Mixing oils

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Just get oil in sufficient quantities with all the same batch number like I do.
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I believe the problem that was had many years back with Quaker State involved a problem with MRV, and only residual oil from the previous oil change and low temperatures that were far from outlandish.
 
Great post Shannon... Warm area like yours.. it is ok to play "at home blender".

I will say in all seriousness that I have noticed that when temps get down to or below 5 degrees Fahrenheit... Things change.. my area has seen temps below 0 in a surprising number of the last winter's.. even has far down as -7°F in New Kent county just west of me... I pumped gas with temp that cold... Quite chilly. I have heard other cars running... And they are noticeably loud when it is down that cold... Temps in the low teens and up... I have not noticed that phenomenon. Just goes to show when it get closer to zero F things are going to be different. And that trend likely gets even steeper the farther down you go. At -25 F like it has gotten down to in the Northeast US like in Vermont and upstate NY... I bet it is a whole other deal. Or like this past winter with temps nearing -40 in Minnesota and Wisconsin...
 
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Need to brush up on the acronym stickie!!


Here's another blender who used to frequent the site

Originally Posted by bobbydavro
Hi

It's an interesting one. Certainly no guarantee of 0W being achieved but without knowing the oils it's difficult. Often PPDs are universal across an additive suppliers range. But if you had two oils with different DI, PPD and VII you might cause problems with used oil. Even if Ccs is ok for 0W

MRV can also run into problems when certain VMs are combined with other PPDs.

In my own car I will only top up with oils using the same additive system. (Diff grade can be ok if I'm desperate ) but I want to ensure no issues. (Eg silicates and sulphonate detergents mixing are not ideal either)
 
Sorry but I've mixed different brands and weights for years with no adverse effect. My diesel gets 10-30 winter and 15-40 summer, different brands. All may cars get whatever is on sale and different top up oils in between, including whatever weight I have on hand.
 
Originally Posted by noclutch
🤯
Need to brush up on the acronym stickie!!

Originally Posted by Shannow
Here's another blender who used to frequent the site

Originally Posted by bobbydavro
Hi

It's an interesting one. Certainly no guarantee of 0W being achieved but without knowing the oils it's difficult. Often PPDs are universal across an additive suppliers range. But if you had two oils with different DI, PPD and VII you might cause problems with used oil. Even if Ccs is ok for 0W

MRV can also run into problems when certain VMs are combined with other PPDs.

In my own car I will only top up with oils using the same additive system. (Diff grade can be ok if I'm desperate ) but I want to ensure no issues. (Eg silicates and sulphonate detergents mixing are not ideal either)





No Probs...in order of appearance
PPD - Pour Point Depressants...modify wax crystals so that they can't join together at low temperatures.
DI (Package) - Detergent Inhibitor Package
VII - Viscosity Index Improver
CCS - Cold Cranking Simulator (like HTHS, but at -25 to -40C)
MRV - Mini Rotary Viscometer - simulates the ability for the oil to get to the pump through the pickup tube
VM - Viscosity Modifiers
Originally Posted by D1dad
Sorry but I've mixed different brands and weights for years with no adverse effect. My diesel gets 10-30 winter and 15-40 summer, different brands. All may cars get whatever is on sale and different top up oils in between, including whatever weight I have on hand.

Originally Posted by D1dad
Sorry but I've mixed different brands and weights for years with no adverse effect. My diesel gets 10-30 winter and 15-40 summer, different brands. All may cars get whatever is on sale and different top up oils in between, including whatever weight I have on hand.


Basically the same as the SAE paper...if it's going to mess things up, it's probably at teh cold end of things.

The new performance standard on BITOG of "I did it for years and nothing blew up" is hard to replicate under SAE, ASTM, and OEM standards, so they have to resort to far more technical and standardised processes
 
I just changed the oil in my 240sx a couple days ago using a dastardly mix of leftovers... one quart of M1 0w-40, one quart PP Euro 5w-30, slightly less than one quart of QSUD 5W-30, and the rest Supertech 15w-40 from various bottles. Oh, and a Fram Ultra, because I dont mess around.

Expecting an explosion any day now. Actually I'm kind of hoping for one, I've been driving this old girl for 18+ years now and I might just be ready to move on. But no explosion is going to happen......
 
Originally Posted by quint
I just changed the oil in my 240sx a couple days ago using a dastardly mix of leftovers... one quart of M1 0w-40, one quart PP Euro 5w-30, slightly less than one quart of QSUD 5W-30, and the rest Supertech 15w-40 from various bottles. Oh, and a Fram Ultra, because I dont mess around.

Expecting an explosion any day now. Actually I'm kind of hoping for one, I've been driving this old girl for 18+ years now and I might just be ready to move on. But no explosion is going to happen......


Well at least the rest of us know your feet are firmly planted on Terra firma not in a dream world.
 
Don't worry about it. If it makes you feel better, drain it out and start over.

I've mixed brands and weights, on different cars, and never had a problem. If your engine fails, it won't be because of that 1 time you mixed 2 brands of oil.
 
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