Another oil recommendation, 2.0 EcoBoost

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Keep doing what you're doing.
You could run Motorcraft semi/syn. It meets all the requirements.
Any oil out there that meets Ford's specs will do just fine. You or your EcoBoost won't know the difference.
 
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Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by dave1251
What does Ravenol do to make the engine last longer then the specified oil from Ford?
Not sure what you mean, since that Ravenol IS Ford spec'ed oil. Ford WSS-M2C946-A according to the Owner's Manual. So what's your question then?
With the all-PAO formula, and additional dexos1 Gen2 qualifications on top of the Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec you ignored, the oil qualifies for better wear protection and fewer deposits, if one wants that. You might not want any of that, and it's your choice.
Just checked this Ravenol stuff - $13 per quart on Amazon. If I'm not mistaken you can buy Supertech oil from Walmart that meets the same spec and get a 5-quart bottle for a few dollars more than a single quart of this stuff.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Just checked this Ravenol stuff - $13 per quart on Amazon. If I'm not mistaken you can buy Supertech oil from Walmart that meets the same spec and get a 5-quart bottle for a few dollars more than a single quart of this stuff.
Actually its $50 per 5-quart jug on Amazon and Blauparts.com too. Not cheap; only to be selected if you're engine is worth it. ...
The "VALUE", bang-per-nickel, is in Magnatec or M1 EP at walmart in 5-qt jugs, that is a different conversation, not the subject of this thread.
 
Originally Posted by KoolG6
Last 3 to 4 Oil changes I was running PUP 5w30 but hearing it's not the best for lspi I want to try something better.

What would you guys recommend?

What problems are you encountering with the current oil ? Be careful with what you hear - way too much nonsense is out there based on theory, not real-world cases. The oil you're using meets Ford's spec for that engine.

If anything, try Castrol. Ford designed the oil specs with Castrol oil in mind. Just get Magnatec or for a couple more dollars, Edge. No need for fancy, hard-to-get boutique oils by any means !
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Just checked this Ravenol stuff - $13 per quart on Amazon. If I'm not mistaken you can buy Supertech oil from Walmart that meets the same spec and get a 5-quart bottle for a few dollars more than a single quart of this stuff.
Actually its $50 per 5-quart jug on Amazon and Blauparts.com too. Not cheap; only to be selected if you're engine is worth it. ...
The "VALUE", bang-per-nickel, is in Magnatec or M1 EP at walmart in 5-qt jugs, that is a different conversation, not the subject of this thread.


Not really. The reason that "value" gets brought up so much in EVERY thread is that there just isn't a real world difference in long term results between synthetics - provided they meet the specs.

Heck, you could make an argument that you can't even really show a real-world long-term difference between a modern "conventional" and synthetics (used in the appropriate spec).

Both supertech and ravenol will likely get your vehicle to 250,000 without any oil-related failures.

But if ravenol makes you FEEL better - well ok then, use it.
 
The owner's manual for Fusions (Mondeos) in EU indicate this in their owner's manuals:

Ford-Castrol Magnatec (WSS-M2C948-B)
Ford-Castrol Magnatec (WSS-M2C913-D)

Quote
The engine has been designed to be used with Castrol and Ford Engine Oil, which gives a fuel economy benefit while maintaining the durability of the engine.
Adding oil: If you are unable to find an oil that meets the specification defined by WSS-M2C948-B or WSS-M2C913-C, you must use SAE 5W-20 or SAE 5W-30 that meets the specification defined by ACEA A5/B5.

We recommend Castrol and Ford engine oils and lubricants.
 
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by dave1251
What does Ravenol do to make the engine last longer then the specified oil from Ford?
Not sure what you mean, since that Ravenol IS Ford spec'ed oil. Ford WSS-M2C946-A according to the Owner's Manual. So what's your question then?
With the all-PAO formula, and additional dexos1 Gen2 qualifications on top of the Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec you ignored, the oil qualifies for better wear protection and fewer deposits, if one wants that. You might not want any of that, and it's your choice.

I know the -B1 versions of the Ford specs didn't exist when the 2016s came out, but I'm pretty sure Ford recommends them for all Ecoboosts now.
My take would be to get an oil with a -B1 spec for any Ecoboost, but I am also Mr. Conservative about LSPI.

I thought the SN Plus oils were supposed to help LSPI, and almost every oil now is that grade, including cheaper ones.
 
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by dave1251
What does Ravenol do to make the engine last longer then the specified oil from Ford?
Not sure what you mean, since that Ravenol IS Ford spec'ed oil. Ford WSS-M2C946-A according to the Owner's Manual. So what's your question then?
With the all-PAO formula, and additional dexos1 Gen2 qualifications on top of the Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec you ignored, the oil qualifies for better wear protection and fewer deposits, if one wants that. You might not want any of that, and it's your choice.

I know the -B1 versions of the Ford specs didn't exist when the 2016s came out, but I'm pretty sure Ford recommends them for all Ecoboosts now.
My take would be to get an oil with a -B1 spec for any Ecoboost, but I am also Mr. Conservative about LSPI.

I thought the SN Plus oils were supposed to help LSPI, and almost every oil now is that grade, including cheaper ones.


Don't believe all the oil industry hype you hear they just pushed the LSPI problem right back in the customers lap. That's a lot cheaper than a real fix and retrofit that they really need to be required to do.
 
The B1 spec is something new from Ford? Never heard of it until now. I'll look into it

I plan on changing my oil prob after winter and right before winter basically every 6 months
 
Looking into the B1 seems the high end Mobil 1 oils meet B1 Dexos gen 2, sn plus etc regular Edge doesn't meet B1.

Think I might try to grab some Mobil 1 annual protection or something on sale and see what happens!
 
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson

Don't believe all the oil industry hype you hear they just pushed the LSPI problem right back in the customers lap. That's a lot cheaper than a real fix and retrofit that they really need to be required to do.

Since the problem got pushed into the customer's lap, he's supposed to do nothing while he waits for his manufacturer to give him a new engine out of the blue??
It's not hard to buy SN+, d1G2, and/or -B1 oil.
My car was recalled for LSPI, that issue is not just in the realm of theory for me. Some people got new engines...some people had the electrodes on their plugs nearly worn away...I paid for new plugs (zero labor) since mine only looked "OK" to the mechanic, I still have them and they sure don't look great. Interestingly enough, some folks got a good carbon cleaning on the dealer's dime, which probably was pointing out another issue with this DIT engine. I had already been using M1 5W30 for a while due to LSPI concerns and was feeling pretty good about finding out about that issue online well before the recall.
 
Originally Posted by KoolG6
Looking into the B1 seems the high end Mobil 1 oils meet B1 Dexos gen 2, sn plus etc regular Edge doesn't meet B1.

Think I might try to grab some Mobil 1 annual protection or something on sale and see what happens!


Vanilla Mobil1 meets the B1 spec - see PDS
 
I'd probably run QSUD 5w30 in it because it's less than $20 per 5qts at Meijer or Walmart and meets the Ford spec.

Its a Ford, it will live a long life on any oil meeting the spec. You'll be ready to junk it before a oil related failure happens
 
I have the same engine in my Focus ST. I just used SuperTech Synthetic 5W-30 which is Dexos Gen2. Changing it slightly early because of potential fuel dilution and my worries about carbon build-up. I'm doing 5000-6000 miles changes with the stock Ford filter. I drive long enough intervals that the thing gets warmed up routinely.

I'm also running water-meth because I'm paranoid about valves, detonation and LSPI. Clean engine, low temps, etc....etc... = happy engine.
 
Originally Posted by KevinP
I have the same engine in my Focus ST. I just used SuperTech Synthetic 5W-30 which is Dexos Gen2. Changing it slightly early because of potential fuel dilution and my worries about carbon build-up. I'm doing 5000-6000 miles changes with the stock Ford filter. I drive long enough intervals that the thing gets warmed up routinely.

I'm also running water-meth because I'm paranoid about valves, detonation and LSPI. Clean engine, low temps, etc....etc... = happy engine.


I will eventually get a fully programmed in, 4 port auxiliary fuel injection system added to mine as well, for the same reasons, even if I NEVER go to a hybrid turbo (factory frame size turbo, but bigger wheels internally, for those who don't know what this is)/big turbo setup for much more power!
 
Originally Posted by KevinP
I have the same engine in my Focus ST. I just used SuperTech Synthetic 5W-30 which is Dexos Gen2. Changing it slightly early because of potential fuel dilution and my worries about carbon build-up. I'm doing 5000-6000 miles changes with the stock Ford filter. I drive long enough intervals that the thing gets warmed up routinely.

I'm also running water-meth because I'm paranoid about valves, detonation and LSPI. Clean engine, low temps, etc....etc... = happy engine.

Where on the label does Supertech mention itself as a deposits fighter?
I'll save you a trip looking...... it doesn't.
This is not an oil I would recommend for TGDI/GDI engines.
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
It says on the bottle SN+ and Dexos1 Gen2. That says a lot more than a blanket statement of "deposit fighter".

Wrong!
If the product doesn't advertise deposit-buildup-fighter, then it likely doesn't fight at all.
All the name brands advertise it. But Supertech/Warren doesn't. Never buy a product that doesn't advertise cleaning/removing/minimizing something harmful, that must stay 100% workable-clean.

That symbol on the bottle doesn't keep deposits from forming .... from increased buildup. Don't be so naive. Read/follow the label-wordings. Not symbols that are so generic and weak-in-relation. These days, Joe-Blow Oil Co can get cert-symbols. Joe Blow is not responsible for things he doesn't advertise in cleaning ability.

So obviously, the oil wording, not the cert, is doing and responsible for, all the cleaning work with GDIs.
 
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