adjusting dexter axle brakes

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Anyone do this? It's my understanding that you tighten the starwheel adjuster until the wheel won't turn, then back it off until it drags a little bit. I've been gradually increasing the power of the brake controller. It's all the way up right now and the brakes don't really work .
 
Personally I don't think it needs to drag even a little, it will build too much heat like that. If your trailer has been sitting for any length of time your drums may very well have a slight bit of corrosion, or film rust on the inside face of the drum. Thats where the magnet applies electric power from your controller to the arm that controlls the brake shoes. Might not really look like the normal type of rust your used to seeing but its enough to create a problem for the magnets ability to apply enough clamping power to the brake pads to be effective.

Or, could be time for an overhaul of your brake system, magnets, maybe drums too. If the shoes look good, they can be reused.

Can you hear your trailer brakes clicking when you use the controller slide brake check? Power is getting to the magnets?
 
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Yes they click. You can hear them activating. This trailer gets used everyday, but what I don't get I sometimes they work okay, sometimes, not. How long do drum brakes last? I would think they woud need a couple adjustments before they get worn out. Last time I had the tire jacked up they were just free wheeling, no drag at all. I gave each starwheel adjuster like half a turn, but it was still freewheeling after that. Probably needs more turns, but I was getting paranoid that I might have been doing it wrong.
 
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Well, remember one side will turn one way on the star adjuster, as in up, the opposite side will be down. You will have to figure out which way one side goes, other side will be opposite. Drum brakes wear in an arch pattern so yes you might need to make more than a couple turns of the star adjuster. Your starting in the right place, the adjusters. Electric drum brakes are not "cutting edge" they are more like electric dumb brakes, except when they are new or fairly new. Once the shoes get arched life is down hill for them. If adjusting does not provide you with some decent braking power, back off the star adjusters and pull the drums and have a look at the shoes, see if they no longer have the proper shape= round/half moon, same as the drum, should be plain a day if they are worn out of shape. They do not have to have the braking pad material completely worn, just out of the proper shape, that's enough to make them not have enough contact with the drum to have reduced braking power.

eta; If your brakes sometimes work fine, and sometimes don't? your looking at an electrical problem, would probably test controller, I would just buy new magnets and install, if its not the magnet you have some spare parts, the magnets will go bad someday! What model brake controller do you have.

What kind of trailer plug do you use, flat 4 prong, or 7 pin round, those are the only two commonly use plugs these days.
 
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Originally Posted by motor_oil_madman
Anyone do this? It's my understanding that you tighten the starwheel adjuster until the wheel won't turn, then back it off until it drags a little bit. I've been gradually increasing the power of the brake controller. It's all the way up right now and the brakes don't really work .



Check your plug and socket , easy for corrosion to be in play. If the connections look good, then I'd pull the hubs and look at every thing.
 
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Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by motor_oil_madman
Anyone do this? It's my understanding that you tighten the starwheel adjuster until the wheel won't turn, then back it off until it drags a little bit. I've been gradually increasing the power of the brake controller. It's all the way up right now and the brakes don't really work .



Check your plug and socket , easy for corrosion to be in play. If the connections look good, then I'd pull the hubs and look at every thing.


I agree. If the brakes work sometimes, its going to be the plug connection. Easy fix!
Adjuster probably still could use some adjusting, but that not your main problem.

Your going to have to use a test light or a volt meter to test both plug and receptacle.
 
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I have a trailer with 3500 lb dexter axles

the issue I was having wasn't the adjustment or the controller/connections etc.

you could hear the magnets activating etc but the stud/pivot point on the arm to spread the shoes was seized on both sides and the shoes weren't really moving/spreading

once i got the points freed up on both sides the brakes started working normally again.

if you don't know exactly how the brakes works you can always run a search etc. I didn't know quite how the brakes worked until I had an issue with them so I familiarized myself with them before i took them apart.
 
also if you have multiple issues, with either the shoes bad or the magnets bad etc. you can order new assemblies that just simply bolt on and you don't have to mess with taking things apart and replacing individual parts, just installing the new assembly and hooking up the wiring
 
I have Dexter axles on my 7500 lbs. travel trailer. Mine are adjust how I have done it on both of my trailers. Just enough drag to hear it.
I have a Prodigy brake control and it really made a difference as compared to the one I had before it.
It sounds like you issue is electrical to me. Connector most likely if it is affecting all the brakes.
 
Originally Posted by Black_Thunder
also if you have multiple issues, with either the shoes bad or the magnets bad etc. you can order new assemblies that just simply bolt on and you don't have to mess with taking things apart and replacing individual parts, just installing the new assembly and hooking up the wiring

That is the way to do it, when I did the brakes on 5th wheel I bought the back plate with everything installed. So easy!
 
Have you ever taken the drums off?

Do you understand what happens inside and how they should work? The things that can possibly get stuck, wear out, or break, and how to inspect and adjust them? This is fundamental understanding for the troubleshooting of any machine.

Since the force that moves the shoes is derived from the rotation of the wheel, they only work when the trailer is moving in one direction. That direction of course must be forward like in normal driving. There is a "left" and "right" assembly that are mirror images of each other. If they are on the wrong side they would only work when the trailer is moving backward.

Every brake controller has a light or some indication that the circuit through the trailer is complete. If this light is on it doesn't necessarily mean the brakes will work, but if it is showing the same as it does when the trailer is not connected they definitely are not going to work.

Turn the controller power all the way up, then test drive about 25 mph and pull the manual lever, the trailer brakes should lock up, both sides. Then turn the power down so they won't lock while driving. Do this test frequently, like after every time you hook up the trailer. If they work great sometimes but not at all others, that is likely an electrical issue. Just like the lights, trailer brakes need to be well grounded. A separate ground wire network is much better than trusting attachments to the frame.
 
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As for dragging shoes, the idea is to minimize the amount of shoe travel, and when the shoes are new, to minimize the time for break-in. You don't need a lot of drag. You just want the slightest touch. If you are doing new shoes, ideally after break-in, adjust them again to just barely touch.
 
Drums expand when they heat up, right? So if you had a very slight drag, they'd just move out a bit and then be fully clear? Curious.
 
Electric brakes work in both directions. If you let the shoes get too much clearance that is when you get a brake to lock up and not come off until to go in the other direction. Pivot point stickiness on the arm can make them erratic on working also.
 
Originally Posted by ls1mike
I have Dexter axles on my 7500 lbs. travel trailer. Mine are adjust how I have done it on both of my trailers. Just enough drag to hear it.
I have a Prodigy brake control and it really made a difference as compared to the one I had before it.
It sounds like you issue is electrical to me. Connector most likely if it is affecting all the brakes.



Prodigy brake controller is the best controller I have used, I have a 16k trailer and the boost 1-2-3 and inertia-based sensor are light years ahead of the old time based controllers. I will never use a time based controller again.

Come on MadMan, check a plug, pull a drum, wake up...Check in!
 
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