noob question for exhaust bolts with spring

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Hi

I haven't repaired any exhaust system for a while and I need to change the muffler from my beater this Saturday. I bought a muffler and a set of bolts and nuts with spring. My noob question is do I need to tight the nut until it touches the end (or the stopper) of the bolt? I know the question sounds stupid. But I want to make sure that it's the right thing to do and I don't want take anything for granted.

Also, if you don't have oxygen/ acetylene torch, what home tools or products you use to unfreeze the rusted nuts?

Thx.
 
Originally Posted by ST2008
Hi

I haven't repaired any exhaust system for a while and I need to change the muffler from my beater this Saturday. I bought a muffler and a set of bolts and nuts with spring. My noob question is do I need to tight the nut until it touches the end (or the stopper) of the bolt? I know the question sounds stupid. But I want to make sure that it's the right thing to do and I don't want take anything for granted.

Also, if you don't have oxygen/ acetylene torch, what home tools or products you use to unfreeze the rusted nuts?

Thx.


What vehicle is this? I usually cut those bolts with a sawzall or grinder since I don't have a torch you are buying new bolts.

On my 97 civic you can't tighten them all the way down. You will see once the joint is tight. Thread one side then do the other before you fully tighten them up. You may need a new donut gasket too.
 
I've seen at least two different spring bolt designs. There's the one with a nut and then there's one without a nut and one of the exhaust flanges itself is what the bolt threads into.

I'd say look at the bolts and the flanges carefully to make sure you're using them correctly. The stopper should only be used to make sure the bolt locks against one of the flanges. The actual compression that holds the joint together is done by the springs.

For removal I use a cheap 65.00 MAPP Pro torch from Home Depot. Gets the crusty spring bolts out all the time.

[Linked Image]
 
Can't help with the spring thing, but the best thing for rusted nuts is some penetrating oil, and then tighten them till they break off. Or a hacksaw.
 
That joint likely has a sintered iron donut gasket inside it. When you have it apart, I would plan on replacing it. Only a couple bucks.

I would run the nuts down "a healthy amount", whatever I judge that to be. A little potential flex is designed in, and I'd rather it bend there vs metal fatiguing the weld on the flange or who-knows-what. And anti-sieze everything, just to buy you a year.
 
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
I've seen at least two different spring bolt designs. There's the one with a nut and then there's one without a nut and one of the exhaust flanges itself is what the bolt threads into.

I'd say look at the bolts and the flanges carefully to make sure you're using them correctly. The stopper should only be used to make sure the bolt locks against one of the flanges. The actual compression that holds the joint together is done by the springs.

For removal I use a cheap 65.00 MAPP Pro torch from Home Depot. Gets the crusty spring bolts out all the time.

attachments...pring-loaded-bolts-coil-bind-001-large-g

;
who welded that? better than I have ever done
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted by JC1
Originally Posted by ST2008
Hi

I haven't repaired any exhaust system for a while and I need to change the muffler from my beater this Saturday. I bought a muffler and a set of bolts and nuts with spring. My noob question is do I need to tight the nut until it touches the end (or the stopper) of the bolt? I know the question sounds stupid. But I want to make sure that it's the right thing to do and I don't want take anything for granted.

Also, if you don't have oxygen/ acetylene torch, what home tools or products you use to unfreeze the rusted nuts?

Thx.


What vehicle is this? I usually cut those bolts with a sawzall or grinder since I don't have a torch you are buying new bolts.

On my 97 civic you can't tighten them all the way down. You will see once the joint is tight. Thread one side then do the other before you fully tighten them up. You may need a new donut gasket too.



My beater is a Honda civic as well (2000). I bought this set of nut and bolts from amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/Walker-35129-...mp;psc=1&refRID=YVA6H3MA8EYCR1H56NRZ

I also bought the donut gasket to make sure that I miss nothing.

The only thing I hope is I don't need to fight with the rusted bolt and nuts to the death.
 
just cut the old ones off.. if you dont have one a $10 grinder from HF will do.
 
.just cut the old ones off.. if you don't have one a $10 grinder from HF will do. The U type muffler clamps are considered one time use. My 4" HF cost me about 13$, The loudest noise from it is the right angle gears. Hasn't failed yet is my qualified endorsement.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by eljefino
That joint likely has a sintered iron donut gasket inside it. When you have it apart, I would plan on replacing it. Only a couple bucks.

I would run the nuts down "a healthy amount", whatever I judge that to be. A little potential flex is designed in, and I'd rather it bend there vs metal fatiguing the weld on the flange or who-knows-what. And anti-sieze everything, just to buy you a year.



Of course, one could consult a service manual and find that the torque is quite low - 15 - 25 lb/ft. is typical for that type of fastener. I have more faith in the engineers than "a healthy amount". Gorillas should be in zoos.

OP - spec for your car is 15 lb/ft. done in steps side to side.
 
Last edited:
no matter what i would use ant-size compound. and NO cad plated bolts or nuts.. the heat will make the cad plating come off and jam the threads.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
just cut the old ones off.. if you dont have one a $10 grinder from HF will do.

Originally Posted by ST2008
Originally Posted by JC1
Originally Posted by ST2008
Hi

I haven't repaired any exhaust system for a while and I need to change the muffler from my beater this Saturday. I bought a muffler and a set of bolts and nuts with spring. My noob question is do I need to tight the nut until it touches the end (or the stopper) of the bolt? I know the question sounds stupid. But I want to make sure that it's the right thing to do and I don't want take anything for granted.

Also, if you don't have oxygen/ acetylene torch, what home tools or products you use to unfreeze the rusted nuts?

Thx.


What vehicle is this? I usually cut those bolts with a sawzall or grinder since I don't have a torch you are buying new bolts.

On my 97 civic you can't tighten them all the way down. You will see once the joint is tight. Thread one side then do the other before you fully tighten them up. You may need a new donut gasket too.



My beater is a Honda civic as well (2000). I bought this set of nut and bolts from amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/Walker-35129-...mp;psc=1&refRID=YVA6H3MA8EYCR1H56NRZ

I also bought the donut gasket to make sure that I miss nothing.

The only thing I hope is I don't need to fight with the rusted bolt and nuts to the death.


Those will work.


Originally Posted by Rand
just cut the old ones off.. if you dont have one a $10 grinder from HF will do.


The OP is in Canada, we don't have HF up here. Closest thing is Princess Auto, but their prices aren't as good as HF.

Use whatever you can to cut the bolts off. Hack saw, sawzall, grinder. I use anti-seize on the new bolts when installing.
 
Free tip: if you find that the springs are making it difficult to get the bolts threaded in, you can use a couple of zip ties as a spring compressor:
[Linked Image]

Get the zip ties threaded through, compress the spring in a vise, then tighten the zip ties while it's compressed.
They'll be much easier to install that way. Once you get the bolts started, just cut the zip ties off.
 
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