Replacement battery for jump box.

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I have this 5 year old ES5000 Booster Pac jump box and the battery is getting tired.

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I used it to start 2 Hondas in storage without batteries to move them, but afterwards it wouldn't start a van with a dead battery. A new jump box is $126. Has anyone just replaced the battery, and if so what did you use?
 
I did it on my Schumacher. It was easy-peasy and the battery was $40, still going a couple of years later. It has a battery hatch on the bottom. Just take it apart and see what battery is in it. Mine is a 12180 AGM; I bought a PSH-12180 which is a high current version.
 
Crack your box open-- the replacements are numbered basically on amp-hours. Yours is likely a 12 Ah.
 
I am well familiar with your jump box, I have had two of them and used them daily. It is the best jump box we ever had. When the battery wore-out on the first one, I replaced it with a 22ah SLA battery from a large battery seller on eBay that was supposed to be a direct replacement. It never worked as well with the replacement battery. With the OEM battery it would easily jump a diesel pickup with dead batteries, but it wouldn't with the replacement battery.
 
You can move a lighter, more powerful lithium booster for a little more than a new battery. I used the MicroStarts for a while (125$) but after I burned a few out I found this cheapie on Amazon. I bought the extended warranty also, and its started a BMW 740i with no issues.
https://smile.amazon.com/Imazing-Portable-Car-Jump-Starter/dp/B07GLSCLHP/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?crid=1BDY5SI2AKYA7&keywords=imazing+jump+starter&qid=1556466841&s=gateway&sprefix=imazing+ju%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3-fkmrnull

Mine is the 1200a, I dont see it. It was 50$ on sale.
 
Originally Posted by Audios
You can move a lighter, more powerful lithium booster for a little more than a new battery.


I do have one but also need a regular jump box for moving cars without batteries.
 
Originally Posted by MrMoody
I did it on my Schumacher. It was easy-peasy and the battery was $40, still going a couple of years later. It has a battery hatch on the bottom. Just take it apart and see what battery is in it. Mine is a 12180 AGM; I bought a PSH-12180 which is a high current version.



^^ Exactly what these guys are saying!! ^^

The battery you replace it with will likely be a higher-amp version.

It's well worth the extra $20 to go that route.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Ordered this one,

[Linked Image]


wonder if I should have paid $4 extra for a 3 year warranty.


ROCK ON, it should work

See if they'll still let you add the $4 extra, it's probably worth it
 
Mine (Schumacher PS-120A "Mighty Mite") is pretty much dead after about 13 years. I wasn't sure if I could do it, but it seemed pretty easy with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. The only problem is that I accidentally bent back something that was sticking off the board. Looks like a discrete power transistor with a heat sink screwed on to it. It's just a The solder broke off, but I think I could probably remelt it with a cheap soldering iron.

The battery is a 6FM12, which seems easy enough to get. However, Batteries Plus shows its cheapest one at $49.99. I paid $39.99 for this box in 2006. I see plenty of places that list if for under $20, but then shipping can be more than the battery.
 
Originally Posted by Audios
You can move a lighter, more powerful lithium booster for a little more than a new battery. I used the MicroStarts for a while (125$) but after I burned a few out I found this cheapie on Amazon. I bought the extended warranty also, and its started a BMW 740i with no issues.
https://smile.amazon.com/Imazing-Portable-Car-Jump-Starter/dp/B07GLSCLHP/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?crid=1BDY5SI2AKYA7&keywords=imazing+jump+starter&qid=1556466841&s=gateway&sprefix=imazing+ju%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3-fkmrnull

Mine is the 1200a, I dont see it. It was 50$ on sale.


No, that's the dirty little secret AKA fraud. A few years back, the SLA battery boxes started fraudulently rating their cranking amps, using same battery and cables, (which is pretty much all they are to the extent of jumping duty) suddenly they were claiming 50%, 100%, even 200% more cranking amps.

Next along came the Chinese with no reservations about fraud at all, with their Li-Ion packs that can only deliver 1/4 to 1/2 as much current yet they claim 500% even 1000% more cranking amps than they can deliver.

Want to know the true cranking amps? Read the battery (not jump box) manufacturer spec sheet. You can exceed that rating for the short duration of a jump, but the fact is that if your jump pack were putting out 1200A, it would instantaneously melt and burn.

Apparently consumer protection laws went out the window when amazon and ebay came along.
 
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cca is determined by the batteries internal resistance or esr.
only major brands publish the true specs of these batteries.
all those cheap nonames out there either have no datasheets or the claimed specs are blatant lies.
the best ones are rated for high rate ups use.
rated in watt hours.
if given a choice pick the one with the lowest internal resistance/esr.
 
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