IR231. Dirt cheap and legendary. You won't need anything stronger than that as a DIY.
How much torque in impact guns?
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Originally Posted by demarpaint
Bingo. I had a tire rotation done over the winter, [a mistake I was lazy and it was cold] with a NYS inspection. My battery powered Mikita, and a friend's Milwaukee was not busting the lug nuts loose, the Blue Point impact wasn't doing it either. I had to break out the Aircat 1150 to get them off.
I'll second the aircat 1150. The op mentioned crank bolts. Those on some cars can be reallllly hard to get lose. Electric won't do it. I have an aircat 1150. Wish i had gotten one sooner. Its a lot of power for the money.
I fthink Trav recommended it to me some time back.
Bingo. I had a tire rotation done over the winter, [a mistake I was lazy and it was cold] with a NYS inspection. My battery powered Mikita, and a friend's Milwaukee was not busting the lug nuts loose, the Blue Point impact wasn't doing it either. I had to break out the Aircat 1150 to get them off.
I'll second the aircat 1150. The op mentioned crank bolts. Those on some cars can be reallllly hard to get lose. Electric won't do it. I have an aircat 1150. Wish i had gotten one sooner. Its a lot of power for the money.
I fthink Trav recommended it to me some time back.
While the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hi Torque might not have as much nut busting power as the most powerful 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench (and certainly not as much as a 3/4") it will probably remove all the bolts and nuts the OP is likely to come across.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
I've never seen any electric impact remove a factory tightened Honda Crank bolt! Every mechanic in the shop besides me are huge Milwaukee Fuel fanboys.....They never miss an opportunity to show off! While they are impressive......They can't do everything!
I have a Proto 3/4" Impact that has save my A** more than a few times! I use a IR-231 for most "heavy line" tear-down work & outperforms ANY electric Impact on the market.
As for Impact Sockets vs Chrome Sockets.....I've rarely seen a high quality 1/2" chrome socket crack with HEAVY DAILY use on an impact. And have yet to see one explode.
I've cracked MANY 1/2" chrome sockets using hand tools though......
I have a Proto 3/4" Impact that has save my A** more than a few times! I use a IR-231 for most "heavy line" tear-down work & outperforms ANY electric Impact on the market.
As for Impact Sockets vs Chrome Sockets.....I've rarely seen a high quality 1/2" chrome socket crack with HEAVY DAILY use on an impact. And have yet to see one explode.
I've cracked MANY 1/2" chrome sockets using hand tools though......
Every Factory tightened Honda Crank bolt that I have removed with my IR231, I had to put a screw driver on the pressure switch to hold the contacts open till the compressor had 140 to 145psi. My compressor was set for 125psi cut off. Honda Crank bolts are tough customers! I would be impressed if a battery powered impact could muster up the torque to break one of those Crank bolts loose!
My IR231 is an older model, I believe it was rated at about 425 ft.lbs, strongest in its day.
My IR231 is an older model, I believe it was rated at about 425 ft.lbs, strongest in its day.
Originally Posted by Lubener
I have had crank bolts and suspension bolts which an air and electric impacts wouldn't budge, they aren't always a problem solver. A breaker bar and a pipe always worked. A breaker bar and a starter bump always worked for a stubborn crank bolt.
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
I have had crank bolts and suspension bolts which an air and electric impacts wouldn't budge, they aren't always a problem solver. A breaker bar and a pipe always worked. A breaker bar and a starter bump always worked for a stubborn crank bolt.
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Got a 1" IR for crank bolts. Zips off Hondas in 2 seconds.
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71BN39XkAsL._SL1500_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
If I didn't have that I'd get one of their Power Sockets.
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Ol0fOEcQL._SL1280_.jpg "[Linked Image]")
If I didn't have that I'd get one of their Power Sockets.
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Ok folks, I found the OP the perfect nut buster impact. Tanaka makes a two stroke powered impact, like what they used back in the rail road days. I believe its available in 1" and 1 1/4 sizes. Not only will he be able to remove anything, he can also discuss the two stroke oil options on BITOG.
I can just see it now... " which two stroke oil for my impact gun".
I can just see it now... " which two stroke oil for my impact gun".
Originally Posted by clinebarger
I've never seen any electric impact remove a factory tightened Honda Crank bolt! Every mechanic in the shop besides me are huge Milwaukee Fuel fanboys.....They never miss an opportunity to show off! While they are impressive......They can't do everything!
I have a Proto 3/4" Impact that has save my A** more than a few times! I use a IR-231 for most "heavy line" tear-down work & outperforms ANY electric Impact on the market.
As for Impact Sockets vs Chrome Sockets.....I've rarely seen a high quality 1/2" chrome socket crack with HEAVY DAILY use on an impact. And have yet to see one explode.
I've cracked MANY 1/2" chrome sockets using hand tools though......
Same here. For Honda crank pulley bolts this tool has yet to fail me:
https://www.sptool.com/product/6010...armonic-damper-pulley-holding-tool-50mm/
Sure, it is the old-fashioned method but it will work.
I've never seen any electric impact remove a factory tightened Honda Crank bolt! Every mechanic in the shop besides me are huge Milwaukee Fuel fanboys.....They never miss an opportunity to show off! While they are impressive......They can't do everything!
I have a Proto 3/4" Impact that has save my A** more than a few times! I use a IR-231 for most "heavy line" tear-down work & outperforms ANY electric Impact on the market.
As for Impact Sockets vs Chrome Sockets.....I've rarely seen a high quality 1/2" chrome socket crack with HEAVY DAILY use on an impact. And have yet to see one explode.
I've cracked MANY 1/2" chrome sockets using hand tools though......
Same here. For Honda crank pulley bolts this tool has yet to fail me:
https://www.sptool.com/product/6010...armonic-damper-pulley-holding-tool-50mm/
Sure, it is the old-fashioned method but it will work.
I didn't even need it, but it seemed like a good deal, and I'll be glad I bought it at some point. It is a Wright Tool torque multiplier. New price is $1000, and I bought it for $350.
It has a torque multiplication of 6:1, and it is rated to produce 1200 foot pounds on the output with only 200 on the input. Big impacts are great for removing stuff, but no way to get close to correct torque on assembly. This thing has a torque conversion chart, and a degree wheel for TTY fasteners, and won't beat up precision bearings. There are cheaper versions out there, but without as much multiplication, or quality. They make some that make crazy torque, but are crazy priced into the thousands of dollars.
It has a torque multiplication of 6:1, and it is rated to produce 1200 foot pounds on the output with only 200 on the input. Big impacts are great for removing stuff, but no way to get close to correct torque on assembly. This thing has a torque conversion chart, and a degree wheel for TTY fasteners, and won't beat up precision bearings. There are cheaper versions out there, but without as much multiplication, or quality. They make some that make crazy torque, but are crazy priced into the thousands of dollars.
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For lug nut busting torque, my Ingersoll extended anvil cordless is tough to beat. Says 780 foot pounds, and I found out the hard way with 2 previous impacts, that are highly over rated. But this one works perfect with variable speed too, after 4 years and thousands of lug nuts. Sometimes it is worth the money to buy the right tool for the job. You can always sell it when your done with it, which I've done many times with other tools. It is like cheap rental.
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JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by Donald
While the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hi Torque might not have as much nut busting power as the most powerful 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench (and certainly not as much as a 3/4") it will probably remove all the bolts and nuts the OP is likely to come across.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
Dunno...
Tried removing these lugs off of chromed wheels. The car has always lived in CA until I brought it here, and never has seen snow. Some rain since being here though...
Lugs were affixed for around 7 years.
My M18 impact couldn't remove these bolts, a long breaker bar could.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/05/full-698-32663-84436137_3bd4_44d5_8a54_7f89d8c74f72.jpeg "[Linked Image]")
While the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hi Torque might not have as much nut busting power as the most powerful 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench (and certainly not as much as a 3/4") it will probably remove all the bolts and nuts the OP is likely to come across.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
Dunno...
Tried removing these lugs off of chromed wheels. The car has always lived in CA until I brought it here, and never has seen snow. Some rain since being here though...
Lugs were affixed for around 7 years.
My M18 impact couldn't remove these bolts, a long breaker bar could.
That would have been a great job to test various impacts and hose/fitting sizes. So much for a gazillion nut busting ft.lb of torque eh.
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by Donald
While the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hi Torque might not have as much nut busting power as the most powerful 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench (and certainly not as much as a 3/4") it will probably remove all the bolts and nuts the OP is likely to come across.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
Dunno...
Tried removing these lugs off of chromed wheels. The car has always lived in CA until I brought it here, and never has seen snow. Some rain since being here though...
Lugs were affixed for around 7 years.
My M18 impact couldn't remove these bolts, a long breaker bar could.
Those may have also been installed with an air impact 7 years ago. As we all know some places just zap them on with the air guns and stop when it starts hammering. Could have been ridiculously tight to begin with.
Originally Posted by Donald
While the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hi Torque might not have as much nut busting power as the most powerful 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench (and certainly not as much as a 3/4") it will probably remove all the bolts and nuts the OP is likely to come across.
I think shops use the pneumatic impact wrenches as they are more rugged, can be dropped, dragged by the hose and do not need recharging. More balanced and lighter.
But for the most part you need to bring the work to the air supply. With a cordless impact wrench, you can bring the wrench to the work. And while I have plenty of air hose, I would just assume not drag the air hose through mud or similar to remove a nut or bolt on a trailer.
Obviously the best solution is to have both.
Dunno...
Tried removing these lugs off of chromed wheels. The car has always lived in CA until I brought it here, and never has seen snow. Some rain since being here though...
Lugs were affixed for around 7 years.
My M18 impact couldn't remove these bolts, a long breaker bar could.
Those may have also been installed with an air impact 7 years ago. As we all know some places just zap them on with the air guns and stop when it starts hammering. Could have been ridiculously tight to begin with.
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JHZR2
Staff member
^ I know they weren't because I installed them.
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