The hardest manual I tried to drive was a 67 Mercedes with a diesel engine and a four speed on the column, couldn't find first gear to save my rear end.
How long does it take to get good with a manual transmission?
- Thread starter OppositeLocK
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Had a '94 Civic coupe that I bought new with a manual. And it was pretty tough to shift smoothly. Although it seemed the higher you revved it before shifting the smoother it was. Although the engine was pretty loud when doing that. Had it 4.5 years and was kind of glad to get rid of it for an Accord coupe auto. Drove a Porsche 911 manual that was kind of clunky trying for smooth shifting along with a new Civic SI. Same with a new Honda S2000 where you really have to rev it for smooth launches or risk stalling.
On the flip side, some of the most fun, smooth shifting cars were a new '95 Ford Probe GT V6 manual and believe it or not a 1995 Acura NSX manual. That one was probably my all time favorite where I couldn't get enough of it.
On the flip side, some of the most fun, smooth shifting cars were a new '95 Ford Probe GT V6 manual and believe it or not a 1995 Acura NSX manual. That one was probably my all time favorite where I couldn't get enough of it.
Now you know why the manual transmission is possibly the best anti theft device in use today.
In some locations, you could leave the windows down, doors unlocked and keys on the seat. And never have a worry about theft.
By the way, "mastery" is one of the 4 manly traits. Those being Courage, Strength, Mastery and Honor.
Take the advice above and master it!
In some locations, you could leave the windows down, doors unlocked and keys on the seat. And never have a worry about theft.
By the way, "mastery" is one of the 4 manly traits. Those being Courage, Strength, Mastery and Honor.
Take the advice above and master it!
I learned to drive a manual on an underpowered 1969 VW bug which had 50hp and long cable operated clutch.
You cannot start in 2nd gear because you will immediately stall. No hydraulic clutch here.
But if you drive a manual bug, you can drive anything.
You cannot start in 2nd gear because you will immediately stall. No hydraulic clutch here.
But if you drive a manual bug, you can drive anything.
I'm sure a few people have had to drive a car without a working clutch. I've had to. I don't remember how I got the car moving other than bump-starting it (been too many years). The idea was of course, don't stop (if you can help it) ! Once rolling, at least on cars with synchro gears (??), you don't need the clutch to shift.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
I'm sure a few people have had to drive a car without a working clutch. I've had to.
Count me among them. The exhaust pipe cracked then fell from the exhaust manifold on my '69 Cortina, melting through the hydraulic-clutch hose.
I remembered my dad telling me that some city bus drivers didn't bother with the clutch, so I started the car in first and found how easy it was to shift into second immediately after releasing the gas pedal when it was time. Third and fourth were a snap and shifting down was just as easy.
After the car was totalled by a drunk I bought a '72 Cortina and the same thing happened to it. This time I didn't even blink. (Both rear-wheel drive.)
I often drove my '82 Mustang GT without bothering with the clutch, except from dead stops.
Front-wheel drive was different in a Toyota attempt. It wouldn't go into second. I think there was too much crap between the shifter and the front-wheel transmission. It wasn't my car, though, so I didn't work at it.
I'm sure a few people have had to drive a car without a working clutch. I've had to.
Count me among them. The exhaust pipe cracked then fell from the exhaust manifold on my '69 Cortina, melting through the hydraulic-clutch hose.
I remembered my dad telling me that some city bus drivers didn't bother with the clutch, so I started the car in first and found how easy it was to shift into second immediately after releasing the gas pedal when it was time. Third and fourth were a snap and shifting down was just as easy.
After the car was totalled by a drunk I bought a '72 Cortina and the same thing happened to it. This time I didn't even blink. (Both rear-wheel drive.)
I often drove my '82 Mustang GT without bothering with the clutch, except from dead stops.
Front-wheel drive was different in a Toyota attempt. It wouldn't go into second. I think there was too much crap between the shifter and the front-wheel transmission. It wasn't my car, though, so I didn't work at it.
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Hello friends, been a while since I posted; been really busy with work and life, haven't had a chance to drive it much either. Thank you to everyone who posted, I appreciated reading your tips, stories, and experiences.
Well, I drove it a good 100 miles today, in busier traffic too. Still not perfect all the time but a [censored] of a lot smoother. I've stopped stalling, and I've even started rev-matching. My downshifts are silky smooth now (you don't even feel that I changed gears). Honestly, I've never thought a shift could be that smooth (even in all the autos I've driven). That 1-2 shift is still tricky as [censored] on this car, but all the other ones are a lot better. Even starting doesn't give me much problems. The hill assist is a great feature and an important one because there are a lot of tailgating jacknuts around me. I'm still not quick (especially from a start), but I am smooth, which I think is better and more important to be in the start; the speed will pick up over time. Only thing I'm still finding extremely difficult is heel-toe. Can't figure out how to twist my leg properly to do it.
Ultimately, I think my biggest fear was destroying my brand new car, that I was using no throttle (trying not to burn the clutch). Now, giving it some gas and effectively "launching" the car from say about 2-2.5K RPM gets you a very nice start. Also, holding the clutch on the biting point for a little longer that I was (at all shifts); before I was letting up way too quick and that was the root of all my problems. You can bring it up to the biting point as quickly as you'd like, but you gotta hold it there until it connects nicely.
Still don't want to drive this in rush hour until I'm a master.
Well, I drove it a good 100 miles today, in busier traffic too. Still not perfect all the time but a [censored] of a lot smoother. I've stopped stalling, and I've even started rev-matching. My downshifts are silky smooth now (you don't even feel that I changed gears). Honestly, I've never thought a shift could be that smooth (even in all the autos I've driven). That 1-2 shift is still tricky as [censored] on this car, but all the other ones are a lot better. Even starting doesn't give me much problems. The hill assist is a great feature and an important one because there are a lot of tailgating jacknuts around me. I'm still not quick (especially from a start), but I am smooth, which I think is better and more important to be in the start; the speed will pick up over time. Only thing I'm still finding extremely difficult is heel-toe. Can't figure out how to twist my leg properly to do it.
Ultimately, I think my biggest fear was destroying my brand new car, that I was using no throttle (trying not to burn the clutch). Now, giving it some gas and effectively "launching" the car from say about 2-2.5K RPM gets you a very nice start. Also, holding the clutch on the biting point for a little longer that I was (at all shifts); before I was letting up way too quick and that was the root of all my problems. You can bring it up to the biting point as quickly as you'd like, but you gotta hold it there until it connects nicely.
Still don't want to drive this in rush hour until I'm a master.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Once rolling, at least on cars with synchro gears (??), you don't need the clutch to shift.
I still find it hard to change gears without using the clutch (floating) on a synchronized transmission since the RPM's have to drop so low for the lever to slip in, especially in some vehicles that have rev hang.
On a non-synchronized tractor-trailer transmission floating is life. Because you ain't double-clutching the 6-7 gears just to get up to street traffic speed.
Once rolling, at least on cars with synchro gears (??), you don't need the clutch to shift.
I still find it hard to change gears without using the clutch (floating) on a synchronized transmission since the RPM's have to drop so low for the lever to slip in, especially in some vehicles that have rev hang.
On a non-synchronized tractor-trailer transmission floating is life. Because you ain't double-clutching the 6-7 gears just to get up to street traffic speed.
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My suggestion find a slightly sloped parking lot and without giving gas learn the clutch by starting and stopping slightly uphill every 10'. Starting the car off does not require gas.
Driving a stick is a learned skill and the more you do it the better you get until you reach stickvanna and can drive the car without even thinking about it.
A stick is more fun and more entertaining to drive than an automatic.
Cherish yours while you can since they're a dying breed.
A stick is more fun and more entertaining to drive than an automatic.
Cherish yours while you can since they're a dying breed.
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Originally Posted by fdcg27
Driving a stick is a learned skill and the more you do it the better you get until you reach stickvanna and can drive the car without even thinking about it.
A stick is more fun and more entertaining to drive than an automatic.
Cherish yours while you can since they're a dying breed.
The more I'm getting acquainted it the more I agree. Manual is way better than an Automatic and infinitely more satisfying to drive.
Luckily, Subaru has said they will be putting a manual into the next gen WRX.
Driving a stick is a learned skill and the more you do it the better you get until you reach stickvanna and can drive the car without even thinking about it.
A stick is more fun and more entertaining to drive than an automatic.
Cherish yours while you can since they're a dying breed.
The more I'm getting acquainted it the more I agree. Manual is way better than an Automatic and infinitely more satisfying to drive.
Luckily, Subaru has said they will be putting a manual into the next gen WRX.
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by OppositeLocK
Only thing I'm still finding extremely difficult is heel-toe. Can't figure out how to twist my leg properly to do it.
Not sure you need to focus on that at all.
It helps on any car and adds finesse. Mandatory if you plan to try any HPDE's.
Watch this:Senna NSX
Originally Posted by OppositeLocK
Only thing I'm still finding extremely difficult is heel-toe. Can't figure out how to twist my leg properly to do it.
Not sure you need to focus on that at all.
It helps on any car and adds finesse. Mandatory if you plan to try any HPDE's.
Watch this:Senna NSX
As an aside, I wonder how long even that skill will last among high performance drivers. Max Verstappen mentioned during one video how he was very, very unused to using an ordinary clutch or shifter at all. I gather he likely never even saw that in any of the series he participated in while growing up.
I would put learning heel and toe downshifts on the backburner, if at all. Its usefulness is almost non-existent unless you're privy to low traffic twisty roads driving at the limit where fractions matter. Those fractions rarely matter outside of a racetrack. Double clutch downshifts is a skill worth learning though. In my instance with a low powered car and a gear ratio jump of 1.6 from 1st to 2nd anything under 15 kph my engine will lug. Hence, double clutching helps getting it back into first quickly, especially on an incline, if I have to slow down below the above threshold.
It's good to know your shift points and rpm throttle blips. Here's mine:
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/04/full-73532-32131-yarisshiftpoints.png "[Linked Image]")
It's good to know your shift points and rpm throttle blips. Here's mine:
Originally Posted by OppositeLocK
Ultimately, I think my biggest fear was destroying my brand new car, that I was using no throttle (trying not to burn the clutch). Now, giving it some gas and effectively "launching" the car from say about 2-2.5K RPM gets you a very nice start. Also, holding the clutch on the biting point for a little longer that I was (at all shifts); before I was letting up way too quick and that was the root of all my problems. You can bring it up to the biting point as quickly as you'd like, but you gotta hold it there until it connects nicely.
My first car 20 years ago was a manual Mazda 626, took me a good few months to get real comfortable with it, maybe a year to be really good.
I wouldn't drive too long "launching" it like you describe, that'll really wear on the clutch and IMO isn't the proper way. Go out into a parking lot with no one around and learn the friction point on the clutch. when it starts to grab then give it a little gas while letting the clutch out the rest of the way. I've had 4 manual cars ( including 2 subies) now and I've never needed to rev it up past 1K-1.5K RPM's starting off. What you're trying to do is get out of the friction zone as fast as possible to minimize wear.
Ultimately, I think my biggest fear was destroying my brand new car, that I was using no throttle (trying not to burn the clutch). Now, giving it some gas and effectively "launching" the car from say about 2-2.5K RPM gets you a very nice start. Also, holding the clutch on the biting point for a little longer that I was (at all shifts); before I was letting up way too quick and that was the root of all my problems. You can bring it up to the biting point as quickly as you'd like, but you gotta hold it there until it connects nicely.
My first car 20 years ago was a manual Mazda 626, took me a good few months to get real comfortable with it, maybe a year to be really good.
I wouldn't drive too long "launching" it like you describe, that'll really wear on the clutch and IMO isn't the proper way. Go out into a parking lot with no one around and learn the friction point on the clutch. when it starts to grab then give it a little gas while letting the clutch out the rest of the way. I've had 4 manual cars ( including 2 subies) now and I've never needed to rev it up past 1K-1.5K RPM's starting off. What you're trying to do is get out of the friction zone as fast as possible to minimize wear.
In the end, a manual transmission is a manual transmission and the controls are basically the same. So I think the answer to the OP's question depends on the dexterity and mental abilities of the learning driver, much more than it depends on the type of vehicle.
I remember my first attempt was on a 1972 Capri owned by a friend. I wanted to learn because my father and mother were leaving on a three week trip and my father had a 1973 Porsche 911E Targa. It was a company car so I really shouldn't have been driving it. Anyway after two short periods on the Capri I drove north and tried the 911 around town and actually did fine. The only complaint was the tight fit into the driver's seat. That and one episode on 1st Street in San Francisco heading up to the Bay Bridge where the old Union 76 sign was. Got caught at the light, at the top, three times. Three times you say? Yes, as I rolled all the way back all three times until I timed the fourth try. Fortunately a Sunday and zero traffic. The next time I drove a stick was 1980 as my new Civic had one. After seven years absence it was a piece of cake and have been stick ever since.
Depends on the vehicle and the transmission. I have and 18 speed in my commercial truck. Not only lever movement shifts, but also splits and hi and low range. 5 gears on the low range with both a high and low split on each gear. 4 gears on the high range with both high and low splits on each gear. Reverse has high range and low range and high and low splits on it also. And it is not synchronized like auto/pickup manual transmissions. Many people never get a grasp on operating such a transmission correctly. I have used similar transmissions for decades so I don't really have to think about what gear I need and when to grab it. if I am slowing quickly and not dropping individual gears on the way down, when I decide to make a shift I just do a quick glance at the speedometer and know exactly what gear and gear split I need to drop in to. If the conditions are right, one can skip gears on the way up. Lots of flexibility if one knows how to use it. Very unforgiving to those who don't.
After messing with that cumulatively for over 5 million miles now, I want nothing to do with a manual transmission in my personal vehicles.
After messing with that cumulatively for over 5 million miles now, I want nothing to do with a manual transmission in my personal vehicles.
