil is. Even motor oil sold for extended oil change intervals make those claims based on the assumption that you are constantly driving the car. Not reasonable to expect oil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles, last 10 years, because you only drive 2,500 miles a year.
For a car which sits most of the time, like mine, everyone has a different strategy. My view is that at less than 5,000 miles a year, I will use the lowest cost oil which meets spec, and change it every year. I'm not spending more on oil which is being changed at low miles. Same with the filter. I'm not throwing away $XX on a filter.
But I get it. It's not about the money. Some people don't care about the cost. They want what is best for their cars. Even a Hyundai can be a $30K investment, and possibly the most expensive thing you own. If it makes you feel better, to buy the most expensive oil and filter combination, then you feel good that you did all that you can do. Even expensive boutique oil, left sitting in a car which isn't driven much, will degrade from condensation and oxidation.
Originally Posted by OnTheRocks
Originally Posted by jongies3
wanna know if it can handle a year in the sump no problem?
In your case, mileage will have nothing to do with the degradation of the oil and additive package. Your main concern will be condensation and oxidation. No way to really tell by the naked eye, how degraded your oil is. Even motor oil sold for extended oil change intervals make those claims based on the assumption that you are constantly driving the car. Not reasonable to expect oil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles, last 10 years, because you only drive 2,500 miles a year.
For a car which sits most of the time, like mine, everyone has a different strategy. My view is that at less than 5,000 miles a year, I will use the lowest cost oil which meets spec, and change it every year. I'm not spending more on oil which is being changed at low miles. Same with the filter. I'm not throwing away $XX on a filter.
But I get it. It's not about the money. Some people don't care about the cost. They want what is best for their cars. Even a Hyundai can be a $30K investment, and possibly the most expensive thing you own. If it makes you feel better, to buy the most expensive oil and filter combination, then you feel good that you did all that you can do. Even expensive boutique oil, left sitting in a car which isn't driven much, will degrade from condensation and oxidation.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1295038
It take more than a year for this condensation and oxidation to negatively affect the oil.
Originally Posted by jongies3
wanna know if it can handle a year in the sump no problem?
In your case, mileage will have nothing to do with the degradation of the oil and additive package. Your main concern will be condensation and oxidation. No way to really tell by the naked eye, how degraded your oil is. Even motor oil sold for extended oil change intervals make those claims based on the assumption that you are constantly driving the car. Not reasonable to expect oil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles, last 10 years, because you only drive 2,500 miles a year.
For a car which sits most of the time, like mine, everyone has a different strategy. My view is that at less than 5,000 miles a year, I will use the lowest cost oil which meets spec, and change it every year. I'm not spending more on oil which is being changed at low miles. Same with the filter. I'm not throwing away $XX on a filter.
But I get it. It's not about the money. Some people don't care about the cost. They want what is best for their cars. Even a Hyundai can be a $30K investment, and possibly the most expensive thing you own. If it makes you feel better, to buy the most expensive oil and filter combination, then you feel good that you did all that you can do. Even expensive boutique oil, left sitting in a car which isn't driven much, will degrade from condensation and oxidation.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1295038
It take more than a year for this condensation and oxidation to negatively affect the oil.
Thanks for all the replies everyone! Will change it late summer or fall just before the weather gets nasty and shoot for a year! Got a UOA kit, probably get this batch of oil done as it has 6k on it now and likely be around 7k or 8K by then.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Stop with the 10-15K OCI expensive investment nonsense using conventional oil. Your engine deserves better treatment than that..... for the same price as what you paid for that inferior conventional.
I'm done with this. I cannot teach stupidity. It just never sinks-in.
I'm with Linctex on this, you are mad. And the first sentence in your quote doesn't even make sense.
I am doing a 10k oil change in my car at the present time, what is your point ?
Stop with the 10-15K OCI expensive investment nonsense using conventional oil. Your engine deserves better treatment than that..... for the same price as what you paid for that inferior conventional.
I'm done with this. I cannot teach stupidity. It just never sinks-in.
I'm with Linctex on this, you are mad. And the first sentence in your quote doesn't even make sense.
I am doing a 10k oil change in my car at the present time, what is your point ?
Originally Posted by jongies3
Thanks for all the replies everyone! Will change it late summer or fall just before the weather gets nasty and shoot for a year! Got a UOA kit, probably get this batch of oil done as it has 6k on it now and likely be around 7k or 8K by then.
You are good to go
Thanks for all the replies everyone! Will change it late summer or fall just before the weather gets nasty and shoot for a year! Got a UOA kit, probably get this batch of oil done as it has 6k on it now and likely be around 7k or 8K by then.
You are good to go
I have run Formula Shell and Peak conventional for 10k mile, 1year intervals in my last two cars without issue. I could look through the fill hole and see 2 rocker arms, a valve spring or two and a fair amount of the head casting and oil return holes. No sludge. No varnish. I'm sure any syn would handle 1 year and 15k or so without problems. As a longtime BITOG lurker, I would never have done so if a bajillion UOAs hadn't made appear doable. Flame suit on!
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